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Type: Posts; User: Rob Roy

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  1. Re: Considering applying a compound radius to my One And Only

    I'm with Nevin, a compound radius is unnecessary. All five of my mandos have a straight 12" radius, I find it to be a comfortable compromise and several of my guitars have that radius too. I did...
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    Re: "tinny" A string?

    I think Walt nailed it on this one. On my 5 builds so far, the A string has been the hardest to get a good tone out of. One thing that seems to help some is raising the bridge some on the treble...
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    Re: Gibson Mandola Restoration

    I will echo what others say about refinishing, it not only impacts the value of vintage instruments, but also the tone. In terms of pulling the back, putting it back together and getting everything...
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    Re: Feedback: First fret pulling job

    A good luthier/tech will break the sharp corners of the fret slot with a 3 corner file, making a little easier to set the frets and, more importantly, reduce chipout the next time the instrument is...
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    Re: Fret Files and Other luthier tools?

    re: fret files? I started out with the Gurian fret file. I find it takes a good bit of finger strength and leaves a fairly rough surface. Because I'm a builder and occasionally do fretwork for...
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    Re: Post a picture of what's on your bench?

    Interesting bracing. Where did you get the idea for the lattice bracing? I assume there's a slight arch induced in the X-brace.
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    Re: Pickup Suggestions Please

    I have a JJB installed in a guitar and recently installed K&K in a friend's mandolin. The K&K sounded fine with just a standard DI into a Loudbox Mini when we soundchecked the installation. The...
  8. Re: At what point in your build should you avoid heat and humidit

    Will the finished instrument live in a climate controlled environment? If so, then wood shrinkage may affect some of your joints. Perhaps not enough to compromise structural integrity, but maybe...
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    Re: Fret bevel angle, pictures Help?

    +1 on Sunburst's point about the edges. I use one of those little safe edge files from Stew Mac made for that purpose, and get the ends closer to hemispherical so the fingers don't catch on them.
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    Re: How do you rip the wood for your ribs?

    I would think if you get that Laguna tuned up well and adjust your fence for blade drift, you should be able to get very consistent resaws off of it. Just run the stock over the joiner after each cut...
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    Re: fretboard support opinion?

    I always was leery of that joint, gluing end grain maple to piece of another material, which was in turn glued to the end grain of the neck. I've seen a picture somewhere of someone putting a steel...
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    Re: Breaking in or Opening Up

    I think Charlie's observations sum it up pretty well. Is the mando finished with nitrocellulose lacquer? If so, then the sound definitely will change over time. Nitro consolidates and gradually...
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    Re: A couple of build questions

    Sealing the inside of the instrument to slow down humidity change makes sense but it's never traditionally been done in the violin or archtop world, not sure why.

    Gauze reinforcement of the F...
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    Re: Fret Size Opinions

    I'm another convert to EVO Gold FW74 and put it into my last two builds. I've played both of those mandos for for 3-4 years now and neither shows any sign of wear. Tonewise, the notes are clear and...
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    Re: DePaule Nouveau inlay advice

    In my estimation the pearl would have to be inside of standard (black?) binding. There's no way pearl is going to hold up to the bumps those areas get over time. You be asking for chips and loose...
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    Re: Sorry for this string height question

    Been there with Andrew and Marty more than once. I generally wimp out when I get to 0.005-0.006". With my old eyes, I hate cutting mando nuts (and that's with a good set of nut files)
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    Re: Transtint Dye for finishing HELP?

    You have all the colors you need to do your burst. I've only done a few but here's my latest attempt
    If you want to pop the grain on the maple back, dye it very dark (or at least amber) and sand...
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    Re: The real glue strength

    Sunburst's comment was in reference to the neck joint which has relatively little effect on tone. For that joint it's all about strength and reversibility. The area where vibration transference...
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    Re: Pickup or microphone?

    Pickups tend to have a strong attack (which mandolins do in general anyway), require a good preamp to sound good, and are harder to regulate your volume on. I prefer a decent microphone that I can...
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    Re: NMC, a great experience today

    From a student model to a German made violin is a big step. You're a good daddy Soliver, and daughters are indeed precious (I have two). Sticks are an important part of the game at her level, good...
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    Re: Sunburst practice/test - What happened here?

    To echo what the experts have already said:
    • That veneer felt smooth but wasn't sanded enough in the areas that came up dark. If you wet the wood with water or naptha, you'll see those areas...
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    Re: Band Saw Re-saw Fences

    Laguna makes nice stuff for sure. I think the real advantage of that fancy fence would be if you wanted to do multiple passes producing veneer slices of uniform thickness. You didn't mention species...
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    Re: dents in the neck

    If you end up refinishing, I would consider a satin finish. Fender does this on their production electrics now and the neck feels much slicker than gloss, which can get sticky. The satin finish does...
  24. Re: needing help with using leather dyes on a finish. and help?

    Yes, many people do this to get even color tones on spruce. You can scuff sand it back to smooth with say 400 or 600 grit before applying color. If sunbursting, it allows you to move the color around...
  25. Thread: tuner install

    by Rob Roy
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    Re: tuner install

    I have a violin peg reamer that I use for this. I go slowly until I get to the point that that bushing goes in to about a mm or so proud of face of the peghead with moderate pressure. I mark that...
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