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Type: Posts; User: amowry

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  1. Replies
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    Re: James Mandolin Tailpiece

    The surface is slightly textured, so to get it to be glossy I believe you would have to sand it flat and have it re-plated. It has a similar finish as the satin Waverlys.
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    Re: Life with a Luthier

    Oh, my wife's favorite smell is when I've been shaping bone nut blanks on the belt sander. Fortunately the shop is separated from the house by the garage...

    I've always found the smell of hide...
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    Re: Life with a Luthier

    Forgetting to take the wood out of the oven isn't nearly as bad as forgetting to take the celluloid binding out of the toaster, just ask my wife ;)
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    Re: Fan-fret mandocello build

    Looks good so far! The headstock is certainly the trickiest part of these, so if you can do that, you can do the rest. My preference is to use a compound headstock angle, which for me is a little...
  5. Re: Ditson Victory.. in need of TLC, need advice

    Here's one example-- might be just the ticket
  6. Re: Ditson Victory.. in need of TLC, need advice

    Oh, inlaying the Stealth tuners and putting the plate back over them was what I was going to suggest, but you beat me to it;) I think maybe Ken Parker inlays them flush with the back of the...
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    Re: Preparing for a Tru-Oil Finish

    Yeah, I've had good luck with it as a sealer--one of things I like about Tru-Oil is that it doesn't disturb Transtint much when you wipe it on, and other finishes on top of it don't redissolve it, so...
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    Re: Preparing for a Tru-Oil Finish

    Just out of curiosity, what's the purpose of the shellac in this instance? Tru-Oil makes a great sealer itself and is less likely to disturb dye than shellac is.
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    Re: Dry Bending Sides

    Yep, I agree too, and if I'm bending on a hot pipe I only apply water to the inside surface, like Adrian mentioned. I think that helps aid compression while preventing too much stretching on the...
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    Re: Truss rod or not?

    I built well over 100 mandolins with carbon fiber with no issues (some 25+ years old), and if I was building one for myself that's still what I would use. However, I now use trussrods on most...
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    Re: Dry Bending Sides

    I'd venture that one why reason why most luthiers don't use steam is that it gets the wood wetter then necessary, which makes figured wood more prone to breaking, and makes rippling more likely. In...
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    Re: Dry Bending Sides

    On the issue of the cells slipping vs. compressing: With figured maple, which we mandolin builders use most often, the "curl" enters and exits the faces of the wood repeatedly, so it effect each cell...
  13. Thread: lacquer problem

    by amowry
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    Re: lacquer problem

    To me it seemed like the incompatibility between shellac and the Cardinal lacquer was certainly exacerbated by excessive shellac thickness. It seems to be that Cardinal softens the underlying...
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    Re: Wrinkling purfling

    It helps to only heat the outside of the binding, so the outside layer will stretch but the purfling will resist compressing. Also try using as little heat as possible to get the job done.
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    Re: Olive oil staining on top?

    I would think naphtha would pull a lot of the oil from the inside. It's worth a try. If there's a little splotchiness left you could give the inside a light coat of mineral oil to blend it together.
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    Re: New Heiden Octave Short Scale

    Sweet!
  17. Thread: lacquer problem

    by amowry
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    Re: lacquer problem

    After having problems with shellac under Cardinal, I switched to vinyl sealer, and I like it much better than shellac. A lot of the literature talks about shellac sealer “bringing out the beauty of...
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    Re: Extended length drill bit

    Yep, most hardware stores carry aircraft bits.
  19. Thread: lacquer problem

    by amowry
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    1,374

    Re: lacquer problem

    Yes, Cardinal definitely does not like shellac. I learned the hard way too. I think shellac can in general cause problems under lacquer, especially if it's applied too thick. A very thin wash coat is...
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    Re: Machining/Routing Celluloid

    Yes, it's probably time to replace the bit. Like Adrian said, if the bit is sharp and the celluloid is still getting hot, you can increase the feed rate or decrease the cutter speed. The idea with...
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    Re: Is my top caving in?

    Yep, I'd first just try pulling the saddle backward (reducing string tension just a bit if you can't do it under full tension), as it looks like there's some gap underneath the back of the bridge...
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    Re: What's up with USPS?

    I shipped instruments with USPS for fifteen+ years without a single issue, and then earlier this year they lost an instrument and broke another. I'm now using FedEx for stringed instruments. The...
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    Re: Photographing shiny things

    Outside in the shade on a cloudy day is easiest, as it gives you lots of well-diffused light. I got tired of depending on the weather, though, so I now take photos inside, but reflections can...
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    Re: Binding laminate

    Stew-Mac sells a binding laminator that works pretty well: https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Jigs_and_Fixtures_for_Guitar_Building_and_Repair/Binding_Laminator.html

    I use it...
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    Re: I am totally bummed out

    I would opt for hide glue rather than CA. If it's a clean break you can use masking tape to hold it in place while the glue dries, and hide glue will shrink and pull it tight. Hide glue is probably...
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