Strings Breaking

[Tom M]

So whenever I tune my mandolin up to standard tuning (G D A E) an E string breaks. I've been playing it tuned down a whole step (F C G D). Not a big deal as I play mostly in closed positions but I'm wondering if there are any easy remedies for this issue.

[AlanN]

Either the bridge or nut slot is the culprit. Inspect/lube with sharpened pencil each of those.

[dhergert]

Inspecting the string to determine where it is breaking is important. Also, which E string breaks is important...

If the string is breaking at a contact area with hardware, it may be at the string post, at the nut, at the bridge or at the tailpiece. Any of these locations may have a sharp burr which is causing the string to break under tension. I've also seen E string loop ends unravel and the string literally slip out of the tailpiece.

A burr can be carefully worked down with fine files and/or with fine wet-dry sandpaper.

Significantly loosening a string and then re-tightening a string may also cause it to fatigue enough to break, usually this will be at the string-post.

If the string is breaking between any contact area, it may be a bad batch of strings, or it may be that the string is being tuned too high.

Tuning too high frequently happens because the tuning standard you are using is sharp. For example, with an electronic tuner, it may be set significantly higher than 440.

[lenf12]

Don and AlanN are correct, it's hard to diagnose without knowing where the string is breaking and whether it always breaks in the same location. There are DIY solutions to fix the problem that are available from Frank Ford's Frets.com website.

Len B.
Clearwater, FL

[Willie Poole]

I had a fellow bring an instrument to me to re string because he had the exact same problem that you are having, come to find out he was putting mandolin strings on a mandola, I know that sounds far fetched to some of you but a beginner sometimes doesn`t realize the difference, he was able to get all of the top three strings to pitch but not the E strings....Have someone check it closely to see if it is fact a mandola....

Willie

[mandroid]

more info....Breaks where? How many times does this happen?

[Mandobart]

I'll bet you're poking the string thru the tuner post hole then cranking it up to pitch. This puts a sharp bend in the thin wire right away and subjects it to tension. Any burr or sharp edge on the hole makes it more likely to break.

A better way is to wrap the string around the post 3 to 5 times from the bottom towards the top, then poke the wild end through the hole and crank it slowly to pitch. The wraps take all the friction and tension and the free end has none. The wraps lock the string in the hole also. I never liked the string knot method advocated by many people smarter than me. It's a PITA to undo later.

Finally, if you change strings one course at a time and start with the E's, you have a good chance of breaking them when detensioning other strings as the reduced tension lets the neck straighten out slightly, raising tension on the remaining strings. I start a string change by loosening all strings equally about one step down in pitch. I change one course at a time low to high. After replacing each course I bring it up to about a half step in pitch below the final value. All strings come up slowly to final pitch when they're all replaced.

Just did my 10 string 26" mandocello this way yesterday, and including cleaning out the nut slots it took maybe half an hour. I've never broken a string while changing strings.

[Ivan Kelsall]

From Mandobart - "I'll bet you're poking the string thru the tuner post hole then cranking it up to pitch..". That's exactly what i do & purposely put the sharp bend in the string. That holds it firmly in the string post - but Mandobart is correct,any sharp corner on the string post could cut into the string(s) & cause them to snap. The strings naturally bend sharply as they wind on,if they didn't,they'd come off (IMHO). It's sharp corners that cause breakages - unless you pull a loop in the string & it pulls back on itself,that'll break it 100% of the time.

My way of attaching the strings to the posts is very,very simple. I cut the strings off to give me the ''wind on length'' i want - A & E strings about 2" past the post / G & D strings about 1". I poke the strings through the holes so they poke out by about 1/4" & then wind on. The last time i had a string break was over 45 years ago - on banjo. I did have one string break on mandolin shortly after i'd started playing,i overwound it = my fault. I bought my first elec.tuner shortly afterwards. As i wind the strings on,i hold them down into the nut slots,this gives the strings the correct 'break angle' from post to nut,
Ivan

[UsuallyPickin]

The three likely culprits are the saddle at the bridge, the slot in the nut and a burr on the tuning post. A small amount of filing and a little graphite from a soft pencil on the nut and saddle will likely cure your "E "ills. I had this problem and it turned out to be a burr on the tuning post. A small round file cleaned up the burr in moments. Slowly stretching an E string up to standard pitch helps. I tie mine on and then stop at two or three winds. I rarely break strings and I play "hard".

[mandroid]

Metal fatigue, will cause breakage, and the E being thinnest and pulled the tightest to hit its pitch,
will be the first to break.


Some people change the whole set of strings before that point.

[Tom Wright]

An inexpensive instrument's tuner post holes may be sharp-edged, but my bet is mandobart's---not enough turns to spread the load. You of course have a bend to hold the string from initial slip, but it is multiple turns around the post that protect the string. E strings should have at least two full turns---I usually have 3 or 4.



Also, be sure not to go far past pitch, if you are simply watching a screen. Approach pitch slowly.

[Ivan Kelsall]

You've got it spot on Tom !. I usually have 4 or 5 complete turns around the binding post on the A & E strings, & 2 on the G & D strings. Not one string break in close to 12 years - apart from the one i overtightened,
Ivan

[wxfloyd]

I know I can't be the only one to find that photo extremely satsifying.

An inexpensive instrument's tuner post holes may be sharp-edged, but my bet is mandobart's---not enough turns to spread the load. You of course have a bend to hold the string from initial slip, but it is multiple turns around the post that protect the string. E strings should have at least two full turns---I usually have 3 or 4.



Also, be sure not to go far past pitch, if you are simply watching a screen. Approach pitch slowly.

[pops1]

I always have 3 turns on wound strings, 4 on plain, minimum.

[music man]

I'm Gona try doing this it sure sounds better than the way I've been doing it !! Might not be such a chore.