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    Re: Updating/Modernizing 1914 f2

    There can be a small improvement in sound, but I attribute at least most of it to the improvement in playability.
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    Re: Breedlove Rogue repair

    It would seem to me that if the binding extends below the joint between the top and the linings, this would complicate removing the top at the neck and tail blocks.
    You could cut away 1/8" of the...
  3. Thread: Oh dear

    by rcc56
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    Re: Oh dear

    What's wrong with installing a slightly thicker fingerboard?
    They probably orignally went thin to save on the cost of materials.
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    Re: Updating/Modernizing 1914 f2

    I've installed modern frets on dozens of old Gibson oval hole mandolins.
    No one has ever complained about the results.

    I get what I feel are the best results with wire with a crown of .080" wide...
  5. Thread: Oh dear

    by rcc56
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    Re: Oh dear

    A mandolin with hopelessly mis-placed frets.
    Tavy will have to tell us who the builder was.
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    Re: Breedlove Rogue repair

    I worked in a factory where a bean counter's decision to save 20 bucks per unit on parts cost the company $500 - $1000 per unit in warranty repairs every time the parts failed.

    And yes, I'm aware...
  7. Thread: Oh dear

    by rcc56
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    Re: Oh dear

    Looks about the same as the 1932 Gibson A-4 that I had to replace the fingerboard on a while back.
    Did the saw need service? Was it the operator's first day on the job? Or did he have the Monday...
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    Re: Breedlove Rogue repair

    I think that bolt-on necks on f-hole instruments is a pretty silly idea.

    I've repaired loose braces through the f-holes a couple of times. Dicey work, not much fun, and results in a rather sloppy...
  9. Re: High end Mandolin shops between Oklahoma and Nashville

    A long way out of the way, but Morgan Music in Lebanon Mo. has 3 Gibsons, an Ellis, and some Northfields in stock.

    In Nashville: Gruhn Guitars, Carter Vintage, and The Mandolin Store. Even...
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    Re: Neck joint on Martin bowlback?

    Pre-war Stella 12's in spruce and mahogany are bringing $10K US or more these days if they're in good shape.
    The pre-war birch models are bringing several thousand.
    Even 1960's models are worth...
  11. Re: Looking for advice for a 1918 Gibson Model A

    Your mandolin appears to be salvageable.
    I do this sort of work. I am in the Chattanooga area.
    You are welcome to pm me.
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    Re: Drop In Tuners For 1933 Gibson A

    If you're skilled at measuring and have a good rule, it's easier to determine which spacing you have if you measure from the first post to the last, instead of from the first post to the second. ...
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    Re: Drop In Tuners For 1933 Gibson A

    To clarify--

    The Stew-mac Golden Age tuners, part numbers #2511 and #2512, have the correct post spacing for Gibson A models made after the mid 1920's. These tuners can be recognized by the...
  14. Thread: Hybrid X Lattice

    by rcc56
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    Re: Hybrid X Lattice

    I have no opinion on the lapping question.

    I do have an opinion on lattice braced steel string guitars, since I've had a couple go across my workbench.
    My experience has been that they are prone...
  15. Thread: 1940's GIBSON f4

    by rcc56
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    Re: 1940's GIBSON f4

    Well, the whiskey spot mandolin is a fairly long drive for you, but it's do-able. You could do a weekend trip and hang out in the mountains while you're at it.
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    Re: Sorry, another Maandola string qeustion

    I haven't used the Thomastiks. If you go with more conventional strings, I recommend 12-20W-32-49 or 50 for an H-2. You might just have to experiment to find the tone that suits you. If you want a...
  17. Thread: 1940's GIBSON f4

    by rcc56
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    Re: 1940's GIBSON f4

    I found the one you're looking at. The listed price is actually higher than the one I linked to. That link is working now.
    For the extra money, you do get the fancier peghead and an original case,...
  18. Thread: 1940's GIBSON f4

    by rcc56
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    Re: 1940's GIBSON f4

    It's hard to see in the pictures, but there are a couple of spots on the back where it looks like a drop or two of whiskey marked the finish. It doesn't look bad, but it's there. We could only...
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    Re: Adding a pickguard to an Eastman

    I installed a Cumberland abbreviated guard on a Weber F-5 a few months ago. The process should be the same on an Eastman.

    A couple of holes will have to be drilled in the edge of the fingerboard...
  20. Thread: 1940's GIBSON f4

    by rcc56
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    Re: 1940's GIBSON f4

    I spent some hours with this mandolin many years ago and thought it was very good: reverb.com/item/52762666-gibson-f-4-1939-sunburst -- NFI-- I have no connection or experience with the seller.
    ...
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    Re: Gibson H2 Mandola

    Spann's work replaced the older serial number tables that had been in use for decades.

    That's because Spann was able to access some factory records that were not available when most of the...
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    Re: Modernizing an A-4. Yes or No?

    Removing and replacing a fingerboard always entails a certain amount of risk to an instrument, no matter how good the worker is.
    Unless there's a compelling reason to pull a fingerboard, I recommend...
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    Re: Gibson H2 Mandola

    According to Spann's Guide to Gibson, the factory order stamp comforms to 1914 and the serial number corresponds to 1915.
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    Re: Distressed Mandolin and Regular Playing

    All I will say about it is this:

    No finish: Bad for the instrument.
    Thick finish: Bad for the sound.
    Thin finish: Better for sound than thick finish.

    I will add that some of the big...
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    Re: A4 back side repair

    Misaligned joints require some method of pulling the instrument back into shape and holding it in position until after the glue is applied, the joint closed, and the glue has set. Sometimes it can...
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