I'm looking for a wood for a custom mandolin that is both warm and good for ITM. I've heard that both cedar and redwood work well, but I'm interested to see what others here say. Thank you!
I'm looking for a wood for a custom mandolin that is both warm and good for ITM. I've heard that both cedar and redwood work well, but I'm interested to see what others here say. Thank you!
This is a very open-ended topic, because you're going to get people who think that a "Celtic" mandolin should be something played by the Planxty band in the 60's, or a contemporary player who favors vintage Gibson A styles, or those who feel the kind of Gibson-derived F-style mandolins work fine for this music.
Bottom line: they all work fine, and the wood doesn't matter that much. Irish and Scottish music can be played on any mandolin. This music is much more about the skill of the player, and the knowledge of the music, than what you're playing.
My mandolin is a Czech made (Lebeda) copy of a classic Gibson F-style mandolin, with traditional maple back and sides, and a very non-traditional Redwood top. Don't read too much into that, because it's very stiff Redwood and probably acts more like Spruce than some Redwood or Cedar tops. I've heard Spruce and Cedar-topped mandolins that sound "warmer," but I'm happy with this one because it has a nice loud volume and punch, and I can be heard in Irish and Scottish sessions when it's my turn to start a tune set.
I have a Paul Shippey with rosewood back and sides and sitka top, mandolins don't come much warmer sounding, it also has more bass response than most mandolins.
Dave H
Eastman 615 mandola
2011 Weber Bitteroot A5
2012 Weber Bitteroot F5
Eastman MD 915V
Gibson F9
2016 Capek ' Bob ' standard scale tenor banjo
Ibanez Artist 5 string
2001 Paul Shippey oval hole
you might find this interesting
http://www.theacousticmusicco.co.uk/...reriment-.html
i have an early Paul Shippey cherry A5 which sounds great also
I play a spruce and rosewood Taran Springwell, a spruce and walnut Nava 2-point and a National RM-1 for trad music, depending on the setting, mix of other instruments and volume I need. All sound great, but in different ways.
What Richard said - depending on the setting...volume I need. The mandolin I love to play with a few friends or the mandolin I like if playing with microphones or the mandolin I take to a large session are very different.
John Liestman -
Eye new ewe wood lye kit!
I had Max Girouard build a custom mandola earlier this year for use in Irish trad and old time fiddle tunes (what I call Irish trad with an American accent). Over a few weeks, last December, we sent emails back and forth with me describing, in as much detail as I could, the music we played (my wife's really the 'dola player), how the instrument would be used (counter melody and partial chords, mostly) and the settings it would be used in. After that I left wood choice up to Max on the basis that he knew better than I ever could how to build the instrument and also that he knew his woodpile. The instrument arrived mid May and was everything we'd asked for sound and tone wise. Beautiful fat, warm, mellow tone. What the woods are don't really matter - I'd total faith in the builder to use whatever he wanted/needed to create the sound. Since you asked, though, it's Western Red Cedar and big leaf maple ... BUT ... I play a Girouard A5 mandolin ... it's Adirondack and European maple. Similar warm, mellow tone. Both instruments more than hold their own in pub sessions along the West coast of Clare in Ireland - not a place for a faint hearted player or instrument.
So I suppose my point is - if you have faith in your builder and can well describe or illustrate the tones you're after, I'd suggest leaving wood choices to them.
Correct. Choosing woods first is putting the cart before the horse. Try as many mandolins as you can, go to sessions to hear them in context, go online and listen to sound samples. You'll end up with a shortlist of makers. Email them for prices and waiting times. This will reduce the list further. Then decide from the ones who are left.
Nigel
http://www.nkforsterguitars.com/instruments/mandolin/
Luthier type is much more important that wood type.
Bill
IM(NS)HO
I'm also of the school of thought that says that tone has a lot more to do with the luthier, style, and construction of the instrument than the choice of wood. Strings and picks enter into the equation too. I'd suggest you visit a lot of luthiers' websites and listen to sound clips to find a luthier that you like and can afford.Go to different sessions too and listen to other players' instruments.
If you're not totally wedded to the idea of having a custom instrument made to order, check out the classified ads.
You might also want to post this question on the general mandolin discussion thread.
For wooden musical fun that doesn't involve strumming, check out:
www.busmanwhistles.com
Handcrafted pennywhistles in exotic hardwoods.
Bookmarks