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Type: Posts; User: fscotte

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  1. Replies
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    Re: Advice needed for this seam separation

    I don't know how anyone can even look at that photo with the reflection.
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    Re: Tone wood Backs

    Softwoods have been used for backs on many types of instruments.

    It's more about durability rather than tone.
  3. Re: A little info on this prewar Martin guitar.

    You have very good eyes about the finish around the bridge. At first I thought it was just glue, but closer inspection appears to be lacquer applied with a small brush, obviously in attempt to cover...
  4. Re: A little info on this prewar Martin guitar.

    Thanks.

    I have opportunity to purchase this but value seems to be within a wide margin. It has no cracks anywhere and seems structurally stable.

    A pm would be appreciated if anyone has an...
  5. A little info on this prewar Martin guitar.

    I don't know too much about these older Martins.
    It does appear to have had a different bridge on it. I'm told it's from 1928. 12 frets to body. Pickguard missing?

    Serial 25648.

    And what...
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    Re: mayhem in the music room

    I'll go with the lack of glue on the bottom of the tailblock theory. Once that gives, the side rim can tear easily and violently.

    If it fell from that height, it's likely the bridge would be in a...
  7. Re: IV A Style Mandolin Build - Back plate question

    Just so you know, it appears that many Loars were sanded down after assembly, suggesting that they were "tuned" by making the backs stiffer than they need to be at the start, and slowly sanding away...
  8. Re: IV A Style Mandolin Build - Back plate question

    Back braces are just as good as not having one.

    I've used them when I needed to make the back a bit stiffer.
  9. Re: IV A Style Mandolin Build - Back plate question

    It may be too thin. Or not.

    The back is the most difficult part to get right and thicknesses will vary from builder to builder, and even build to build. There is also no reasonable way to measure...
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    Re: Side bending. Is this worth saving?

    If you discard wood because of mistakes, you'll never finish your mando. Learning how to work with mistakes is what makes you a good builder.

    Loars are full of little mistakes.
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    Re: inside the instrument

    Extra weight.
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    Re: Side bending. Is this worth saving?

    Use it. When you glue it up on the mold, throw a little HHG in that crack and it will virtually disappear. You'll be sanding the outside of the rim as well which will help hide it even more.
  13. Thread: ToneRite

    by fscotte
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    2,084

    Re: ToneRite

    Until someone clearly understands why good tone is achieved in one mando and not the other, I'll withhold any opinion as to what does or does not improve said tone.

    As of right now, we don't know...
  14. Re: Advice on first mandolin building kit/tutorial

    Just build from scratch, few things are as hard as it looks and the mandolin is no exception.
  15. Re: TurboPlane, Safe-T-Planer - Powering through plate carving

    I use an angle grinder with 40 grit pads for roughing inside and out.
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    Re: on doing a sunburst

    I sand the top to 400-600 grit before staining.
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    Re: Using pine, other "non-spruce" woods...

    If it's wood, it's light, and stiff, and has few defects or run-out, you can use it.

    Pine doesn't know it's pine. Sometimes pine thinks it the world's best spruce.
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    Re: Mandolin Build kit on stewmac.com

    I have and what it normally proves is that any differences in tone/sustain require a somewhat significant amount of mass to be added or removed.

    More important is where the mass is added or...
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    Re: Mandolin Build kit on stewmac.com

    Shouldn't notice any difference at all.

    To prove your theory, just put a clamp on the peghead, or use a large ball of clay to add mass.
  20. Thread: Necks

    by fscotte
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    2,297

    Re: Necks

    The kind of wood species matters.

    A glue joint will not be stronger than Brazilian Cherry, as an example...

    But a glue joint on Sitka spruce will always be stronger.

    It's quite easy to...
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    Re: Detailed plans for a dovetail neck joint jig

    Not a jig, but there is a fool hearty process of making a dt joint on Peter Coombes website. Which was also based on Dudenbostel's easy to follow directions.

    They really aren't hard at all.
  22. Thread: deflection jig

    by fscotte
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    Re: deflection jig

    I use one but I'm not happy with the typical two foot bridge.

    I'd like to figure out a way to use a gel pack, large enough to cover a large part of the plate. The gel would come to equilibrium,...
  23. Re: Traditional or modern design, what's your strategy ?

    Guitars and banjos, violins, cellos, pianos, flutes, trumpets, trombones, etc........ All seem to follow traditional design.
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    Re: Low/No budget DIY mandolin making tools

    Most any tool you want or need can be found very cheap at antique shops.

    I get the make your own tool bit, but if your goal is saving money, you'll find some of the best steel from old hand tools....
  25. Thread: Isabel A

    by fscotte
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    Isabel A

    Always love when an Isabel Mandolin owner posts some sounds of their new Mando. I built this mando to be played in an "intimate" setting with fewer instruments, but Bryan found a way to bring out...
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