Mandola bridge spacing

[jazzjune18]

Howdy. Just ordered a Cumberland mandola bridge to fit on my Washburn mandola However, I haven't been able to come across a reliable string spacing template to-scale. Anyone have one out there they would be willing to share? Thanks!

[John Kelly]

Can you not just transfer the measurements from your Washburn bridge to the new Cumberland? Either by measuring or by using a set of dividers. You can also adjust the spacing to suit yourself based on how you found the original bridge - a bit closer spacing - a bit wider -or to whatever you find suits you best.

[jazzjune18]

Good idea John. Only problem is the bridges that Washburn out on their mandalas are just mandolin bridges (I'm assuming the mandola spacing will be slightly more since it's got a longer scale

Can you not just transfer the measurements from your Washburn bridge to the new Cumberland? Either by measuring or by using a set of dividers. You can also adjust the spacing to suit yourself based on how you found the original bridge - a bit closer spacing - a bit wider -or to whatever you find suits you best.

[Mandoplumb]

Jazzjune I just made a saddle for the same mandola (Washburn). I used the saddle that came with as a templet for the string spacing. I fail to see why a longer scale would affect the string spacing unless the longer strings vibrated more and buzzed against each other anyway it worked for me.

[ajh]

You might want to track down something called "Bluestem String Spacing". It looks like the link to Bluestem is gone, but you can google image to take a look at it. Key to the whole thing is to keep your outside strings gauged/measured to the outside of your fretboard, then go from there using their template as a guide. Is a great tool.

[John Kelly]

The longer scale in itself will not affect string spacing, J. The spacing is more to do with the width of your fingerboard and the taper it has - width at nut compared to width at the soundhole end; there will be a slight increase as scale length increases, but not too big a factor from mandolin to mandola.
AJH notes above the point about gauging outside strings to the outside of the fretboard and this is a good guide, but remember to allow some room outside those outside strings so that the strings do not fall off the fretboard if they are too close to the edge! The template is a great idea, and if you cannot get this, then position your bridge on the instrument, centred and at the correct scale length, and get someone to hold it there while you take a straight edge from the nut down the length of the fingerboard, allowing the outside margin as I mentioned above. Pencil in where this crosses the bridge saddle then do the same for the other outside string; you will then have the width of your two outside strings and you can measure from there to place the other strings. many people allow slightly more spacing for the heavier strings (both between the pairs and between the four courses. For straight edge you can use your two outside strings, fitted to the tuners and in the nut slots and just pull them tight along the length of the fingerboard. I have a good straightedge but the string works fine with firm hand tension on it.
Hope this helps!

[ajh]

And don't be afraid to cheat the outside bass string in just a bit. If it is too close to the edge it can then be shoved over the edge because of the way your finger can push the string. Been there, done that.

[Folkmusician.com]

The best way to go about this is to set the two outer strings by eye with the bridge on the mandolin.

Now notch the inner C and A strings. At this point you have 4 strings done and they are pretty much perfect...

Now move the center strings into position by eye. If you have a caliper you can use that, but still check by eye as well. Once they are in place, push down on the strings to make a line on the bridge.

I have tried every type of measuring and jigs, and always have the best luck doing it by eye.