Replacement Tuner and pup question.

Has anyone replaced the tuners on a Breedlove FF? The stock tuners are worm under. It’s an F style instrument. I have no idea what they use from the factory but the Grover 309’s are affordable.
These stock tuners are a bear to turn, and they don’t seem to stay in tune all that well either. Other than Waverlys, what replacement tuners have the reputation for their ease of use and reliability?

Also, any suggestions on a pick up?
K&K makes one for $99 that gets good reviews. I also hate to spend $350 plus for a Fishman type DI/preamp.

Thanks for your help guys!
ram

Grover 309's are pretty good. Sometimes you can find them on eBay for a good deal.

Grovers are good but have a bit shorter shaft on the the top tuners, so I'd measure yours and see what they are and check the specs on the Grovers against them.
Rubner tuners get high marks as do the new Schaller GrandTune series.
You can buy an equivalent JJB pickup for 1/3 the price as a K&K.
Fire-eye Red-eye preamp is awesome. $200-$225.
I'm partial to the Radial StageBug SB-4 Piezo DI ($80) but you'll need a phantom power source for it.
You could also do the Behringer ADI21 for $30 and use it in passive mode. Not as great sounding but it gets the job done

You should also check the nut of your instrument to make sure that the strings are not binding in the slots. That can cause issues with any brand of tuners

you may find that your existing tuners just need wearing in and lubrication, but guys like changing things ..
(hundreds of prior threads on same, attest to that)

next string change give the tuners a little service.. peg winders are a convenience..


Also repeated pickup threads
Piezo Pickups need a piezo hand shake pre amp unless your amp has a matching impedance input,

which measures in the mega ohms..

Tuners rarely are the reason for tuning issues. Nut slots mostly are.

eBay is the way to go $46.00 & change with free shipping.

for the nut slot files?

tuners - smooth turning, high ratio tuners are what i want and use, like rubner and grover.

nut slots - must be well cut, wider than the string, angled down towards the headstock because we want the string break-over angle at the front edge of the nut, which is where the fretboard scale length begins.

electrifying a mando - for me, it needs to be a super glued soundboard transducer duo set such as offered by k&k or jbe ... or an external condenser mic.