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Type: Posts; User: amowry

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  1. Re: Rib re-flexing: How much is to be expected?

    Do you cycle the heat a few times with the heating blanket? I usually heat once for bending, let cool, then heat again for about 15 minutes at a lower temperature (maybe 180 degrees F). That should...
  2. Re: Set up question- intonation on the D string

    It's very common for mandolin bridges to be compensated with the D strings too far forward. If there's room you can file that ramp back, or if not you might try angling the whole bass side of the...
  3. Thread: Time to build?

    by amowry
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    Re: Time to build?

    I average 160 hours per instrument. An F5 is around 250.
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    Re: Stew mac -- waverly f-style mandolin tuners

    Yes, the back of the headstock should be completely flat, all the the down to the end of the tuner plate. Most tuners flex some when you tighten the screws if the headstock isn't flat.
  5. Re: PLEASE HELP! ABS Binding Bending Problems First Time Builder

    I've never had a problem bending laminates that I've made and I only give them a few days to gas off after laminating, but I've never used ABS. One thing that helps avoid kinking of the inner layers...
  6. Re: At what point in your build should you avoid heat and humidit

    Some builders who don't condition their whole shop use a conditioned box/closet etc. to store parts in while they're not working on them.
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    Re: Curved truss rod?

    I did a bunch of tests with various rods too, and the straight compression rods seemed to work as well as curved ones, so that's what I used for about ten years until I switched to double-action...
  8. Re: Center line and neck dovetail offset... Am I in trouble?

    If you want confrontation, you should see me on the banjo forums...

    Another consideration as a builder is that when a client asks for a neck with a 1 1/4" nut, you quickly run out of space next to...
  9. Re: Center line and neck dovetail offset... Am I in trouble?

    Okay, here's what I was going to say-- it's not actually confrontational, I'm just always wary of saying anything that could be possibly be construed as "harshing" on Loars. I don't mean it as a...
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    Re: How do you rip the wood for your ribs?

    Agreed, the Safe-T-Planer isn't great for thin wood. To avoid blowing out the edges you can use a very narrow climb cut at the edge before proceeding with conventional cuts across the rest of the...
  11. Re: Center line and neck dovetail offset... Am I in trouble?

    I deleted this post— I feared it might raise hackles rather than furthering the conversation.
  12. Re: Center line and neck dovetail offset... Am I in trouble?

    I've always centered my neck on my F5s. I realize some purists may frown on this, but I prefer the appearance of having the little curved sides of the fretboard extender the same width on each side....
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    Re: How do you rip the wood for your ribs?

    Here's someone who set up their sander like yours as a thickness sander:

    https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/discussions/tool-talk/27228-ridgid-spindle-belt-sander-thickness-jig

    That might be...
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    Re: Fretboard/bridge/strings geometry

    If it's a small amount of tilt you can certainly compensate for it with the saddle height. I don't know if there's a particular cutoff, but if it's only, say, 1/64", I wouldn't be too worried about...
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    Re: binding channel cutting options

    They both reference both the rib and the top. I think with archtop guitars, the choice would be mostly your working position. I doubt you could use the Elevate jig with mandolin because the ribs are...
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    Re: binding channel cutting options

    I think this is the video Marty shared. We’ll see if this works...

    https://youtu.be/W6JFwPVfveE
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    Re: binding channel cutting options

    That "zero bar" is a cool idea! The main difference between mine and those other bearing guides is that mine swivels so the depth of cut remains the same regardless of whether the guitar is held...
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    Re: binding channel cutting options

    Yep, that's correct. It adds a little time, but it's pretty fast moving the clamps around.
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    Re: binding channel cutting options

    I also used the StewMac Dremel guide once and vowed never to do it again. It does live on as the bearing guide in my current setup, though. This is based on the same idea as Lynn's wooden guide, but...
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    Re: Neck strength and size HELP?

    There are many guitar builders who use epoxy for fretboards. I prefer HHG myself, but it's not unusual to use epoxy. It does have the advantage that there's no backbowing at all during glue-up...
  21. Re: Email address request for Rolf Gerhardt (Phoenix Mandolins)

    Dan, I'll PM you with is email address.
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    Re: How to inlay my logo

    I like the silver wire idea too. You could get someone to CNC the channel, and then just press bezel wire in, sanding any areas that you want tapered/mitered-- it's very fast. It won't tarnish if...
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    Re: Fretboard slot size and tang size

    I assume you checked to make sure the slots are deep enough? I find a 0.023" slot to be a little too tight for most fretwire, but you should be able to get away with it. I typically use a 0.024" or...
  24. Re: Confused about a spirit varnish over a sunburst on first mand

    Yes, a few sprayed coats of shellac (the first very light, then slightly heavier) should lock in the dye so subsequent coats won't disturb it. Once TransTint dries, it's the same stuff whether you...
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    Re: Transtint Dye for finishing HELP?

    I don't use any black because when I tried it in past it seemed to take some of the vibrancy out of the color, so I just mix the browns as strong/dark as necessary.

    Transtint is much more...
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