Stiff now though not always Waverly's...so I don't think it is an install issue.
Typical sticking Waverly then all of a sudden a release..of course worse offender is on the pesky A string.
Should I try tri-flow?
Other suggestions
Stiff now though not always Waverly's...so I don't think it is an install issue.
Typical sticking Waverly then all of a sudden a release..of course worse offender is on the pesky A string.
Should I try tri-flow?
Other suggestions
If you tighten a string without effect, then it moves too much, that is usually a result of the string not moving through the nut slot very well. A little graphite (pencil lead) in the slot might help.
Yes, the description of "sticking then a sudden release" sounds like a classic nut slot problem. Try graphite in the slot as mentioned above, but if it's badly cut or badly worn nut slot, then it may need more attention. Either a replacement, or building up/cutting the slots for a better fit.
If you're feeling the sticking & sudden release, rather than just noticing that from the pitch of the string, then it is indeed the tuners.
I've experienced that many times. Yes, a little Tri-flow will usually help. That's my experience.
Loosen the string a little, apply Tri-flow, then turn the tuner button both ways a half turn or so a few times. Then retune to pitch.
Otherwise, check the nut as previously advised.
Phil
“Sharps/Flats” ≠ “Accidentals”
I agree with the comments above. What you're describing sounds like a fairly common nut slot issue. M.O.P. nuts are especially prone to these problems. The unwound strings especially, tend to corrode (rust/oxidize) in m.o.p. nut slots where as bone has a natural lubricity to it. As mentioned, a little graphite powder in the slot would be the first thing to try and may correct the problem if it is because of string corrosion. Hardware or automotive parts stores will carry little squeeze tubes of powdered graphite that is perfect for applying small amounts where you need it.
You can still have problems with bone if the slot is not properly cut. The slot should have some angle back toward the tuning machines but only enough to create the proper string break angle over the front edge of the nut. I shoot for about 5 degrees then slightly round over the back end of the slot to act as a smooth "ramp".
The slot should have a round bottom and definitely not a "V" as that could pinch the string.
The slot should ideally be a few thou' wider than the string gauge being used. Too narrow and it could pinch the string, too wide and it will be unnecessarily sloppy which could cause string buzzing.
Easy on the powdered graphite. It can get EVERYWHERE fast. I have a trick that has worked great for me: Get a business card. rub a number 2 pencil on the long edge until it collects a quantity of graphite. slowly run the card edge in the nut slot. transfers just enough graphite every time.
I'd suggest Tri-Flow, available at bicycle shops (perhaps at hardware stores as well).
Goes on wet, then dries.
NB, there is a dry* and a 'wet' Triflow, read the label..
* volatile vehicle evaporates, quickly, leaving the solids, which include Teflon plastic.
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