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Thread: Mandolin Bridge/Neck Problem

  1. #1
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    Default Mandolin Bridge/Neck Problem

    I couldn't find anywhere else that this problem was covered, so here it is.
    I recently received a neglected mandolin from a friend who wasn't getting around to it. I've cleaned it up and it looks like it's in fairly good shape (not that I would know for sure - it's my first time working on a mandolin). The only missing piece is a bridge. In researching bridges, I came to the conclusion that something is wrong with the setup of the neck.
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    As you can see in the photo, a straightedge on the frets pretty much touches the soundboard at the highest point of curvature, while my impression is that it should be at least 1/2" off. You can also see a glue line on the neck near where it joins the body - apparently the neck was re-glued by the person before my friend and I'm guessing that they may have inadvertently changed the neck angle.
    So, what should I do with it? Am I correct in thinking that the neck probably needs to be removed and adjusted in order to result in a usable action, or am I missing something? If I need to take the neck off and adjust the angle, how should I go about doing it?

  2. #2
    Registered User sblock's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mandolin Bridge/Neck Problem

    Yes, the neck is at the wrong angle. It might not be worthwhile to get this repaired if it is a low end instrument (what is it?), because a repair like that can run into some money.

    More pix, and some close-ups of the joint, would give the experts here more to go on.

  3. #3
    Registered User Charles E.'s Avatar
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    Default Re: Mandolin Bridge/Neck Problem

    It looks a Framus or similar model. Probably needs a neck reset that would exceed the value of the mandolin.
    Charley

    A bunch of stuff with four strings

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Mandolin Bridge/Neck Problem

    Quote Originally Posted by electromagnet View Post
    ... a straightedge on the frets pretty much touches the soundboard at the highest point of curvature ...
    Yeah but, there's a bit of relief built into the neck, meaning that the middle-ish frets don't actually touch the straightedge, so that there could be enough room to insert a playable solid bridge at the top of the arch. Remember that a 1/4" bridge should give you 1/8" clearance (over whatever you currently have) at the 12th fret - not too terrible.

    At worst, you'll get a chance to hear what it sounds like & evaluate whether a full-out fix is worth the effort, a better option than doing the full fix just to find that it sounds mediocre. At best, a solid bridge might be all it needs to be playable. (I'm assuming, like you, that there is inadequate clearance for an adjustable bridge, no matter what.)
    - Ed

    "Then one day we weren't as young as before
    Our mistakes weren't quite so easy to undo
    But by all those roads, my friend, we've travelled down
    I'm a better man for just the knowin' of you."
    - Ian Tyson

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    Default Re: Mandolin Bridge/Neck Problem

    Thanks for the suggestions, everyone.
    I have no idea what model or company it is; I can't find anything other than a "MADE IN GERMANY" on the tailpiece, and I have no previous experience with mandolins that would help with identification. See if you can guess more confidently from the front view.
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    I wasn't very clear on this in the original post, but I intend to do all the necessary work on it myself, so money for a professional isn't really an issue. Here's a close-up of the glue joint on the neck.
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    I might try a really low solid bridge to see what it's like. In the mean time, any suggestions for how to remove the neck?

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    Registered User William Smith's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mandolin Bridge/Neck Problem

    Yes a neck set is needed, You can take the fret out where neck joins the body and drill down and steam it out, there are special tools required for this though and a bit more know how., Looks like your heal has been busted and re glued at some point

  8. #7
    Registered User sunburst's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mandolin Bridge/Neck Problem

    Quote Originally Posted by bluegrasser78 View Post
    ...You can take the fret out where neck joins the body and drill down and steam it out...
    Have you had one of these apart to see what the neck joint is? That's the only way I would know how to proceed removing the neck from the body, and I haven't had one of these apart, so...

  9. #8
    Moderator MikeEdgerton's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mandolin Bridge/Neck Problem

    It's one of these. It's either a Hofner or a Framus. Both were made in Germany. They aren't real valuable and yours does have some issues.
    "It's comparable to playing a cheese slicer."
    --M. Stillion

    "Bargain instruments are no bargains if you can't play them"
    --J. Garber

  10. #9
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    Default Re: Mandolin Bridge/Neck Problem

    If neck is stable, I'd insert a wedge between the fingerboard and the neck's top surface. Its not pretty but it can give you a somewhat playable instrument. Is that run out glue we see epoxy? if so, then neck removal maybe difficult.
    -Newtonamic

  11. #10
    I may be old but I'm ugly billhay4's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mandolin Bridge/Neck Problem

    Looks like the neck is broken from the heel to me. I would suggest the neck needs to come off, and like John says, that may be simple or difficult depending. I would take the fretboard off so I could look at the neck join. Should be easy enough to do with heat and a putty knife. Try not to break it, or you'll get to learn another aspect of instrument repair.
    If it's a simple tendon or dovetail, you'll need heat and possible steam. The glue will be the game changer. If the heel cap is part of the back, that will be a difficult area and require care.
    Once the neck is off, you'll have to decide how to proceed based on the damage to the old neck and the join. You may need shims. You may need to fill and re-build the joint. You may need to just re-glue the neck to the heel and re-install. You'll find out.
    Bill
    IM(NS)HO

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    Default Re: Mandolin Bridge/Neck Problem

    I'm back to report how it turned out.
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    As user mandrian found on a very similar instrument, the tailpiece was several millimetres off centre. I moved it and it still covers the misplaced screw-holes, so that's good.

    I decided to take Ed Hanrahan's advice and build a low solid bridge to see how it sounds. With new strings that have been given some time to settle in, I've decided that it's not worthwhile to try to reset the neck. It has a strangely muted tone and poor sustain. My impression is that this could be partly due to insufficient pressure on the bridge because of how low it is, but I don't think a reset neck and higher bridge would make it a good enough instrument for a serious player. It might be good enough for me to learn on, though!

    Thanks again for all the advice.

  13. #12
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    Default Re: Mandolin Bridge/Neck Problem

    Quote Originally Posted by electromagnet View Post
    ... strangely muted tone and poor sustain. ... could be partly due to insufficient pressure on the bridge ...
    Good chance that it's mostly an over-built top. If Mike's suspicion is accurate, my long-held view of Framus instruments, in general, is that they'd rather utilize machine bolts & hot rivets than resort to something so dainty as, ya know, glue and fine woodworking. That might work on a solid-body bass for the Stones, but on acoustic not so much.

    OTOH, you could just add a humbucker, crank up the Marshall stack, and head for the stadium!
    - Ed

    "Then one day we weren't as young as before
    Our mistakes weren't quite so easy to undo
    But by all those roads, my friend, we've travelled down
    I'm a better man for just the knowin' of you."
    - Ian Tyson

  14. #13
    Mediocre but OK with that Paul Busman's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mandolin Bridge/Neck Problem

    It's a cool wall hanger in any event. Or, you could make a lamp:

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    For wooden musical fun that doesn't involve strumming, check out:
    www.busmanwhistles.com
    Handcrafted pennywhistles in exotic hardwoods.

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