Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Binding questions

  1. #1
    Registered User
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    East Tennessee
    Posts
    100

    Default Binding questions

    I am currently working on my 9th octave mandolin & have always used wood bindings. When I have used ebony or other dark colored wood for bindings, it looked OK (to me) to use butt joints. Lighter colored bindings however seem to really require mitered joints. I mitered the bindings on my last build, but I didn't feel very comfortable with the process. The result was OK (IMO). but it felt like it could just as easily have screwed up. So my first question is: Are there any tricks to make the process more reliable?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	P_20171014_113222.jpg 
Views:	145 
Size:	272.0 KB 
ID:	161497Click image for larger version. 

Name:	P_20171014_113205.jpg 
Views:	146 
Size:	290.4 KB 
ID:	161498

    Secondly, I just started on the bindings on OM #9 & ran into difficulty right away. I cut the miter on the first piece & cut it to length (butt joint at the tail piece). Then I spread Titebond in the channel & on the binding piece. Immediately I started positioning & taping the binding in the channel. I had some difficulty positioning the mitered end exactly as I wanted it. Finally I succeeded & then continued taping the binding in the channel. But by the time I got around to the tail end, the glue had already dried there. I have always had to work quickly when gluing bindings, but I have never encountered that problem. With butt joints I just let the bindings run past the end & trim then afterward.

    At any rate, I pulled the binding off & cleaned the channel with a vinegar & water solution. The question here is how can I be sure that the channel is clean enough to allow a new piece of binding to adhere?

    I considered taping the bindings in place w/o glue & then wicking ca glue in. I have used that technique on other things before, but am not sure that it would work well enough here.

    I welcome any thoughts or suggestions here.

    Earl Tyler

    I apologize for the quality of the photos; I hope they convey the intended message.

  2. #2
    Registered User
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    East Tennessee
    Posts
    100

    Default Re: Binding questions

    Never mind; I got it figured out. Please forgive my frustrated ramblings.

    Earl

  3. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Earl For This Useful Post:

    hanksunburst 

  4. #3
    Registered User
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    East Tennessee
    Posts
    100

    Default Re: Binding questions

    Thanks, John, for your acknowledgement; I do appreciate it.

    Part of what I figured out is that my problem with glue drying before I got the binding all taped in the channel is due to the fact that this is my first carved top (& back) OM. All of my previous instruments have been flat tops. I finally realized that with flat tops (relatively thin tops), most of the binding channel is cut into the side. With carved tops (much thicker edges), however, most of the channel is in the edge of the top (or back) plate. What caused the glue to dry faster than I had previously experienced was the fact that the end grain of the top plate at the tail end absorbs moisture from the glue much more quickly than the grain of the sides in my previous builds. This problem was exacerbated by the fact that I started taping the binding at the neck end in order to get the miter aligned properly. This allowed more time for the glue to be absorbed at the tail end. So the solution is to put more glue on the tail end of the channel & work faster. Also I trust that more practice & experience will help.

    As I mentioned, I have been using Titebond. I have been using it for nearly 50 years & hesitate to change since I am so familiar with it. But I hear (see?) the virtues of hot hide glue extolled here frequently, so I am becoming more receptive to the notion of change. For the application discussed here (wood binding attachment) my guess that hhg would have the same problem as the Titebond, perhaps worse because of the reduced "open time". Is this correct?

  5. #4
    Registered User tonydxn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Mansfield UK
    Posts
    345

    Default Re: Binding questions

    Is there a reason why you have to glue the whole channel in one go? Can't you just do a few inches at a time and tape it as you go? (I'll leave others to talk about HHG.)
    Last edited by tonydxn; Oct-15-2017 at 5:01pm.

  6. The following members say thank you to tonydxn for this post:

    Earl 

  7. #5
    Registered User
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    East Tennessee
    Posts
    100

    Default Re: Binding questions

    Quote Originally Posted by tonydxn View Post
    Is there a reason why you have to glue the whole channel in one go? Can't you just do a few inches at a time and tape it as you go? (I'll leave others to talk about HHG.)
    Actually I did use a version of this method. I glued half at a time.

    Earl

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •