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    Re: Tell me why not: Carbon fiber bracing.

    While the fundamental mode of motion of a top or back is sort of like a speaker cone, there are more modes of motion as well, and all are involved in the mandolin making sound. In other words, the...
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    Re: Tell me why not: Carbon fiber bracing.

    Because wood has different amounts of movement in different directions (more movement tangentially, less movement radially and essentially none longitudinally) wood workers are taught to avoid...
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    Re: Tell me why not: Carbon fiber bracing.

    While there is nothing fundamentally wrong with the idea of solid CF braces, they would need to be correctly sized to get them into the range of mass and stiffness that works for the sound we want....
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    Re: Tell me why not: Carbon fiber bracing.

    Nasty dust, difficult to glue. Other than that, the main thing is getting a wide enough brace to have enough surface at the glue joint for a good joint, while keeping the brace light in weight. ...
  5. Re: Long-winded general questions from a mandolin newbie ...

    In the $1000 and down price ranges there is little or no consistency. Playing and choosing is the only sensible thing to do IMO if better sound is what you are looking for. I've found Kentucky...
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    Re: Headstock question

    I had a summer job in my college days working for ASCS (agricultural stabilization and conservation service) measuring corn fields, set aside land and so forth. There was plenty of time spent pulling...
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    Re: Headstock question

    I'll have to remember to ask the Troublesome Creek guys if they thought to measure the volume of flood water that came out of the mandolin I'm fixing for them.
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    Re: Headstock question

    I don't know how many slotted pegheads you've done, but I would assume the builder went solid to save work and time! :cool:
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    Re: Headstock question

    I believe Dave Cohen recently reported that a slotted a headstock is indeed lighter than a solid headstock. Of course, the weight of the tuners can vary.
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    Re: Finish cracks?

    Well that fills me in on several of the things that I didn't know in my first post.
    The finish is lacquer (or at least was on F5g mandolins last I knew), and was most likely applied very thick (as...
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    Re: Finish cracks?

    I don't know what the finish is, I don't know how it was applied, I don't know how thick the finish is, I don't know how the wood was seasoned before the mandolin was built, I don't know how the...
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    Re: What is the story behind the "scroll"

    I had that opportunity once as well. Got to handle Stradivari and Amati violins as well as see all sorts of ancient instruments from all over the world. Quite an experience.
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    Re: removing the top of a 1915 Washburn

    The lower edge of the side binding is almost surely not lined up with the top-to-rim joint, but instead will lower (toward the back) than the top-to-rim joint.
    You could use a technique that I've...
  14. Re: Judge throws out Gibson's claim that Dean is in contempt of c

    ...no big surprise that the focus is apparently not on building instruments...
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    Re: less heavy tuners

    Could be.
    It is not easy to build a mandolin with a 15 fret neck and good balance in the hand and on the strap, but some are more balanced than others. If you are open to selling/buying, just wait...
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    Re: less heavy tuners

    We can immobilize the mandolin, use a strap that sticks to our shirt, or otherwise keep the neck from dropping, but that doesn't adjust the balance of the instrument. It only overcomes the tendency...
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    Re: less heavy tuners

    Dan, yes those look like the tuners, although my weight might have been for F-style, and they've undergone a slight design change at some point before or after my weight recording. Can't be much...
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    Re: less heavy tuners

    The recorded weight that I have for newer Waverly tuners is 166 grams (it was 169 grams before a slight redesign). That's probably for F-style tuners, but all the same, they are the heaviest I've...
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    Re: Noob crack repair question

    First question (OP):
    Removing the back is a last resort. When possible, most of us repair cracks without any unnecessary dismantling of the instrument.

    Second question:
    Compressing the...
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    Re: Spruce-different species

    Growing conditions can affect how trees grow, but when it comes to wood for instrument building, it comes down to the individual piece of wood and it's characteristics. There is so much variation...
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    Re: I'm curious about a hide gluing method

    Well fit, well glued, and well preserved hide glue joints are among the most difficult to open that I have encountered. I'm not sure where the "truism" of hide glue being easily reversible came from,...
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    Re: I'm curious about a hide gluing method

    Steam can get "anywhere" when it comes to wood.
    I have not tried the technique, but it has been done successfully.
    A similar method (and to me, one that makes more sense) is to glue, dry and clamp...
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    Re: Binding- searched forum

    Binding is not considered structural. Well fit, well glued wood binding might contribute a little to strength, but that is not the purpose, and strength must be part of the design and execution of...
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    Re: Gibson A2 binding

    In order for a re-glue to reliably hold, the binding must be over-stretched for gluing. Simply heating and stretching back into place is not usually enough and the binding will once again pull away...
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    Re: What is the story behind the "scroll"

    Correct. I should have said fretted instruments. I believe lyres and other older instruments with strings but no frets had scrolls.
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