I like to press in frets using a fret arbor press and caul. I get a more level and cleaner installation this way. Typically, I don't have to do much fret leveling with a good fret press job. When you...
Type: Posts; User: bpatrick
I like to press in frets using a fret arbor press and caul. I get a more level and cleaner installation this way. Typically, I don't have to do much fret leveling with a good fret press job. When you...
That looks like a piece of spruce, but possibly European spruce? I went to the website listed; binderholz.com. The company seems to be headquartered in Austria? PEFC also seems to be a euro-centric...
After a bit of research, I looked at my records on the construction of my mandolin. I had actually left an old fashioned lightbulb too close to the lower back seam. It became hot and opened up a...
Adrian - Seems like a logical explanation, but these instruments have likely never been exposed to humidity below 35-40%. I live in the southern United States where low humidity is never a problem...
I searched the forum for past posts on this subject but didn't find anything.
I have a couple of mandolins that have hairline cracks in the back seam in the recurve at the tail block area. One of...
I use a Bosch Colt router in a plunge base and a bridge hold down jig. The router slides along a captured path while the angled bridge is held by screws in the center of the jig. I use a good quality...
Royal Blackwood is torrefied Purpleheart (Peltogyne spp.) One source, at least for guitar fretboards is: https://alliedlutherie.com/collections/fingerboards/products/royal-blackwood. It is not the...
On second look, the shafts, especially the Ds and As seem short. Maybe the shafts have been modified? Here's a photo of a nickel set of MF40R tuners.
208890
Those appear to be Gotoh MF40R tuners. I know that Gotoh has different style/color buttons, so they should be easily replaced. However, I don't know of a source for buttons only. Here's a link to the...
I cut one piece mandolin necks on my bandsaw. I true the peghead faces with a block plane, shoulder plane, and flat sanding surface. For guitars, I use this plywood table saw scarf joint sled. I make...
If you go with the miter saw, be careful. I ruined a neck once using an expensive Makita sliding miter saw. The neck blank had been rough cut on the bandsaw. I wasn't cutting a scarf joint, just...
Andrew - I'm guessing you're not a fan of the Gotoh bushings either. I like the tuners, but their bushings are a bit large, high, and rounded above the surface.
Very nice. A two piece birds beak neck joint?
For years, I used a hot pipe heated by a propane torch. While this worked well enough, my pipe would have an uneven heating surface with hot spots where the flame was closest and cooler away from the...
Thanks for the update from 1917. It's awesome to see old construction techniques (and new ones).
I have set them flush with the neck surface immediately under the fretboard with no problem. Prior to gluing, you can place a 1/2" strip of masking tape over the truss rod, spread the glue, and then...
What's up with the rectangular lighter shade around the f-holes? Formerly gauzed areas?
I thought I would post a follow up to this conversation. The Silvertip epoxy grain fill method worked well on this guitar. The owner has been playing it for over a year and the finish is holding up...
James, thanks for the clarification.
I get the modification thing. I have made and modified many tools to suit my needs. I also have a Stew Mac fret tang nipper - aka Klein Tools sheet metal...
I've read James Condino reference the mysterious Japanese Fish Hook/Stew Mac diamond fret file in several forum posts. One included the photo below. However, this diamond file does not seem to look...
For years, I used a heavy walled 2" steel pipe with a piece of metal screwed across the non-torch end. This was heated by a propane torch. This set up worked pretty well, but I was always a bit leery...
I have used the GenOne plan. I purchased it several years ago when the company was named Georgia Luthier Supply. I looked over the plans and didn't see a note about leaving the top flat and 1/8"...
If you're into modifying plans, I've used Adobe Illustrator (expensive) and Affinity Designer (not very expensive) to convert pdf plan files into dxf plan files. Once in dxf, plans can be modified...
You could try contacting John Griffin at Old Standard Wood in Fulton, Missouri. http://www.adirondackspruce.com