Source for Brass/Gold Mandolin Bridge Thumbscrews

[Mike Conner]

I have some sets in nickel but prefer gold to match the tuning machines and tailpieces for my F mando builds. Checked the usual luthier sources but not sure where else to look. Any suggestions?

I try to build batches of 4 to 6 sets of bridge parts, so it would be great to find at least enough for that.
//mike

[Wes Brandt]

http://www.axinc.net/Bridges_Pins_Bridge_Parts_s/61.htm

They also make some of the nicest mando bridges I've seen, no rough milling on the compensation.

[Bluetickhound]

StewMac has 'em.

[Charles E.]

I noticed that they offer a radiused foot bridge.....

http://www.axinc.net/Radiused_Foot_M...ge_p/1050r.htm

Anybody have any experience with these?

[Dale Ludewig]

I've used the radiused foot bridge on about 6 mandolins now. I call it the "smiley" bridge. It's a winner for me. Bill James (axinc as well as the maker of the James tailpieces and the main supplier of celluloid binding) is a good guy, on top of it all.

As to the bridge, either the straight base or the curved one- there's nothing better out there. I know his original idea about the base was that it would help prevent the bridge from leaning forward. Whether or not that's a concern, I like the look of it. I fit mine full contact all the way across. No "feet".

NFI.

[Mike Conner]

Bluetick - the StewMac parts are only available in nickel as far as I can tell, and I have some of the closeout versions and one of their economy bridges. I use StewMac or LMII gold Thumbwheel sets for my guitar bridges.

All,
The Axiom bridges are tempting. I have had the "build it all myself" kind of focus, but the time and trouble saved by buying a well made bridge for $55 is really tempting. I am leaning that way, and then I could just make new saddles testing an alternative design I'm considering using a bone saddle insert.

The Cumberland Acoustics are at the top of the hill also, and I met Steve some years ago and he is a great guy.

Something to think about. I like to settle hardware details like these early in the design and prep phase so that I can make adjusts to the design like neck angle or string spacing, etc.

//mie

[Bluetickhound]

Gotcha. I was looking at the arch top guitar thumb wheels which are bigger than the ones for mandolin...

[Marty Jacobson]

I use #6-32 set screws and hex nuts. That way you can put a little 1/4" wrench on them and adjust while under string tension. Lots of folks are doing this now, it definitely makes adjustment easier. It doesn't look all that different.

[Charles E.]

Nice bridge Martin, zebra wood base, ebony saddle and a maple insert?

[Skip Kelley]

Marty, I didn't notice you use nuts instead of the flat thumb screws cause I'm to busy admiring your amazing work!

[Mike Conner]

Ordered 2 ebony bridges from Axiom. Bill James called me yesterday evening to verify some details on the order (solid vs two-foot configuration). Very pleasant conversation and I think it speaks well to his customer service.

I have started looking into a design using the 6-32 set screws and nuts that Marty recommends. Great idea and worthwhile to explore in terms of flexibility in the design. I'll have the Axiom bridges on hand to test and use as a reference.

Thanks for everyone's input.
//mike

[Mandoplumb]

Have you tried a good hardware store. Several years ago I made a bridge for a mandolin that wouldn't tune with any I bought.I found what I needed in a hardware store.

[pops1]

6-32 screws and nuts are very common and can be found in most any hardware store. You can buy them one or two at a time if you look in the boxes with the pull out drawers, they will have a row of them with various items. Should be able to find the hex screw in there too like what would come in a bridge with wheels, or you can buy a longer screw, cut the head off and slot it with a hacksaw.

[Mike Conner]

Yep, our local Lowes has a big section of drawer cabinets with lots of hardware. That's where I get my brass (gold) screws for strap pins, truss rod covers and magnetic pickup mounts. Maybe the price per piece is high, but the little bags are still inexpensive, there's a big selection, and the variety and convenience makes it easier to have several sizes in my parts drawers without having to buy a bag of 100 of the wrong thing

[Marty Jacobson]

Nice bridge Martin, zebra wood base, ebony saddle and a maple insert?

Hi Charles, it's wenge and ebony with a maple beam which threads through the base to keep the saddle from rocking forward.

[Dale Ludewig]

As a side note, if you're buying the 6/32's, 8/32's, and such- I think the 8/32's are the standard size for cabinet handles- A standard wire cutter tool that you may already own has a series of holes where the handles come together; there's numbers there. If you need to cut off one of these machine threaded screws, you can run it down into the associated hole and squeeze the tool shut and it shears off the little machine screw so clean that it doesn't mess up the threads. I hope this makes some sense. I had a couple of these tools around my shop for years before a friend of mine who worked at a local hardware store pointed out what those holes in the tool were for. I was amazed at what I didn't know.

[Bernie Daniel]

As a side note, if you're buying the 6/32's, 8/32's, and such- I think the 8/32's are the standard size for cabinet handles- A standard wire cutter tool that you may already own has a series of holes where the handles come together; there's numbers there. If you need to cut off one of these machine threaded screws, you can run it down into the associated hole and squeeze the tool shut and it shears off the little machine screw so clean that it doesn't mess up the threads. I hope this makes some sense. I had a couple of these tools around my shop for years before a friend of mine who worked at a local hardware store pointed out what those holes in the tool were for. I was amazed at what I didn't know.

Ha! I always thought those holes were for stripping insulation on different gauges of electrical wire!