Feeding a Vega Cylinder

[Cliff Seruntine]

I am buying a Vega Cylinder in the next couple weeks, soon as I can schedule a trip to pick it up from my friend. I have heard conflicting information about strings. Some say the old instruments are built stronger and can tolerate many modern strings. Others say only use light gauge strings. Presently, I like GHS Silk & Steel on my modern mandolin. These have a lighter tension. Will these do for a 1920ish Vega in good condition or should I go lighter still?

[pops1]

I don't remember the gauge of the silk and steel, to me silk and bronze sound better. GHS sells both. I would say at the heaviest 10-36 or lighter. These do not need heavier strings to sound good like a carved/arched top.

[Dave Bradford]

I think you should consider only using light strings to help reduce chances of top sinkage. I used Thomastik light strings on the ones I’ve owned in the past and was very satisfied with them.

[rcc56]

These fine mandolins were built for light strings.
If something goes wrong with one, the cylinder back makes it nearly impossible to safely disassemble the instrument.
Please use light strings.
You might be surprised how much sound they will put out.

[Jim Garber]

Heavier strings are good for old Gibsons but not for Vega cylinder backs. I agree with all above. Are you getting the 202 (mahogany and plainer one) that had no issues?

[Cliff Seruntine]

Heavier strings are good for old Gibsons but not for Vega cylinder backs. I agree with all above. Are you getting the 202 (mahogany and plainer one) that had no issues?

Yes, the 202. I've seen him play it at various music events. A lovely sounding instrument. Neck is straight and no top issues. In fact, it's all original and no repairs.

[Cliff Seruntine]

If something goes wrong with one, the cylinder back makes it nearly impossible to safely disassemble the instrument.

Do the backs run a risk of splitting if disassembled?

[Cliff Seruntine]

I don't remember the gauge of the silk and steel, to me silk and bronze sound better. GHS sells both. I would say at the heaviest 10-36 or lighter. These do not need heavier strings to sound good like a carved/arched top.

I'll pick up a couple packs of Silk & Bronze when I'm in the city to get the Vega. But I am very fond of the tone of Silk & Steel. I looked up their gauges tonight and they are the same gauge, so they should pull the same tension, I imagine. If so, I could use Silk & Steel or Silk & Bronze. However, d'Addario lights pull about 20% less tension than either Silk & Bronze or Steel.

[Dacraw54]

I prefer to use flatwound strings on my CB’s - cylinder backs. EFW74 are similar gauges to EJ74 but at less tension.

[August Watters]

These fine mandolins were built for light strings.
. . You might be surprised how much sound they will put out.

Yes -- with these old instruments you'll often get more sound with lighter strings. Instead of thinking about how much tension an instrument can safely take, I prefer to think in terms of finding the optimal tension. It's a matter of balance, and if the strings are pulling too hard they can dampen the sound.

[rcc56]

Do the backs run a risk of splitting if disassembled?

The neck block is quite large, and is radiused to accept the back. Getting a tool between the radiused back and the radiused neck block without causing all kinds of damage is highly risky, no matter how good you are. And the heel of the neck is in the way also, at least on some of them.

I have pulled the backs on a couple of old Gibsons, but they have a flat surface where the back meets the neck block. It is very touchy work. There is ALWAYS a danger of splitting. And the sides will spring out of shape when the back is removed.

Violins are built with future disassembly in mind. Mandolins and guitars are not. Pulling the back on a mandolin or guitar should be considered only as an option of last resort.