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I like what Steve Sorenson has been up to. His designs modern, yet traditional. Stylish but not enslaved to the cookie cutter Loar mold.

And it'll be better looking wood too... Nothing wrong with the wood in that listing but Bruce has never failed to deliver the goods in my experience..

Very clever tip about the reflection of the binding helping to gauge the miter angle. This whole thread has been one of my favorites since joining. Always nice to see the masters at work!!

http://www.woodcraftbands.com/index.htm

These folks say they do custom lengths in 1/16" but I didn't see anything under 3/16" on their stock list. Might be with giving them a shout to see if they...

That Duolian doesn't happen to belong to a Mr. S. Ainslie, does it?.. He has the best sounding one I've ever had in my grubby little meat hooks...

Boy howdy, truer words have rarely been spoken. I'll futz around with a drawing for hours trying to tweak it to perfection and after all that time, as often as not, I'll decide the original is the...

Here's a direct link...

https://www.axinc.net/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=SCI250

+1 on the Axiom tip. I bought a 2"x2" square chunk of grained celluloid and will cut what I need for my point blocks when I get around to doing a mando that requires 'em! I don't have it right in...

Gotcha. I was looking at the arch top guitar thumb wheels which are bigger than the ones for mandolin...

StewMac has 'em.

My Cumberland Acoustics rosewood bridge is in the mail! I can't wait to get it and am looking forward to getting on with the current project that it will be going on. I have a new back set coming to...

I haven't used chalk for dovetails but I would imagine the high spots would be where the chalk rubbed off. If it's smearing, maybe using less chalk would help.

Seeing instruments like that one really fire me up! As much as I appreciate a standard Loar type F style or Snakehead, the stuff James, Marty Jacobson and others are doing are what really inspires...

The Lee Valley tools have smooth inside curves, and I had great success last night with stikit 120 and 220 grit paper. The tapered file got more use than the full curved one but both are fantastic,...

For real. I'd be more worried about some brain dead baggage handler breaking an instrument than having said instrument confiscated...

PM me Steve...

Fair points... The rosewood in question I believe to be Indian. Streaky, and more reddish in color. I'm going to give the rosewood a go and see how it turns out. I'll get the fretboard from StewMac...

I would imagine some stick it sandpaper would be useful on the smooth side.... Mine are "on the truck for delivery" (five of my most favorite words!!) today. Looking forward to getting my hands on...

That actually surprises me. Inwould figure there would be very marked differences in tone/volume...

I can already see what's gonna happen here... I'll spend the next couple of weeks making bridges out of any scrap of hardwood I can get my grubby meathooks on....

I hadn't thought of a one piece or a bone saddle but that sounds really nice. Do you have a picture of that bridge you could post?

From my pittance of experience, I would think a rosewood bridge wouldn't be as bright and "poppy" as ebony but would have a more mellow tone, which would be fine for my goals on this particular...

I'm sure this has been discussed ad nauseum here but I could only find one short thread in the archives... Does anyone have any input on using one or the other for a mandolin that is not going to be...

It must be a camera angle thing... They are straight inline A-style tuners. I've never bought Waverly's but I just cannot fathom them being $400 better than these...

Edit: never mind... I see the...

I just got my set yesterday, along with a James shell tailpiece. I can't say enough about how much I love the Rubners! Really looking forward to installing them but it'll be a little while.

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