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Type: Posts; User: fscotte

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  1. Replies
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    Re: Top and back graduations

    If building to Griffith Loar A standards, you may wanna pay more attention to the arching.

    Dudenbostel described it as "long and low". I wouldn't trust the Siminoff plans either. One reason...
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    Re: Don MacRostie & Red Diamond mandolins

    Did you happen to see his "6 dial indicators" contraption that he used to use to measure back plate deflection?
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    Re: Top and back graduations

    Right Jim, I feel the shape of the arch/plates is significantly more important than the thickness.

    Even minor differences in the arch will affect the strength of the plate.
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    Re: Top and back graduations

    The shape of your arch will determine the thickness.
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    Re: Naked Bridge Post Is Shredding My Palm

    A drop of clear silicone or hot glue on the top of the post works great.
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    Re: lacquer problem

    You don’t need to wet sand, just sand.
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    Re: lacquer problem

    I like to think that the culprit is something in the spray gun itself. Clean those things throughly.
  8. Re: Ring - Concave / Convex Pliers for Bending Binding

    Heat it up a bit more, or less.

    There seems to be an ideal temperature where binding bends easily. I did binding in very hot water and let gravity make the initial curve as I pull it out of the...
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    Re: Measuring the top/back through soundhole.

    Finally, this is the sensor I bought.

    https://www.vernier.com/products/sensors/magnetic-field-sensors/mg-bta/

    You also need the Go Link to connect it to a computer:
    ...
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    Re: Measuring the top/back through soundhole.

    I bought a device from Vernier and had to dismantle it a bit. Glued in a regular disc magnet at a specific distance from the circuit, and used Vernier software to take measurements.

    I bought a...
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    Re: Measuring the top/back through soundhole.

    I built my own magic probe a few years ago. Cost about $100.
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    Re: Seam separation repair on Loar era F-4

    So there’s a tiny hole left and you just fill it in?
  13. Re: Need suggestion on removing bad finish from a build.

    You never mentioned, but careful how and what you use to clean your spray gun with. I've made the mistake of not using clean "cleaner" to clean my gun with. The residue from the cleaner mixed in...
  14. Re: Need suggestion on removing bad finish from a build.

    I'd give it more time. If it's only been a week, give it another week.
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    Re: Straighten a Neck - No Truss Rod

    Strong candidate for fretboard removal, and installation of carbon fiber rod.

    Easy peasy.
  16. Re: Bridge parallel to the top or the strings ...

    I'm not sure it matters... As long as it's stable.
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    Re: Crack~say it isn't so!

    Every mandolin is built with a crack right down the centerline of the top.
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    Re: Advice needed for this seam separation

    I don't know how anyone can even look at that photo with the reflection.
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    Re: Tone wood Backs

    Softwoods have been used for backs on many types of instruments.

    It's more about durability rather than tone.
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    Re: A little info on this prewar Martin guitar.

    You have very good eyes about the finish around the bridge. At first I thought it was just glue, but closer inspection appears to be lacquer applied with a small brush, obviously in attempt to cover...
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    Re: A little info on this prewar Martin guitar.

    Thanks.

    I have opportunity to purchase this but value seems to be within a wide margin. It has no cracks anywhere and seems structurally stable.

    A pm would be appreciated if anyone has an...
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    A little info on this prewar Martin guitar.

    I don't know too much about these older Martins.
    It does appear to have had a different bridge on it. I'm told it's from 1928. 12 frets to body. Pickguard missing?

    Serial 25648.

    And what...
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    Re: mayhem in the music room

    I'll go with the lack of glue on the bottom of the tailblock theory. Once that gives, the side rim can tear easily and violently.

    If it fell from that height, it's likely the bridge would be in a...
  24. Re: IV A Style Mandolin Build - Back plate question

    Just so you know, it appears that many Loars were sanded down after assembly, suggesting that they were "tuned" by making the backs stiffer than they need to be at the start, and slowly sanding away...
  25. Re: IV A Style Mandolin Build - Back plate question

    Back braces are just as good as not having one.

    I've used them when I needed to make the back a bit stiffer.
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