New mandolin with small issue.

[David Lewis]

It's been a while since I've been here, though I've lurked a lot.

I bought a Washburn M1SLD, the black round hole model. I'm very impressed so far, but there's one issue I need to address.

On the G-string, the 11th and 12th fret play the same note. (And the 10th fret buzzes).

It seems to me there are three potential issues, or at least one of these three. The frets themselves seem properly placed, so it's not that.

1) a truss rod adjustment is in order?

2)the bridge needs to be raised a bit on the bass side

3) the bridge slots are wrong and I need a new bridge.

I'm really asking if anyone has had this problem with this mandolin, and if so, what did you do?.

Thanks in advance.

[MikeEdgerton]

It sounds like you have a high fret.

[ProfChris]

It's impossible to diagnose accurately without seeing the instrument, but the most likely answer is none of those.

Assumption: all the other strings play OK on frets 10, 11 and 12, and the G string plays OK on all the other frets.

If so, the 12th fret (and possibly the 11th) have high spots. They need levelling and re-crowning.

If the relief (the space between the 7th fret and the bottom of the strings when you hold down a string at frets 1 and 12 or so) is very large then the truss rod might need a small adjustment, but that probably wouldn't cure your 10-12 fret issue.

Fret levelling is fairly easy once you've done it a few times, but it's also easy to get it wrong and create new problem which can only be fixed by replacing the frets. So I think you need to find someone with successful experience and get them to do a proper diagnosis and fix.

[David Lewis]

That assumption is correct.

Thank you. I was hoping for an easier answer (of course). But I'll check out the frets.

[MikeEdgerton]

I have no idea of your abilities but sometimes it's as easy as finding the fret and tapping it down with a small hammer. If you're not comfortable with that find someone to do it for you.

[Paul Busman]

It's impossible to diagnose accurately without seeing the instrument, but the most likely answer is none of those.

I've never had to deal with this problem but it would seem to me that laying an accurate straight edge over the frets would be a quick and dirty test. I'd guess it would seesaw over a high fret.

[multidon]

Paul is exactly right. Stew Mac has just such a tool. It's called the "fret rocker". It's a small quadralateral precision straight edge with 4 unequal sides, to allow for different fret spacing. Span three frets with it and if the one in the middle is high it will rock. Great tool, I've used it hundreds of times to diagnose problems.

Because it is only on the G strings, I am suspecting a fret end rather than an entire high fret. Sometimes if they're just in there with compression the end can pop up. It's usually not visible initially. You can take a piece of dowel rod and press down on the suspect fret end. If you see any movement, you got it. Look very carefully! The movement is often slight but it can be seen, and even felt. The cure is to put down some paste wax on the fingerboard on either side of the fret, be ready with some water thin super glue, press the fret end down hard with the dowel rod, and with the other put a little super glue right along the offending fret end. It should wick right into the gap. Continue to hold the fret end down a couple of minutes, maybe 5 to be safe, and voila! Fixed!

The paste wax is to prevent the glue from going where you don't want it. Remove the paste wax when you're done, of course.

[pops1]

If you have used the 12th fret to check for neck relief, truss rod adjustment, and the 12 fret is high you may also have the truss rod too tight. I also feel you have a high fret or two, but recheck the relief when you are done.

[Mandoplumb]

If you have used the 12th fret to check for neck relief, truss rod adjustment, and the 12 fret is high you may also have the truss rod too tight. I also feel you have a high fret or two, but recheck the relief when you are done.

Never thought of that but you are absolutely right.

[dhergert]

Maybe this is just documenting something everyone else already knows, but if I know I have to level frets and if the truss-rod is a one-way truss-rod, I like to have the trust rod moderately tight before I begin leveling frets.

That way after the frets are level, I know I'll have some built in relief when I loosen the truss rod.

Otherwise, if the truss-rod is loose when I level frets, I may never gain any relief by loosening it more, and worse, tightening the truss rod may cause back-bow.

With a short neck like a mandolin has, this can make a big difference in how much relief can be added by adjusting a one-way truss-rod.

[rockies]

Pretty hard to diagnose without doing some measurements etc, but it could be loose frets, hump or twist in the neck or fretboard etc etc. Since it's NEW and could be an easy solution or something more serious why not deal with the warranty to have it repaired or replaced ???
Dave

[pops1]

I would be an easy check with a straight edge, it may be just loose frets that can be hammered in and no leveling. Dreeeaam, Dream Dream Dream, Dreeaamm.

[Frank Ford]

It's not an uncommon problem, and clearly a fret issue. If you bought it from a reputable dealer, they should address it for you without hesititation or charge, including a potential for return.

[Br1ck]

While a fret rocker is a nifty tool, you can accomplish the same thing by getting a piece of aluminum bar and cutting four different lengths from it. These are not perfectly straight in my experience. I have a very level 16"x 16" tile I put a piece of sandpaper on and run the bar pieces across to make them straight. About $5 and you have two feet + left over. Drill holes in one corner and use a keychain or the like to tie them together so you can have all the lengths together.

[ProfChris]

The short edge of a credit card makes a pretty good fret rocker for a quick and dirty check (long edge for lower frets of guitars). Not full precision, but close enough to identify a problem like this.

[Paul Busman]

People have mentioned the truss rod setting as the culprit in this case, but I can't see how that could affect only one string pair, on a couple of frets. Explanation?

[Hudmister]

I purchased a Washburn M1SDL online from GC and was quite unhappy with it. It too had fret buzz where the neck meets the body and the strings did not run straight down the neck. I tried pushing the bridge over a little to center the strings up with the neck and this helped but something worse was wrong. I returned the mandolin to GC and the tech there told me the neck was mounted at a slight angle off to one side. He removed the pick guard and this revealed the oval sound hole was about 3/8" off center (towards the treble side) and he had a good laugh as did a few sales personnel. They offered to order me another mandolin or refund my money. I took the refund and bought a Kentucky KM-272 oval hole which is very nice indeed and I enjoy the oval hole sound. You may want to consider having the dealer carefully inspect your mandolin if that is an option for you. There is apparently a lot of variation in what comes off the assembly line on these economy priced mandolins.

[David Lewis]

The problem is that I bought it in Nashville. I live in Sydney. I might be able to find a Washburn dealer. (I love the mandolin itself. It's a minor problem I can live with).

But yes it should be a warranty job.

Thank you to all of you. All great answers. All useful. I am deeply grateful.