Vintage Gibson As

[Br1ck]

Are the differences in vintage Gibson A style mandolins just a manner of ornamentation? Would a 1920 A, A2, A3, or A4 sound and play the same, save for the variance between any wood instruments?

Would I likely be as happy with the sound and playability of a player grade A vs a pristine A4? I have only played one, an absolutely lovely A 4. I don't mind taking in a homely orphan.

[nmiller]

You could argue that edges with binding are better protected against knocks than edges without binding, but generally yes - the A through A4 models are structurally similar. The A-Jr is different because it lacks a truss rod and an adjustable bridge, but the other models are basically the same. Early examples (pre-1908) have some design differences that also affect the sound, and there's also a difference in sound between a fixed bridge and an adjustable one, but two Gibsons from the same year will be structurally similar. I've found that Gibsons from this period are very inconsistent; they each have an individual sound, and an A-0 may sound much better than an A-4 (or vice versa). In my experience, their mandolins from the mid '30s onward are a lot more predictable.

[fatt-dad]

They all have neck reinforcement. All snakeheads, but for the Ajr, have adjustable truss rods. Pre-'20, I'm not aware of any that have adjustable truss rods - even in the F2 and F4 models.

I have no issues with the neck on my A3 (1920). It's not adjustable.

Also, it was only in Loar's time that the mandolins came with an adjustable saddle. My A3 is a one-piece bridge and it's original.

f-d

[mandroid]

It seems like the TR came in in '22, top down, have an A4 with* and an A 0 the simpler end, w/o..
both from that year..

* a feature highlighted by a shiny nickel plated TRC..

[FLATROCK HILL]

Are the differences in vintage Gibson A style mandolins just a manner of ornamentation? Would a 1920 A, A2, A3, or A4 sound and play the same, save for the variance between any wood instruments?

Would I likely be as happy with the sound and playability of a player grade A vs a pristine A4? I have only played one, an absolutely lovely A 4. I don't mind taking in a homely orphan.

To answer your question about (specifically) 1920 A models, I haven't noticed any difference in tone between the straight A model up to the A4. Not that could be attributed to the fanciness anyway. I don't think any of the ornamentation or possible differences in finish do anything to improve the tone. They do vary from instrument to instrument though and as always, better to try before you buy. And, as fatt-dad pointed out, those (1920) models don't have truss rods. As a result the necks are pretty beefy.

The only thing, 'ornamentation wise' that I find to be a negative in the straight A model as opposed to the models higher up the ladder, is the lack of fret marker dots on the side of the neck. If you rely on those side dots to navigate your way up and down the neck (stubby and short though it may be), you will notice their absence!

[Gary Hedrick]

From my observations ....Truss Rods....late late '21......adjustable bridges later '21.....aluminum top bridge '21....Cremona brown F4's '21.....So '21 is a a pivotable year

[BradKlein]

Yes. When you're talking 1920, you're really talking about the end of the teens A-models.

It's clear that substantially more care went into the fancier mandolins, and the finish and carving on the teens A-4s is really exceptionally nice. I have seen more pristine A-4s than the simpler models, and I have a theory that the folks who could afford such a fancy instrument, could also afford to stick it in a closet or under a bed when they retired form the local mandolin orchestra.

The less well heeled where more likely to sell the instrument instrument.

So the nice A-4s at $2-3K represent a very good value, even in comparison to an A at, say $1500.

As for sound and playability, that all depends on the individual instrument, and the wear and tear and repair that it has seen.

[Br1ck]

I picked 1920 at random. In my area there is everything from a 1913 A to the 1920 A4 in stores right now. Everything from one with a replaced back and neck heel repair to a very clean A 4, which is the one I played. I guess I just need to go play them all.

[pops1]

I think the teens from 18 on are the better sounding, most of the early 20's are good to great. Mid 20's getting into snake head, most say these are best, but my '22 is as good as any snake I have heard and fatt-dad will tell you his 20 A3 is as good as any. So yes play as many as you can and pick your favorite.

[allenhopkins]

Basic construction of A-models was the same, the gradations were based on ornamentation. I think you've hit the mark when you talk about "variance between any wood instruments."

Pre-truss-rod necks were a bit chunkier, but not enough to deter most players, IMHO. I'd play 'em all, pick the one you like best in your price range. Apparently you're not in the "collector" group, but want a good-playing, good-sounding instrument.

I started out on a 'teens A-1, went to a pre-truss-rod F-2, now own a c. 1910 3-point F-2. Hate to generalize as to what year produced "better sounding" A-models, since there's so much variance among individual instruments.