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Type: Posts; User: rcc56

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    Re: Question about late twenties Gibson A's

    I do not subscribe to the conventional wisdom that Loar period A models are better than those made from 1910 to early 1922, or those made from 1925 to their discontinuation in the 1930's.

    The only...
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    Re: F4 truss rod cover

    Yes, many of us can make a truss rod cover for that mandolin. It is important to make an accurate measurements of the distance between the screw holes, center to center, and the length and width of...
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    Re: Vega Cylinder Back Mandolin Bridge

    The chipped area can be flattened out to provide a nice, regular surface, and then a new piece of ebony fitted in and glued. We leave the new piece a little bit oversized, and then after the glue...
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    Re: crack in top, F model

    If it is a closed crack, brew up some hot hide glue and rub it in with your fingers while you are flexing the crack.

    If possible, clamp it level with 2 violin clamps designed to be used through...
  5. Re: Off in the weeds on my first mando purchase ...

    If you don't like tiny necks, and you already play guitar, I suggest you look at some of the old Gibson oval hole mandolins. The plainer models made in the 1910's have nice, ample necks, and can be...
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    Re: A model case for old Gibson

    I believe that the Guardian CG-020-MA will fit Gibson oval hole A models. Not a fancy case, but durable enough for casual storage and local travel.
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    Re: A request of builders

    My feeling is that if a builder charges $2000 + for a new instrument, it should not be shipped with a lousy fret job and a poor set-up. But I've seen both on instruments that cost a lot more, many...
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    Re: A request of builders

    Good fret work takes time, patience, practice, good tools, and a good understanding of geometry and the other forces that are involved.
    Some people don't like to take the time or expense to do it...
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    Re: I have a superton, what next?

    Observe that the bridge has two pearl dots on it. In most cases, these are covering bolts or screws.
    If you decide to replace the bridge, you must take this into account.

    Ebony mandolin nuts are...
  10. Thread: Bowed neck issue

    by rcc56
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    Re: Bowed neck issue

    Hide glue does not bond well to metal. Epoxy is the most common choice for wood to metal.
    I would recommend hide glue for the fingerboard to neck joint.
  11. Thread: Bowed neck issue

    by rcc56
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    579

    Re: Bowed neck issue

    The bent bar is probably just shoddy workmanship, as is the unglued bar sitting 1/16" low with nothing to cover it. Whether that happened at the factory or from a later repair attempt, nobody knows....
  12. Thread: Bowed neck issue

    by rcc56
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    Re: Bowed neck issue

    Sounds like you are dangerously close to damaging the neck by trying to save the fingerboard. If you have any doubts, sacrifice the fingerboard and save the guitar.

    $30 or so for a fingerboard,...
  13. Re: Archtop guitar neck repair advice (no mando content, sorry)

    Good. I wouldn't worry about a small piece missing from the bottom of the dovetail as long as the fit is snug. I would clean the sliver out of the mortise as a matter of principle. If a lot of...
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    Re: Gibson A50, odd neck

    The neck with a center stripe does not bother me. But the signs of movement along the center joint do.

    It appears that the glue joints holding the neck together are deteriorating. It is not...
  15. Re: Archtop guitar neck repair advice (no mando content, sorry)

    If you want a good joint, your gluing surfaces must be clean.
    A piece of fairly coarse sandpaper glued to a beveled block of wood can be useful here.
    Use a tapered shim to insure that the joint is...
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    Re: But it said it was a Gibson!

    #theiconicgibson

    Overwhelming all others by flooding the market with their astonishing production of 3 dozen mandolins a year . . . [or is it 2 dozen?]

    To all competitors: "You have nothing to...
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    Re: But it said it was a Gibson!

    No Mike, it's definitely not one of those . . . :)

    Remember the thread on the 2 point flat back octave mandolin with the Gibson/Virzi label pasted in it, probably reproduced from an old trade...
  18. Thread: Bowed neck issue

    by rcc56
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    579

    Re: Bowed neck issue

    If you did your neck set correctly, the bowing neck must be addressed.
    Too bad you didn't pick up on it while the neck was out of the guitar, but that's the way it goes in the repair business.

    I...
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    Re: 1919 gibson a3 #mandolin

    * Hard to tell for sure from pictures, but the color of the back on this one looks a bit lighter than what I generally see for an original finish for this period.

    ** That's a bad place for a...
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    Re: Valuing a Gibson by Dr Lori

    $1500 is still way too high. Observe the scratches on the top . . .
    Maybe $1000 on a good day. Remember it's a bottom of the line model.
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    Re: 1919 gibson a3 #mandolin

    I've seen guards like that. I've seen them with the truss rod through the inlay.

    I believe the bridge to be a much later replacement.

    The only things that look unusual are the truss rod cover...
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    Re: Machining/Routing Celluloid

    I have always roughed them out with a coping saw or bandsaw, followed by touch up on a belt sander, and finishing them off with hand tools. My shop space is limited. I don't have routing tables or...
  23. Re: A question on a Century of Progress Gibson LC Guitar.

    The 14 fret L-Century necks should all have truss rods.

    Most of the 12 fret HG-Century necks do not, but they only made a few dozen of them. All of the 12 fretters were built for Hawaiian play. ...
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    Re: Lyon & Healy Style C

    Every one I have worked on had T frets. I suppose a few dozen of the earliest ones might have been shipped with bar frets.
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    Re: One Gibson L-model I have never seen before

    That is a Gibson ES-120T, a budget model thinline electric made from 1962 to 1970. It had a Melody Maker style pickup, and the controls and jack were mounted on a thick pickguard which was screwed...
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