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Type: Posts; User: rcc56

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  1. Replies
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    Re: Fretboard slot size and tang size

    Although I have somehow avoided having to use it, I have heard that stainless steel wire is difficult to manage.
    From everything I have heard, it is not something to be used by a beginner.

    You...
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    Re: Fretboard slot size and tang size

    Pretty much a repeat of what's already been said:

    1. Make sure your slots are deep enough.
    2. Bevel slot edges with just a couple of strokes with a small triangle file.
    3. Knock the square...
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    Re: Vintage Gibson oval hole

    Well, let's put it this way-- a friend of mine had a spare set of Handels, and would put them on one mandolin for a while, then take them off and move them to another, etc. . .

    At one time or...
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    Re: Does this look like an issue?

    It's probably ok, but it could also be a sign of a tailblock which is starting to come loose. If so, it should be attended to immediately. It could also simply be that the lacquer is sinking into...
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    Re: Vintage Gibson oval hole

    The only A models that were factory equipped with Handel tuners were A-4's, and perhaps a very few early A-3's. The plates were the same, so they are drop-in replacements.

    I remember a time when...
  6. Re: Old photos - a hodgepodge of musicians - folkies +

    And Jerry Lee Lewis might outlive Keith . . .
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    Re: Sliding into Notes

    You can even slide down from a note, though this is not done much on mandolins. But there's no reason it couldn't be done more often.
  8. Thread: yamaha mandolins

    by rcc56
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    Re: yamaha mandolins

    If you look at the mandolin pictured in the above link, you will see that it has a "Washburn" logo on the head. Despite the advertiser's description, it is not a Yamaha at all.
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    Re: Jumbo frets? 51/100 or 50/100

    I have installed 45 x 95, which is smaller than you are asking about, in 3 or 4 mandolins. It looked clumsy, and the board was so crowded in the upper register that higher notes were nearly...
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    Re: Gibson F-9 repair project

    I think those gluing surfaces are going to have to have at least some wood removed to regularize them. You might even have to graft in some new wood. I find a sanding block with an angled side to...
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    Re: Gibson F-9 repair project

    "Only a Gibson is Good Enough." -Gibson, 1942
    "When good enough is not good enough." -The then independent Epiphone company, in a trade magazine a couple of years later.
    "If it's a Gibson, it'll...
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    Re: Identifying an old Gibson mandolin - thanks

    I don't make anything of it without a description, picture, or factory order number. Gibson had stopped building oval hole mandolins of any kind long before that serial number. It could be anything...
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    Re: Identifying an old Gibson mandolin - thanks

    Yes J.C., I was speaking about your mandolin [OP means original poster].

    A factory order number is a number that was stamped inside an instrument in the early phases of construction so the workers...
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    Re: Fretwire and slot help?

    I've re-fretted 3 or 4 mandolins with 95 x 45 wire at customer request. In all of those cases, the large frets had a rather ungainly look, especially above the 12th fret. It was positively ugly...
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    Re: 1917 A-1 replace frets?

    I've re-fretted quite a large number of old Gibson oval holes. Some of those instruments were later sold by major vintage dealers. The dealers priced them the same as similar instruments with...
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    Re: Identifying an old Gibson mandolin - thanks

    If you go down the factory order number lists in Spann's, you will see that the latest documented A-2's of any type were built in 1923. No A-2's are documented as being built any later than that.
    ...
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    Re: Identifying an old Gibson mandolin - thanks

    The OP's factory order number is documented as an A-2Z in Spann's book.

    Suppose the label was missing or completely unreadable, what else would you call it??
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    Re: Fretwire and slot help?

    #1. Just enough to clear the bindings minus a small fudge factor [maybe 1 to 2 64ths of an inch] to avoid pushing the binding out by accident.
    #2. Don't know. We don't see much of it around here....
  19. Re: What if I removed the nitro finish from the sides of my mando

    I would use nitro.
    French polished shellac is the only alternative I would even consider.
    In most cases, I avoid touch up or refinish with anything but the medium originally used.

    Anything else...
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    Re: Identifying an old Gibson mandolin - thanks

    An A-2Z should have a bound fingerboard, bound back, a double bound top, and a pearl "The Gibson" logo.
    Most have a fancy soundhole rosette with narrow black-white-black bands around the perimeters...
  21. Thread: V joint question

    by rcc56
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    Re: V joint question

    We must keep in mind that the string tension on a mandolin is much greater than that on a violin.
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    Re: Identifying an old Gibson mandolin - thanks

    According to "Spann's Guide to Gibson," 11963 corresponds to a 1923 factory order number and 81057 to a 1927 serial number. That's a larger difference in date between factory number and serial...
  23. Re: Removing finish spots all over Regal tenor guitar

    You can level it with a miniature cabinet scraper with part of the blade masked off with tape. Start with two layers of blue masking tape and work your way down to 1 or 2 layers of Scotch magic...
  24. Re: What if I removed the nitro finish from the sides of my mando

    Possible causes:
    1. Wood surface not correctly cleaned and prepared.
    2. Bad barrel of lacquer or vinyl sealer.
    3. Too much thinner or conditioner added to lacquer.
    4. Not enough drying time...
  25. Re: What if I removed the nitro finish from the sides of my mando

    This is an example of what is called "loose finish." Most of us who work on instruments would consider this to be a manufacturing defect, but I doubt that Gibson would cover it under warranty.

    If...
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