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Type: Posts; User: amowry

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  1. Replies
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    Re: Dry Bending Sides

    I'd venture that one why reason why most luthiers don't use steam is that it gets the wood wetter then necessary, which makes figured wood more prone to breaking, and makes rippling more likely. In...
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    Re: Dry Bending Sides

    On the issue of the cells slipping vs. compressing: With figured maple, which we mandolin builders use most often, the "curl" enters and exits the faces of the wood repeatedly, so it effect each cell...
  3. Thread: lacquer problem

    by amowry
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    Re: lacquer problem

    To me it seemed like the incompatibility between shellac and the Cardinal lacquer was certainly exacerbated by excessive shellac thickness. It seems to be that Cardinal softens the underlying...
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    Re: Wrinkling purfling

    It helps to only heat the outside of the binding, so the outside layer will stretch but the purfling will resist compressing. Also try using as little heat as possible to get the job done.
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    Re: Olive oil staining on top?

    I would think naphtha would pull a lot of the oil from the inside. It's worth a try. If there's a little splotchiness left you could give the inside a light coat of mineral oil to blend it together.
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    Re: New Heiden Octave Short Scale

    Sweet!
  7. Thread: lacquer problem

    by amowry
    Replies
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    1,265

    Re: lacquer problem

    After having problems with shellac under Cardinal, I switched to vinyl sealer, and I like it much better than shellac. A lot of the literature talks about shellac sealer “bringing out the beauty of...
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    Re: Extended length drill bit

    Yep, most hardware stores carry aircraft bits.
  9. Thread: lacquer problem

    by amowry
    Replies
    29
    Views
    1,265

    Re: lacquer problem

    Yes, Cardinal definitely does not like shellac. I learned the hard way too. I think shellac can in general cause problems under lacquer, especially if it's applied too thick. A very thin wash coat is...
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    Re: Machining/Routing Celluloid

    Yes, it's probably time to replace the bit. Like Adrian said, if the bit is sharp and the celluloid is still getting hot, you can increase the feed rate or decrease the cutter speed. The idea with...
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    Re: Is my top caving in?

    Yep, I'd first just try pulling the saddle backward (reducing string tension just a bit if you can't do it under full tension), as it looks like there's some gap underneath the back of the bridge...
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    Re: What's up with USPS?

    I shipped instruments with USPS for fifteen+ years without a single issue, and then earlier this year they lost an instrument and broke another. I'm now using FedEx for stringed instruments. The...
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    Re: Photographing shiny things

    Outside in the shade on a cloudy day is easiest, as it gives you lots of well-diffused light. I got tired of depending on the weather, though, so I now take photos inside, but reflections can...
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    Re: Binding laminate

    Stew-Mac sells a binding laminator that works pretty well: https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Jigs_and_Fixtures_for_Guitar_Building_and_Repair/Binding_Laminator.html

    I use it...
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    Re: I am totally bummed out

    I would opt for hide glue rather than CA. If it's a clean break you can use masking tape to hold it in place while the glue dries, and hide glue will shrink and pull it tight. Hide glue is probably...
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    Re: Seam separation repair on Loar era F-4

    Tuners are great for all sorts of clamping-- I've used them for building rosettes:179654
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    Re: Is there "ideal" neck relief?

    Some will say that mandolins don't need any relief, but I prefer to have a little bit. If there's none at all, you risk having back-buzzing (buzzing of the string between the fretted note and the...
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    Re: Heads up! Nitrocellulose products dwindling

    That seems like a logical definition for oil varnishes, of course it would also include waterbase, polyesters, urethanes, etc. And it would make shellac and "spirit varnish" lacquers. Which is...
  19. Re: Soundboard transducer and internal cable noise

    That's what I do, just twist the jack gently as I tighten the nut to take up any slack.
  20. Re: suggestions/thoughts for someone wanting to learn inlay work

    If you like good old fashioned books, The Art of Inlay by Larry Robinson is a good resource.
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    Re: a little help here

    Yep, thinned hot hide glue worked into the crack by flexing it slightly.
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    Re: bits to cut inlays

    Ah, good to know. I didn't realize that was the case.
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    Re: Heads up! Nitrocellulose products dwindling

    The MSDS is here: http://www.shellacfinishes.com/msds-2/

    Most assuredly NOT non-toxic, though with the high solids content it's an improvement over nitro from an environmental and health...
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    Re: bits to cut inlays

    All great info from Marty, as always. The one thing I would add that I also do is slow down the acceleration on my machine when I'm cutting inlay (I think it's around 2"/s^2), so it's not jerking the...
  25. Re: IV A Style Mandolin Build - Back plate question

    It sounds a little thin to me. My quartersawn backs are typically around 0.16" thick in the center and get a little thicker closer to the neck joint. I would ask Ken about it-- he may have experience...
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