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  1. Thread: Lefty f-5 case?

    by amowry
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    3
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    322

    Re: Lefty f-5 case?

    I usually have Ameritage make them for me. I suspect Cedar Creek also could.
  2. Re: Should I learn to make bridges while I'm at it?

    I guess my take on this is that if bridge-making sounds fun and rewarding, then go for it. One of these days soon I'll be making bridges to last me for the next few years, and that's always a day I...
  3. Re: Should I learn to make bridges while I'm at it?

    I started making my bridges because I was having to alter pre-made bridges too much to get them how I wanted them. I would say it's worth it if you're going to be building a lot of instruments. If...
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    Re: First attempt at heat bending: questions

    I use aluminum flashing, which works great and doesn't oxidize or stain the wood. I buy it in wider rolls and cut the whole roll to width (carefully) on my bandsaw after taping it so it won't spring...
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    Re: James tailpiece on a Northfield F5S?

    You don't need to enlarge the hole for the jack-- the end of the jack is smaller than the main portion and fits right through the existing hole in the tailpiece.
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    Re: Required tools for building own fingerboards?

    I would slot first, then radius. That's what I used to do when I used a tablesaw. I second Marty's suggestion to make a simple crosscut sled (it can just be wood with wood runners). I used one with...
  7. Re: Truss rod: Too tight? And still a string-ward bow.

    It does sound like the neck is thick, but that's a separate issue and more one of personal preference. Yes, the trussrod might be more responsive if the neck were thinner, but you'd also be losing...
  8. Re: Truss rod: Too tight? And still a string-ward bow.

    Do I understand correctly from your first post that there are currently no frets or strings on the instrument? If this is an instrument that you just want to be able to play yourself and you aren't...
  9. Re: Advice needed on K&K mandolin twin pickup install

    It works fine with a James tailpiece— no need to enlarge the hole. Just remove all the nuts, and then the shoulder on the jack goes right up against the inside of the tailpiece, and the right amount...
  10. Re: Advice needed on K&K mandolin twin pickup install

    If I understand the question correctly, the hole in the tailpiece doesn't need to be 15/32", because the SwitchCraft jack has a shoulder, and the end fits through a standard tailpiece hole (e.g....
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    Re: Feedback: First fret pulling job

    I do like Peter says, and run a thin bead of water along both sides of the fret with a pipette before I heat it. Then, as soon as the water has boiled away, I pull the fret. The water does seem to...
  12. Re: Rib re-flexing: How much is to be expected?

    Do you cycle the heat a few times with the heating blanket? I usually heat once for bending, let cool, then heat again for about 15 minutes at a lower temperature (maybe 180 degrees F). That should...
  13. Re: Set up question- intonation on the D string

    It's very common for mandolin bridges to be compensated with the D strings too far forward. If there's room you can file that ramp back, or if not you might try angling the whole bass side of the...
  14. Thread: Time to build?

    by amowry
    Replies
    15
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    1,545

    Re: Time to build?

    I average 160 hours per instrument. An F5 is around 250.
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    Re: Stew mac -- waverly f-style mandolin tuners

    Yes, the back of the headstock should be completely flat, all the the down to the end of the tuner plate. Most tuners flex some when you tighten the screws if the headstock isn't flat.
  16. Re: PLEASE HELP! ABS Binding Bending Problems First Time Builder

    I've never had a problem bending laminates that I've made and I only give them a few days to gas off after laminating, but I've never used ABS. One thing that helps avoid kinking of the inner layers...
  17. Re: At what point in your build should you avoid heat and humidit

    Some builders who don't condition their whole shop use a conditioned box/closet etc. to store parts in while they're not working on them.
  18. Replies
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    Re: Curved truss rod?

    I did a bunch of tests with various rods too, and the straight compression rods seemed to work as well as curved ones, so that's what I used for about ten years until I switched to double-action...
  19. Re: Center line and neck dovetail offset... Am I in trouble?

    If you want confrontation, you should see me on the banjo forums...

    Another consideration as a builder is that when a client asks for a neck with a 1 1/4" nut, you quickly run out of space next to...
  20. Re: Center line and neck dovetail offset... Am I in trouble?

    Okay, here's what I was going to say-- it's not actually confrontational, I'm just always wary of saying anything that could be possibly be construed as "harshing" on Loars. I don't mean it as a...
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    Re: How do you rip the wood for your ribs?

    Agreed, the Safe-T-Planer isn't great for thin wood. To avoid blowing out the edges you can use a very narrow climb cut at the edge before proceeding with conventional cuts across the rest of the...
  22. Re: Center line and neck dovetail offset... Am I in trouble?

    I deleted this post— I feared it might raise hackles rather than furthering the conversation.
  23. Re: Center line and neck dovetail offset... Am I in trouble?

    I've always centered my neck on my F5s. I realize some purists may frown on this, but I prefer the appearance of having the little curved sides of the fretboard extender the same width on each side....
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    Re: How do you rip the wood for your ribs?

    Here's someone who set up their sander like yours as a thickness sander:

    https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/discussions/tool-talk/27228-ridgid-spindle-belt-sander-thickness-jig

    That might be...
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    Re: Fretboard/bridge/strings geometry

    If it's a small amount of tilt you can certainly compensate for it with the saddle height. I don't know if there's a particular cutoff, but if it's only, say, 1/64", I wouldn't be too worried about...
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