Mandolin Upgrade Advice

[sbanjoman]

Hey Cafe!! Long time lurker first time poster here. I'm looking for advice as to what mandolin I should upgrade too. I currently play a Michael Kelly Festival F-style, and I'm thinking about upgrading to another F-style. I really like the Michael Kelly, but the chop and tone I'm getting from it just isn't getting things done for me lately. I want something that's a little more woody. My budget is around $1000, do I need to raise it a little to make a meaningful jump from the Michael Kelly? The only mando I've played in my price range lately that I'm considering is an Eastman 515. Thoughts on that? Any other models I should look into? I'd also like to add that I don't have a ton of shops with a lot of mandolins around me so I can't really go out and play a ton of models. Nashville is about five hours away, so I might have to drive down there. Thanks!! (I primarily play bluegrass btw)

[Atlanta Mando Mike]

I would wait and save a little more. If you can get to the 2000-2500 range then you have what I consider the start of some used, no frills but quality F5 choices. Things like a Silverangel, a Ratliff, a Gibson F9, a lower level Northfield and so on. Really, most good F5's start in the 3-4k range but there are some good lower cost options out there for sure if you are patient.

[jones]

Plug here for the MD515. I have one and have had many better players than me compliment the instrument. GREAT value at under $1K.

[Capt. E]

I agree you should think more than $1000. The "standard" step-up in my mind after the level of instrument you own is something like a Kentucky KM 1000 which these days sells for about $1440 new. I see them used for about $1000 - $1200. The Eastman equivalent would be about $100 cheaper - the MD615.
If you could find your way up to $3000 or so, your choice of quality instruments expands a good deal...a Gibson F9, a Northfield NF-F5S, even a lightly used Collins MF or a Weber Gallatin.
Take a look at my local shop, www.fiddlersgreenmusicship.com They conveniently arrange their mandolins they have in stock by price. That might help you make your decision.

[Folkmusician.com]

I would highly recommend an Eastman and being you have already played a 515 and liked it, that sounds like the best bet until you do a significant jump up in price.

[Northwest Steve]

in my two 2 1/2 years of playing mandolin I have had several mandolins pass through my hands. I owned a Kentucky 1050 that was great. I had a teacher that played a Gilchrist and in the middle of my fist lesson stopped took my mandolin played it then looked at the label, he could not believe an import could sound like that. It sounded better than any Eastman I have heard and there are some that I really liked. There is a recent one in the classifieds (NFI) and if you could swing it I think you would be VERY happy.

https://www.mandolincafe.com/ads/111263#111263

[Br1ck]

I have a MK Festival. Have you made sure it is playing up to it's potential? The bridge on mine was not well fitted, the frets needed a ton of leveling, and the nut was plastic. After much tweaking, I now play on Eastmans and Kentuckys and do not hear a significant upgrade. Now a used Kentucky master built will yeald a decent improvement, and $1200 will get you a really much better A style, but you need better than $2000 or so to find an F style comparable, and really more like $2500.

My Silverangel A is leaps and bounds better than my MK, but the MK gets a ton of playing time.

[dhergert]

Yea, I agree with Br1ck on getting the most from your MK before jumping into the deep end of the MAS pool... After being massaged in a number of ways, my MKLFSTB compares well in tone and volume to my F-9. Maybe not as woody and complex in tone, but impressively close, close enough that I consider it as a valued backup for my F-9.

Aside from the setup and tweaking that Br1ck mentioned above, are you using a ToneGard or other methods to separate your body from the mandolin? What strings are you using? What kind of pick?

The MK Festival has most of the standard tone related design appointments with the notable exception of the poly finish, which at least in my personal opinion may or may not make much difference in the under $1K price range (and maybe even in the under $2K range). So its potential for pretty satisfying tone and chop is in place and waiting to be exploited.

Ultimately though, if you're convinced you're ready to dive in, please do some live, in person comparisons with other candidates and with your old MK in hand. That way you'll really know what your new money is going for.

[Kris N]

Jumping in to say I'm another fan of the Eastman 515. The build, quality, sound and play-ability is excellent for a $1000 instrument. Then again, it's what I own and I'm a bit biased. In my opinion, I would call the Eastman a step up from your MK. You will notice a major difference.

Would I have bought a $2000+ mandolin? You bet! However, I couldn't afford much more than the Eastman (and the wife was already balking at the price). It was the best of all worlds.

As each of the others have said, definitely take several for a spin before taking the plunge. Take your time!

[Charlie Bernstein]

Are you absolutely positive that you need a scroll?

[Mike Arakelian]

The Eastman 515 is a good mandolin at its price point. If you can do without the scroll, a used Flatiron Performer A should be in your price range...a very good mandolin that will be a significant improvement to your MK. They pop up in the classifieds from time to time and are worth checking out.

[multidon]

Let me join the chorus here. The Eastman 515 would be a definite BIG step up from your Michael Kelly! We are talking a mass produced factory instrument here versus a small workshop-make mandolin made with mostly hand tools. Lots of "soul" goes into Eastman instruments I think. I've never owned one (Weber fan here) but I've played quite a few. Very nice instruments for the money. At 999 I don't think you'd be sorry.

The new 700 series Kentucky instruments are in the same price range but I haven't played those yet so I can't comment.

I think the Ratliff "Country Boy" model represents a good value in a USA made instrument. 1775 at Elderly. Howard Morris has a lot of fans here and he makes a USA made F style for around 1400 I think? But no adjustable truss rod. Problem? maybe, maybe not.

[Mandoplumb]

Come on guys. You can't talk him out of another mandolin MAS has raised it's ugly head. Best advice try to find something in your budget used, then when MAS strikes again and you " have" to upgrade further you can sell and not lose your a##

[JeffD]

I did not know there was a standard step.

[sbanjoman]

It's interesting you bring up the ToneGard because I've been thinking about getting one, I just struggle with dropping $75 for that thing. Can't decide if it's worth the money. Do you happen to know if any cheaper options are out there? Plus, I hear they don't work on all mandolins. Any insight into this? I use D'Addario EJ75's and a Grisman "Dawg" pick. I totally understand what you mean when it comes to picks and strings. The differences can be pretty crazy.

[sbanjoman]

Gotta have to the F-style or something similar. I can definitely tell the difference between that and an A when I play 'em.

[dhergert]

It's interesting you bring up the ToneGard because I've been thinking about getting one, I just struggle with dropping $75 for that thing. Can't decide if it's worth the money. Do you happen to know if any cheaper options are out there? Plus, I hear they don't work on all mandolins. Any insight into this? I use D'Addario EJ75's and a Grisman "Dawg" pick. I totally understand what you mean when it comes to picks and strings. The differences can be pretty crazy.

Regarding the ToneGard, it is a re-usable accessory, meaning if you don't keep the MK, you can use the ToneGard on your next mandolin. They have a good reputation of helping just about any F or A style mandolin. ToneGards are not intended to be switched around a lot due to possible metal fatigue, but switching once or twice should work out ok.

[allenhopkins]

Gotta have to the F-style or something similar. I can definitely tell the difference between that and an A when I play 'em.

No real acoustic differences between A-model and F-model mandolins; the scroll and points are "for show, not for dough," pretty much. However, they do look mighty cool, and I for one won't try to talk you out of getting a better F-model.

What I would recommend, is to decide on a firm budget, then go out and play every mandolin you can find -- in dealers' stock, friends' instruments, whatever you can get access to -- that meets your price. And then pick the one you like best, assuming it's for sale

You have great advice above, but remember that every individual mandolin is to some extent unique. You may find an Eastman MD 515 that's absolutely superlative, and another "identical" mandolin that's no big improvement over your MK. The information you get from the Cafe is valuable, but most valuable is the info you get from hands-on investigation.

[Lane Pryce]

It's interesting you bring up the ToneGard because I've been thinking about getting one, I just struggle with dropping $75 for that thing. Can't decide if it's worth the money. Do you happen to know if any cheaper options are out there? Plus, I hear they don't work on all mandolins. Any insight into this? I use D'Addario EJ75's and a Grisman "Dawg" pick. I totally understand what you mean when it comes to picks and strings. The differences can be pretty crazy.

I had a tone gard years ago when they first came out. I used mine on several mandolins with no problem. They do work. Lp

[Payton]

Another plug for the Eastman md515. If you let the "it's an import" stigma scare you off, your missing out on a solid mandolin for the money.

Payton

[yankees1]

Buy a few more piggy banks and keep saving ! You have a ways to go to get the sound you want !

[rfd]

no matter what, use common sense whence thinking about an acoustic instrument purchase. buying before trying (or without an ironclad return agreement) is pure gambling. because acoustic instruments are SO unqiue, thinking that a price tag is equivalent of sound/tone/playability is a huge mistake, particularly in this day and age. and we all don't hear alike, do we? in the best of all fantasy worlds, doing a double blind sonic taste test of a number of quite varied build instruments would also help rule out headstock label stigma. playability is *always* number one, and that's almost always achievable with most any decent fretted instrument these dayze. but tone/sound/output - ah, therein lies the true crux of the matter. good luck.

[William Smith]

I would wait and save a little more. If you can get to the 2000-2500 range then you have what I consider the start of some used, no frills but quality F5 choices. Things like a Silverangel, a Ratliff, a Gibson F9, a lower level Northfield and so on. Really, most good F5's start in the 3-4k range but there are some good lower cost options out there for sure if you are patient.

YES Great call Mike, that's how I always upgraded, yep just for a bit more you can open up all sorts of mando possibilities, new,used,even something kool and vintage!

[Eddie_T]

I too like the convenience of having the instruments arranged by price; http://www.fiddlersgreenmusicshop.co...type/mandolins

[CES]

I'll chime in with support for Eastman 515 or used/Mandolin Store blem 615. My Eastman 315 is a big step up from the MK's I've played, though I'll admit my Eastman is one of the better ones I've played, and the MKs were not their top of the line mandos, or even the recently touted $199 gems. There are some really good KM 1000 and 1050s out there as well, and you can find used Morris and Kratzer (Bulldog) mandolins in the 1000-1500 range with patience.

If you think you're in this mando thing for the long haul, Mike's advice is not bad at all, despite the derision he's taking for doubling + your budget . Get a good set up done on your MK, maybe replace the bridge or get a tone guard, and save for a little while...

Of course, this is coming from a guy who started with an eBay POS I paid 350 for and who now has 7 mandolins, all different. The most expensive so far is my RM-1, though a couple of my A styles may be turning into a mid to upper tier F style in a couple of months...