Gibson serial number help please

[Davey]

I've just bought a late 1930's wide body A1 Mandolin and the FON or serial number visible through the f hole appears to be 8567 (rubber stamped) followed by a large stamped "C" and in pencil "3". so that's 8567 C 3.

I have the big green book but can't really figure it out. Any ideas ?

[William Smith]

I've just bought a late 1930's wide body A1 Mandolin and the FON or serial number visible through the f hole appears to be 8567 (rubber stamped) followed by a large stamped "C" and in pencil "3". so that's 8567 C 3.

I have the big green book but can't really figure it out. Any ideas ?

Well C is usually for 1937? but your # is too high and would put it in the early 30's and thats not right so it's pry a 37? FON#8567 puts it at a L-0 guitar and thats not right so are you sure about the #? even if that was the serial # thats wrong cause it would put it early 30's and well if its a wide bell shaped body thats wrong, I'd say its a 37?
How about some photos?

[Davey]

It's a bit faint, I'll try some more photos in a while, maybe I can just catch it at the right angle. [ATTACH=CONFIG]159735[/ATTACH]

[Davey]

Here's another one.

[William Smith]

Here's another one.

Boy those old faded FON#'s are sure hard to read! If thats a C I'd say its a 37 in my opinion, Hard for me to make out with my bad eyeballs

[pops1]

Looks to me like 3567 C. I think the 8 that the OP saw is a 3. It is hard to see.

[Hendrik Ahrend]

To me it reads like 867 C with a blurred 8 after a failed attempt; thus 1937.

[pops1]

To me it reads like 867 C with a blurred 8 after a failed attempt; thus 1937.

Henry, I think you are right. I was able to blow it up when earlier it didn't seem to want to enlarge.

[Jess L.]

Photoshop-enhanced versions of the two pics above, but with different treatments, click or tap each of them several times until the pics are big enough to see:






Based on that, I'm going with "3567 C 3". I'd bet money on that first 3, and the 6. Not so sure about the 5 and 7 but they seem likely candidates.

EDITED TO ADD:
I just checked those same enhanced pics, but this time using my phone to view this post. On the phone, that first 3 looks like it could be an 8, there's almost a shadow of the rest of the 8. So now I'm not sure again. Maybe I need to calibrate my monitor's gamma again or something, this particular PC screen is *supposed* to get 98% SRGB which is better than the average PC screen, but who knows. Oh well. I'm always confused when it comes to computers and this is no exception.

(Clearly, I'm obviously not a pro at Photoshop tinkering. A pro probably would have had those numbers deciphered fairly quickly. Anyway, as to why the colors changed, I was playing around with the Channel Mixer and also separate adjustments to individual RGB channels in Levels as well as Curves, and probably some other menu items I don't even remember, I just kept clicking stuff and moving sliders around until I could see the numbers better, my usual "monkeys at the typewriter" technique.)

[Jeff Mando]

Wide body was only available 1937-40. Number looks like a C. Gotta be a 1937.

[William Smith]

Wide body was only available 1937-40. Number looks like a C. Gotta be a 1937.

Yeh my first post thats the year I thought, boy after all them years the ink sure does fade!

[Davey]

Here's a scan of the Catalogue it first appeared in. http://acousticmusic.wpengine.com/wp...37-Catalog.pdf

Folks in general don't seem to like this Mandolin, but it's got some good points. It's very easy to play and the truss rod has done a fine job. It's comfortable to hold as you can lean on it. The sound is slightly underwhelming but pretty nice for Traditional folk tunes. The fretboard is also easy to get around. I prefer the V neck of my A50 but it's a fat little C section which isn't bad. I even like the frilly headstock. My 1937 Guitar (L-00) is a beauty and I'm pleased to think they were on the bench at the same time.

[William Smith]

Nothing wrong with your mandolin Davey, I've owned a bunch of these over the years, I had one wide sunburst bodied A-50 from 38 and it was a killer! Played like butter, had great volume, and super tone! I should've kept it but well when ya don't have much cash and you want something else, stuff has to go. I'm actually looking for some of these wide bodied A models for some projects! I have an add placedin the cassifieds but no one has responded yet? I don't get that cause they aint real valuable? I want to make em better with some modifications, It can be done with a bit of know how! With some not so simple work these can turn out fantastic as they already have a long scale. Plus there are tons of variations with the wide bodied sunburst A-50's such as different peghead inlays "I've seen em/owned em with flowerpots, fluer-de-lis,even the F-7 style urn" The wide bodied A-1's are all the same, well I never seen one that was different, but they have the pedigree with red spruce top, maple back and sides. And I personally love the feel of the rounded neck of these, not a fan of V-necks! Even with the hogwood necks they still have potential for what I'm going to try and do to one. If I can find one for a deal, this winter I'm going to do the mods and I think people will be surprised on what potential these wide bodies have! So if anyone has one that they'll part with shoot me an email/or answer my add please. I'll take beat up ones, that don't bother me and most all have the treble F-hole crack running from top of F-hole to the edge of body, some have it on the bass side but mostly on the treble side,also the pickguards usually total the finish on the treble side from the gas from that old celluloid breaking down. Its the celluloid from the 30's cause I've never seen it on any from the 20's? They must've had a different formula in the 30's to make the guards? If I can find one to do the mods. I'll try and post a step by step of the procedure. Happy picking!

[pops1]

bluegrasser78, I'll be looking forward to the procedure. Good luck on the search.

[Jeff Mando]

I've owned a bunch of these over the years, I want to make em better with some modifications, It can be done with a bit of know how! Even with the hogwood necks they still have potential for what I'm going to try and do to one. If I can find one for a deal, this winter I'm going to do the mods and I think people will be surprised on what potential these wide bodies have! If I can find one to do the mods. I'll try and post a step by step of the procedure. !

I nominate bluegrasser78 for the modifiers Hall of Fame!

[William Smith]

I nominate bluegrasser78 for the modifiers Hall of Fame!

Thanks buddy, It sure is fun reworking these old Gibson's and it sure does make em sound better with some work, Now I feel bad that I let all mine go years ago "I had 5 or 6 of these wide bodied A-50's" so thats a bummer for what I have planned! So I'm looking for a wide bodied plain jane A-1's or the fancy wide bodied bell shaped sunburst A-50 with 7 "Nick Lucus"fretboard inlays! Damage is ok cause they need taken apart anyway so if anyone knows where I can get some on the cheap,please let me know and then I'll do step by step photos of what I'll be doing on here! I think a lot of you guys will like the procedure "sounds like Dr.quack quack stuff" There are for sure better modifiers than me like Mr. Randy Wood but not many people mess with the A models and I don't think I ever heard of anyone doing a wide bodied A from the late 30's before? But these already have a kool pedigree such as old wood, red spruce top,maple back and sides, long hogwood neck, maple would be better but I think these models have a hell of a comfy neck to start with! And the 30's are my favorite period anyway for some odd reason!
Well wish me luck on finding some of these mandolins on the cheap and email me or answer my wanted ad I have posted here on the cafe PLEASE! Thanks fellow mando geeks, hell I know I'm one for sure

[Jeff Mando]

As the guitar guys like to say -- old wood is good wood!

[Capt. E]

The number is not a serial number, but a factory order number. Yes, C is for 1937. For a lot of Gibson info see this website: http://www.guitarhq.com/gibson.html


Here is the some of the detail about factory order numbers:

Gibson Factory Order Numbers, 1902 to 1945 - Overview.

The Factory Order Number (FON) consists of a 3, 4 or 5 digit batch number followed by a 1 or 2 digit sequence number (usually from 1 to 40, but there were some double or triple batches where the numbers were higher). The following are a summary of FONs as documented by Joe Spann in his great book of Gibson FON numbers.

Years Batch Number Range
----- ------------------
1902-1916 1 thru 3650
1917-1923 11000 thru 12000
1924-1925 11000A thru 11250A ("A" suffix used)
1925-1931 8000 thru 9999
1931-1933 1 thru 890 (with some isolated higher numbers)
1934 1 thru 1500 (with some isolated higher numbers)
1935 1A thru 1520A (most with "A" suffix and some isolated higher numbers)
1936 1B thru 1100B (most with "B" suffix and some isolated higher numbers)
1937 1C thru 1400C (most with "C" suffix and some isolated higher numbers)
1938 1d thru 1000d (most with "D" suffix and some isolated higher numbers)
1939 1E thru 980E (most with "E" suffix and some isolated higher numbers)
1940-1945 1 thru 7900 (some with letter suffix or prefix, some with neither)