Changing Strings: How to leave before cutting the string

[OneChordTrick]

I found a video showing how to change strings on a guitar where they suggested pulling the string through the tuner post, measuring to the next post and making that the point where you cut the string.

What's the equivalent rule of thumb for the mandolin? As the posts are closer together on a mandolin the same method would seem to leave to little string to stop it slipping.

Also any tips for getting the strings to wind neatly so that the "coils" are one above the other?

Thanks!

[Ray(T)]

Personally, I would never cut strings to length before they were fully fitted. I simply rest the cutters on the top of the tuning post and snip off level.

As for fitting; I've spent many years threading the string through the hole, gripping it at the nut and pulling back for around two frets. I then induce a 90degree bend at the tuner and wind on. I have, however, changed in recent months following advice given here. I now fit the strings at the tailpiece, stretch them up to the tuner and wind them round for 2 or 3 turns and poke the free end through the hole before bringing them up to pitch. This method ensures that you have an appropriate number of turns on the post and those turns lie neatly.

[OneChordTrick]

Thanks Ray!

I found out the hard way not to cut before putting some tension on - the wound portion lost its tension and the string sounded really dead .

I'll try the pre-winding method next time.

[John Kelly]

I use the method Ray uses and find it works well. As you wind the string around the post make sure the coils rise up the string post, rather than wrap around themselves. This ensures that when you tuck the end through the hole in the string post the coils push the threaded end up tight against the post, helping to lock the string. 2 turns for the wound strings and 2.5 - 3 for the plain. Remember to give the strings a firm tug to tension the coils before you bring up to pitch. I use a battery-powered screwdriver with a perspex fitting I made to wind the strings; I find it gives me a very even pull on the strings and over the years I have managed to avoid overwinding! Great too for loosening off the old strings.

[Mandoplumb]

I lock the end under the string tune up to pitch then cut the excess, by locking under the string I don't have to wind even one full round. What is the advantage of two or three winds? My way I put the string thru the tuner first, then before I turn tuner I hook the end on tailpiece. This way I can keep enough tension on the string to keep on tailpiece while I lock and turn tuner. No need for putty, tape, or capo.

[Tobin]

I use the same method Ray(T) and John Kelly describe. Just hook the string on the tailpiece, pull it up into the bridge and nut slots, give it a couple wraps around the tuner post, pinch the winds with one hand to hold them in place while I fish the free end through the hole, tug on the free end to keep the tension while I release my pinch and turn the tuner to tighten it. I bring each string up to pitch and clip the end right where it exits the post hole (no more than 1/16" or so sticking out) before moving on to the next one.

As long as there are enough wraps, which you can control exactly with this method, there is no slippage. The reason I prefer this over any sort of locking method is because the strings are much easier to remove like this. There is no fumbling around with needle-nose pliers to un-kink the locking turns to remove them. And it takes the least number of turns of the tuner to bring up to pitch.

[OneChordTrick]

Thanks everyone I’m all ready for next time!

[MarkELynch]

Here is the string method described in the 1923 Gibson Service Handbook. Notice how the string is locked by the previous wrap. There is no need for multiple turns with this method although be careful that the e strings are pulling against the side of the post and not over the hole.

The secret to easy string removal is to cut the free end as close as possible to the post. This way only a small twist will free it. If you leave it long Tobin is right about needing needle nose pliers. One sixteenth is plenty, once the string is locked the free end does nothing anyway.

[Ray(T)]

I hate removing strings which have been locked on. The other problem is that, if the locking procedure does go wrong and it slips, what's left of the string is then too short to fit.

I have a set of locking tuners on a guitar and they're a dream. Poke the string through the hole, tighten the screw and tune the string.

[Hallmark498]

I lock, but found it better to use 3 fingers of slack halfway on the fret board. This allows at least 1 full loop around the string post and I tend to play more than I tune.

[pops1]

I lock the end under the string tune up to pitch then cut the excess, by locking under the string I don't have to wind even one full round. What is the advantage of two or three winds? My way I put the string thru the tuner first, then before I turn tuner I hook the end on tailpiece. This way I can keep enough tension on the string to keep on tailpiece while I lock and turn tuner. No need for putty, tape, or capo.

I have been prewinding for decades and have posted that procedure several times. To answer your question the windings around the post prevent the string from breaking because of the bend going thru the tuner. If you cross over as you said, and a lot of people do it, it binds the string from slipping, but in the world of knots it increases the possibility of cutting. I don't think I have ever seen it happen with a instrument string, but it would be a weak point in other materials. It is also easier to remove strings that have the winding around the post over the binding by the string. Well for me anyway, worst is going thru the post twice, UGH!!

[Dave Hanson]

Frank Fords method is good. Dave h

[Ivan Kelsall]

E & A strings,i cut them to length 2" past the string post. G & D strings,i cut to 1 1/4" past the string post. I then poke 'em through the hole so that they stick out 1/4" on the other side,bend them back by 90 deg.,& wind them on while holding the strings into the nut slots to get the correct angle. I try to make sure that all the windings are under the tag end of the string, & that the last winding is at the bottom to give the correct angle to the nut. I've done the same on banjo for 54 years,& i've never had a string come off yet on any instrument - banjo,mandolin or guitar. They don't 'slip' either.

I've only had one instrument where the strings had been 'tied on'. My once owned Weber 'Beartooth' "A" style oval hole mandolin arrived with E75's on it - tied on !. I had to use wire cutters & pliers to get the darned things off,
Ivan

[Mandoplumb]

I have been prewinding for decades and have posted that procedure several times. To answer your question the windings around the post prevent the string from breaking because of the bend going thru the tuner. If you cross over as you said, and a lot of people do it, it binds the string from slipping, but in the world of knots it increases the possibility of cutting. I don't think I have ever seen it happen with a instrument string, but it would be a weak point in other materials. It is also easier to remove strings that have the winding around the post over the binding by the string. Well for me anyway, worst is going thru the post twice, UGH!!

I've used this locking method for 30 years and I can't say I've never broke one at that point but it has been very few if any. Yes taking them off requires a needle nose plyers or you may inject yourself but in my opinion that is less trouble and requires less wirty dords, tape, putty and capos than any other way. YMMV

[pops1]

I use no tape, putty or capo. Simply hook the string and while pulling tight wrap the tuner the appropriate number of times and put the end of the string thru the hole on top of the winds. It is easy, the quickest way I have found, and needs no peg winder as the string is not so loose to begin with. It also comes off quick and easy for string changes with no tools or fooling around. We each have our own way, this is mine.

[Paul Busman]

I use no tape, putty or capo. Simply hook the string and while pulling tight wrap the tuner the appropriate number of times and put the end of the string thru the hole on top of the winds. It is easy, the quickest way I have found, and needs no peg winder as the string is not so loose to begin with. It also comes off quick and easy for string changes with no tools or fooling around. We each have our own way, this is mine.

I was going to suggest the same thing. This topic comes up often, and everyone chimes in with more or less complicated methods for figuring out how much extra string to leave, and how to keep the string from coming off the tailpiece during the change. This method is ridiculously easy, with no guesswork or extra doodads.It's fast too.
I keep saying I want to make a video of the method, but somehow never get around to it.

[Ky Slim]

I lock the end under the string tune up to pitch then cut the excess, by locking under the string I don't have to wind even one full round. What is the advantage of two or three winds? My way I put the string thru the tuner first, then before I turn tuner I hook the end on tailpiece. This way I can keep enough tension on the string to keep on tailpiece while I lock and turn tuner. No need for putty, tape, or capo.

The advantage of 2 or 3 winds down the post is that it pulls the string down off the nut slot. Sometimes the nearest Gs or Es might rattle in the nut slot if they are riding high on the post. Not an issue with most mandolins because of the downward angle of the headstock.


I haven't tried prewinding the strings yet but will next change. I do like to lock the string back under like you said. No slips.