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Type: Posts; User: buckhorn

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  1. Replies
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    Re: F-hole re-enforcement

    I have used gauze with Titebond from my very first, following Siminoffs' guide.. With my second build, I sanded most of the glue and gauze off after reading about how unnecessary the reinforcement...
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    Re: Rib assemblies too small?

    my plates are always oversized and are then fitted to the rims.. then are final thicknessed .. it's a great luthier that can cut a plate exactly to a rim --- I'm not even close to being there.....
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    Re: First attempt at heat bending: questions

    I've never had a rim not scorch a little, especially around the scroll and the tight 'S' below the neck.. I use about the same setup as you but with electrical conduit... I've taken a strip of ...
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    Re: Time to build?

    took me 18 months for my first build, but learned to replace a top right off.. after almost 20 years now, I've got a little faster.. A styles take about 120 hours , and F styles take about 150...
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    Re: questions about a neck build

    I have always used walnut for the center strip for the 3pc and even 5pc neck.. never had a problem.. as for cutting the channel with a table saw: set the saw blade depth at 5/8 , take a 1/8 piece...
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    Re: new top F hole repair

    I've tried several ways to cut out the sound holes but this works best for me.. After tracing the holes out, I will use the smallest brad point drill I have and drill out the hole being careful to...
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    Re: How do you rip the wood for your ribs?

    For several years. I cut ribs with the table saw and it was fairly consistant with thickness.. But with 3/4 inch boards, the best I could get was about three slices per board..Even with a narrow kerf...
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    Re: Cost target s $700.. best is an Opinion..

    Moderator Edit: Pleases refrain from posting personal Classifieds as per Forum Guidelines.
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    Re: Useing lacewood

    try as I might, I could not get a bend without breaking. the first bend at the heel would snap. the second bend went the same way. and the hot pipe would burn the wood so bad I probably wouldn't get...
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    Useing lacewood

    A few years age, a friend gave me a piece of lacewood to play with. So I made a back plate for an F style. The carving wasn't too hard, but bending was a whole different matter. I use heat and steam...
  11. Re: Mandolin born during coronavirus pandemic in Spain

    that A style looks tasty.. but then, all of your work does..
  12. Replies
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    Re: Post a picture of what's on your bench?

    184636 with all the down time thanks to this virus stuff, I've been keeping busy building parts ahead...
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    Re: fretboard support opinion?

    I've always used maple for the extension.. And I've given many, many pieces away with rim and neck sets that I've made for others.. Being the cheep old guy that I am, I never waste materials.. And...
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    Re: Source for left-handed mandolins

    I've had a lefty made for several years now, listed on Café a couple of times, and have had no interest at all.....
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    Re: Marketing and getting your name/brand out.

    I've been trying to "break into" this market for almost 20 years.. I've donated, loaned, given away, and even sold a few. There has been only rave reviews about looks and sound and price.. Been...
  16. Re: looking for help with lowering my action.

    be sure that the neck is level.. if too high up the neck, then bridge is too high.. remember that when you remove material, ya can't put it back.. only a new bridge will correct that...
  17. Re: What was your biggest challenge in making an F style mandolin

    Building a good looking, great sounding, easy playing mandolin and not having any interest in your dream.. Spending 120 to 150 hours doing something you love and chasing that dream and hoping...
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    Re: Post A picture of your favorite "A" model

    182171 I haven't finished my favorite A style yet...
  19. Re: Of your favorite instruments that qualify for this site...

    182111182111 I just haven't made my best one yet.. each is an improvement from the last...
  20. Re: Making Head block for F5. " the old fashioned way"

    I've used cedar along with mahogany for blocks and points, but mahogany in by far my first choice.. It's about the most stable concerning warps and splits.. Laminating is the way to go for me, cross...
  21. Thread: knot in top

    by buckhorn
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    Re: knot in top

    Yes, speak with the supplier.. All that I deal with will make good.. On the other hand, if you are working with lower grade wood, go with it.. I have used less then perfect tops that have come out...
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    Re: Truss rod or not?

    181316 the third mandolin I built back in 2003 had a two piece neck without a truss rod.. last weekend it came back home to visit .. not only does it 'still have the sound' , but the neck is still...
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    Re: Truss rod or not?

    I've done just about all types. No truss rod, truss rod, carbon fiber, noting at all... I've made one piece, two piece, three piece, and five piece necks.. With almost 20 years building, never had a...
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    Re: Bridge and Tail Piece Recomendations

    181119 over the years, I've tried a lot of different things.. one thing that worked out really well was making a bridge out of bone.. The ones That I've made are not adjustable but feel that it added...
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    Re: Shipping Costs

    I posted a rim and a neck via USPS internationally to Italy about a month ago and cost was $24.. a few days later I posted to Oregon and it was $27..... both boxes were exactly same size...
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