Re: Repair of chip in sunburst
Originally Posted by
HoGo
I would suggest using clear nitro for base and tinted shellac for color. Viloin restorers use shellac (or spirit varnish) as it is very easy to remove if one goes too far with quick wipe of q-tip and alcohol without disturbing the lacquer underneath. You should test that as well on your samples just in case... One never nows how these jobs will go.
Thanks! I like that suggestion!
When faced with this kind of situation the prospect (or even the possibility) of reversibility is borderline precious. Likewise I can stain shellac as easily as nitro lacquer with the TransTints. By next Tuesday I should have TransTint stains in two shades of amber, couple shades of light brown and orange.
My shellac is a fairly new can of Zinsser "Bulls eye" clear. It is named "clear" but the actual product is a milky color -- maybe I should also consider buying flakes and mixing my own clear shellac?
Another thought is I might add a couple of layers of base clear nitro just to provide extra protection from any pigments leaking into the wood?
So , after reading your post I now have a plan.
I sanded down a small (0.5 in X 6 in X 10 in) panel of Sitka that was left from a mandolin project and I will finish it like I think Gibson might have done my Sam Bush -- i.e. a thin coat of clear shellac, then the color (dye), then multiple coats of clear nitro lacquer.
This should provide a simple mono color simulation of my top board. When this is cured up I can "damage" it with a dings like my mandolin.
Then I can see how well I can handle an "easy" drop fill -- using the plan you supplied, (lacquer, stained shellac and lacquer) where the color of that I am trying to match is "known".
If I can't fix that simple case then I know I can't fix the mandolin ding. If I can fix it we'll see about the next step.
For sure I am going to learn something here! LOL
Bernie
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Due to current budgetary restrictions the light at the end of the tunnel has been turned off -- sorry about the inconvenience.
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