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  1. Replies
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    Re: A couple of build questions

    +1 What John said.
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    Re: A couple of build questions

    Sealing the inside makes some internal repairs difficult to impossible when things go wrong, it is of debatable and minimal value, and most of us don't do it.
    Gauze "reinforcement" of f-holes does...
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    Re: A couple of build questions

    Sealing the inside of the instrument to slow down humidity change makes sense but it's never traditionally been done in the violin or archtop world, not sure why.

    Gauze reinforcement of the F...
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    Shout out to De Paul Supply

    Due to having to re-do my fretboard, I ran short of 4mm MOP dots...by just 1 dot. I couldn't find anybody selling single dots except De Paul, who I had originally ordered my inlay supplies from. I...
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    Re: Fret Size Opinions

    My flatiron has small frets and I love the way it plays, but I've built several instruments since getting the Flatiron and I've used the EVO GOLD FW 74. I love the larger frets. Feels better to me. ...
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    Re: A couple of build questions

    Interesting questions.

    1. Some folks do, but not common AFAIK
    2. a. Yes, the response will change. Whether you can hear it is another matter.
    b. I'm sure there are other ways to...
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    Re: The real glue strength

    Fish glue has a poor reputation, due to failure in high humidity conditions. While some of these failures may or may not be due to operator error, I prefer not to use it.

    Here is a recipe for...
  8. Re: Help! Quick recommendation - Paasche airbrush

    I have a Paasche and an Iwata, both dual action. Like them both a lot.
    On a slightly different thought, for doing sunbursts, I much prefer using a detail gun. It's kind of a cross between an...
  9. Re: Help! Quick recommendation - Paasche airbrush

    I greatly prefer dual action. Much more control, IMO.
    I believe the one shown in the OP is the model that I currently own and use (looks like it, I'm not where I can know my model number right now)....
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    Re: another contour map question

    Mike, keeping it as simple as possible, once you have the 5mm all-over thickness, aim for around 4.5mm in the centre under the bridge, and gradually thinning out to around 3mm in the recurve except...
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    Re: Another CF reinforcement question

    Not a mandolin, but here's how Howard Klepper utilized carbon fiber reinforcement on my guitar - inlaid flush below the fretboard and into the dovetail and headstock.
    ...
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    Re: Another CF reinforcement question

    I have been very pleased with a truss rod combined with a small piece ( 1/8” wide by 1/4” tall) of carbon fiber on each side. But, the first time I tried it, I used a “hot rod” style truss rod and...
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    Re: Another CF reinforcement question

    Just to add, I extend the carbon fiber rod up into the headstock, because the headstock/neck transition is a really delicate part of the instrument.
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    Re: Another CF reinforcement question

    I like to extend the CF right across the neck joint into the fretboard extender. That way the CF will help keep the extender true with the neck over time. However, I would suggest not using quilted...
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    Re: Another CF reinforcement question

    2. It will make your life easier to recess them and cover with a strip. CF doesn't respond well to sandpaper, scraper, plane, or any other tool that you might try to use to true up the neck surface...
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    Re: Another CF reinforcement question

    No need to extend into the dove tail with the CF rods but you can if it works out better for your approach.

    Cover them with wood, more glue surface area when the finger board goes on.

    I would...
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    Re: tone woods for Octave Mandolin

    Tbone, you're putting the cart before the horse. Pick a maker whose work you like and can afford. Then talk with them about what woods might suit you best.

    I say this having made hundreds of OMs,...
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    Re: Advice for a pre-professional luthier?

    Train your hand skills in woodwork, don't just buy jigs and special gdgets that promise that anyone can get great results (perhaps you will get them, but will learn nothing). I've seen folks who...
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    Re: Advice for a pre-professional luthier?

    Study good instruments every time you have the opportunity. Try to discern what makes them tick. On mandolins, look at the arching, feel the stiffness of the plates, try to see if you can produce a...
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    Re: Advice for a pre-professional luthier?

    Get a beater. Take it apart and rebuild it. Scratch the top/back and fix that. Strip top/back and refinish. Refret it. Replace the fingerboard. Repeat on A/F style. Change the tuning machines....
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    Re: Advice for a pre-professional luthier?

    Repair stuff. Know your limits and take on repairs accordingly. When we take instruments apart and fix them, we can see how they are built, what went right and what went wrong. Study different...
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    Re: problem with an ebony fret board

    I run a bead of water along each fret and steam it with the soldering iron before starting to pull the fret. Keep the soldering iron on the fret as you pull so it stays hot. That softens the Ebony...
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    Re: problem with an ebony fret board

    I was just going to mention this. I think it makes a big difference along with heat from a flat tip soldering iron (helps to clean and "tin" the iron tip frequently to get the best heat transfer). ...
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    Re: problem with an ebony fret board

    Don't know if it was mentioned, but I usually file each fret slot slightly with a triangular file to help from chipping our when removing them later.
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    Re: New Tobin Bouzouki for Manus Lunny

    Here are a few more photos of the build for you. We left it with the carved neck and top block fitted into the building jig. The next job is to bend up and fit the sides.
    182964
    While the glue is...
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