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Thanks Walt. Your mandocello sounds (and looks) beautiful!!! Actually that's the sort of tonal-range I'm looking for (but 4 / 5 string electric). I am thinking of going for a 23" scale; I am already...

Love it! Thanks PT66!

Any suggestions please? Having just completed my first foray into 'anything wood' with a 17” mandola, and recently acquiring a Chinese-copy of a Bigsby whammy-bar to cut down if necessary, I want to...

Hi Mandocello8 - sorry I didn't replied to your post. Just realised I hadn't! Anyway, the mandola's all strung up, plays beautifully, no neck twisting, movement or anything. Stays in tune, sounds...

Thank you for your calculations, Mandocello8. However I'm not sure I fully understand the maths.

However ... to start, I have decided to keep both C strings (as I am replacing the nut to make...

Thanks Walt. I am going to change the 018 string to a 017 ... that will help. Everything else seems fine, especially when - see below - I have radiused the bridge!!!!

Aha!! The pick-up manufacturers asked the same question and ... oh dear, no; the bridge is not radiused and once I've done that I think it will clear up a whole other bunch of niggling problems I'm...

Hi - actually this has already been answered so no worries.

Thank you Tavy; actually you were part of the "YouTube Academy of How To Make A Mandola" that I've been learning from, over the last year!!

In response to your excellent suggestions, I'll be...

I have just finished my first ever build, an electric mandola, 17” scale, tuned CGDA with 48, 32, 18, 12 nickel ball-ends. I built it from scratch. As someone who mainly writes & performs his own...

Thanks pops1 ... it seems to be a drop off as a curve both sides ... probably the downside of a rail pickup? The top A string is weak too but that's not such a problem. I've tried raising & lowering,...

Thanks John

I have just finished my first ever build, an electric mandola, 17” scale, tuned CGDA with 48, 32, 18, 12 nickel ball-ends. I built it from scratch. As someone who mainly writes & performs his own...

Thanks PT

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The octave sounds beautiful; what pickups have you used?

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Thanks Bill

Hi. I'm starting to build a chambered solid-electric mandola (with book-matched spruce top). I originally bought some Meranti for the body, but I would like to find a wood that has a good tone AND...

I’m being given a (late) friend’s Kasuga A-mandolin - probably from the late 70’s, early 80s. I guess it has no truss-rod (from my online research). I can pick it up in a couple of weeks.

Re:...

Hi - I have a 60s (?) Terada Japanese mandolin. Looks beautiful, but the neck is like a rollercoaster & the tone is .. well, "interesting" (dull). I rebuilt it from a bare-bones reject, fitting...

Wow! So much input; thanks everyone, so helpful - I can't quote you all by name!

I cannot re-fret .. unfortunately I don't have the tools or the experience ... or the money to buy the necessary...

I’ve picked up a lot of good tips from other Mandolin Cafe posts, thank you everyone.
I was recently given a nut-less, bridge-less, tuner-less body of a 1960s Terada mandolin (like the ones sold...

Thanks to you all for your input :)

Yes unfortunately I have to agree with pops1 too; shame ...

(sob) I think you're right!! Shame.

Hi Ed and Nevin too ; thanks for your help. The mandolin is also called a "Gremlin" - they are sold by Hobgoblin UK; it's Chinese, cheap but surprisingly warm & full-sounding .. I bought it...

Hi; some time back I bought a s/h Ashbury archtop round-hole mando. I really like the sound & recently was asked to do some out-on-the-street promo music for the local community. I eschewed taking my...

Thanks Pops. Maybe it'll be ok .. there are slight identifying "marks" on the zero fret but not what I would call dents as such. Plenty on the woodwork though!!!
No, there's no truss rod; guess I'll...