Gibson A40 cracked headstock

[Jomamma]

I just acquired a 1964 Gibson A40 with a crack in the headstock. Please offer suggestions for repair. Please see pictures.
Thank you
Jomamma

[Bill Snyder]

Really? Your user name is Jomamma?

[multidon]

I would say, hot hide glue, maybe prepared a tad thinner than usual for penetration. Get the glue nice and hot, try to get the crack to separate a tiny bit, careful not to make it worse, apply plenty of glue, let it wick in real good, clamp the sucker, clean off the squeeze out and excess with s damp cloth. Done.

Oh, and recommend you change the user name. Some will find it offensive, as do I.

[AlanN]

And I would get the deluxe Klusons on there, as original tuners.

[Jomamma]

Yes really. Why not?

[Jomamma]

How do I get the glue in the crack? Should I put glue on both sides? I'm concerned about messing up the Gibson logo.

[Willie Poole]

If you are afraid of messing up the Gibson logo and can`t figure out how to get glue into the crack you need to take it to a repair shop, they can either do the repair or give you info on how to do it....I don`t think it is that hard of a job ...BUT....

[multidon]

The glue gets into the crack by capillary action. If it's thin enough it just wicks in there. You do have to spread the crack open just a tiny bit. As stated above squeeze out and excess cleans up very easily with a damp rag.

It is an easy repair for someone familiar with how hide glue works. If you are not then a professional luthier is the key. It's simple enough I don't think it would be that expensive. 60-75 dollars would do it I should think. The cost of the materials is negligible but you are paying for the expertise and experience of the luthier.

[Jomamma]

Thanks Don

[Michael Lewis]

Looking at those pics causes me to wonder if there is any oil in the cracks, and are those cracks glue joints? The grain pattern appears to be indicative of two pieces glued together, in which case there may be old glue in there. It kinda looks that way.

If it glues up all right, then good and lucky, but if there is old glue (who knows what kind?) it needs to be softened and moved out of the way from allowing the surfaces to come into contact. Just filling a gap with glue will not make a strong repair, the wood surfaces must be in contact for the glue to form a good bond.

[Ivan Kelsall]

Looking at the photo.of the back of the headstock,it does seem as though it's constructed of a centre piece & has had 2 'ears' glued to it to make a 3-piece headstock. The 'ears' are a totally different grain to the center piece.
If that's the case,then as Michael Lewis says,there will be old glue needing to be removed. Unless you're really competent,i'd take it to a good luthier - just in case !,
Ivan

[G7MOF]

It must be an American thing but why is the name Jomamma offensive?

[Jomamma]

Just call me Joe

[multidon]

Michael and Ivan, good call on the ears. I really should have caught that as it is plain to see now that it has been pointed out. What procedure would you use to remove the old glue? In 1964 Titebond was most likely used I think. Vinegar?

Best advice is a good luthier. Not a good DIY project for the inexperienced.

G7MOF, it is very American. A reference to an insult of one's mother in African American dialect. But we will just call him Joe. The moderators could change the user name for him if he requested it.

I have always been curious about your user name. May I be so bold as to assume you are a ham radio operator? I used to be into that years ago, but it was a phase.

[Timbofood]

Joe, I agree with Ivan, looks like the "separation" is at the joint not a proper "crack". I might consult someone close to home who has some experience. In theory it's not too difficult, open the joint, clean off the old glue, re glue, clean seepage and, clamp. That said, I am not one who does repair, so take my advice with a block of salt.
I for one do not find your screen name offensive, momma jokes were pretty common when I was in highschool, some are still funny!

[G7MOF]

Michael and Ivan, good call on the ears. I really should have caught that as it is plain to see now that it has been pointed out. What procedure would you use to remove the old glue? In 1964 Titebond was most likely used I think. Vinegar?

Best advice is a good luthier. Not a good DIY project for the inexperienced.

G7MOF, it is very American. A reference to an insult of one's mother in African American dialect. But we will just call him Joe. The moderators could change the user name for him if he requested it.

I have always been curious about your user name. May I be so bold as to assume you are a ham radio operator? I used to be into that years ago, but it was a phase.

Hi Don, yes it is a Ham call sign. The chances of it being duplicated on any site is near enough zero!

[Jomamma]

I would take the mandolin in to good repair person if I knew one. Daytona Beach, Florida area. If anyone knows a good luthier let me know. That being said I'm probably going to try the repair myself. If anyone will help with any sort of tutorial I would be most grateful.

Thank you

[jaycat]

"Yo mama is so fat, she sat on a bass fiddle, and when she stood up, it was a mandolin!"

"Yo mama is so ugly, she looked at an F-5 and uncurled its scroll!"

"Yo mama is so dumb, she dipped her Blue Chip into some onion dip!"

. . . sorry, couldn't resist.

[multidon]

Although I have no firsthand knowledge a quick internet search turns up Precision Guitar Works in Melbourn, FL, not too terribly far from you. Owner is a graduate of the well regarded Galloup School of Lutherie in Michigan. Seems like he would be a good bet.

[Jomamma]

Thanks Don
Melbourne is farther than I'd like to go, but I appreciate your efforts. If I try the repair myself do you think hot hide glue or titebond would be a better choice?

[multidon]

Hot hide, definitely. But if you are not familiar with its use I recommend a LOT of research on how to use it and a LOT of practice on scrap wood first. There is a learning curve associated with its use. There is a lot of information right here if you learn to use the search function. And all the old glue in there has got to go first. Try vinegar, or Stewart MacDonald sells a product called De-Glue or something like that which has vinegar as an ingredient in a gel base.

You have to have a way to maintain the glue at a constant temperature. This is usually done with a hot water bath. You can mix the dry granules with hot water in a small glass jar, then microwave it a bit and shake the jar until it is completely dissolved. Then to maintain the temperature I have used a coffee cup warmer with a larger jar filled with hot water. Place the glue jar in there, kind of like a double boiler. Others use a small crock pot the same way. When the glue is ready brush it on the crack. Make sure you use enough. Let it wick in. It is helpful to keep the working area warm with a heat lamp or powerful light bulb. Once it's had a chance to wick you can even massage it into the crack to make sure it's in there nice and deep. Clamp it with any kind of clamp that works for you. A bar clamp or cam type would work but make sure you use cauls to prevent the jaws from marking your headstock. Wiping the squeeze out and excess off with a damp rag immediately will minimize cleanup later. Even if you miss some you can always remove it later with hot water. After clamping let it cure overnight. These are just general guidelines; further study on your part and practice is still advisable.

I still believe a pro is your best answer. I didn't spend any more than 5 minutes coming up with the one place I did. Perhaps there is a good one closer to you and someone else will come up with a name for you.