Lower action on bridge - brekke - may relate to more

Hi - I have a 2009 (I think) octave mando 22 inch scale - Weber with brekke bridge.
Appears to be the original bridge as there is no metal.
It is not low enough.
I want to take it to a luthier. Can the luthier lower it by making deeper string depths in the bridge? I also thought the luthier could trim down the two sort of triangle inserts or shave the bottom (though there is little to shave).

I am trying to decide if I should just buy another bridge.
Maybe Cumberland can figure it out! Or Bruce Weber in his new business in Montana.

Thoughts on this? Anyone else face the same thing?

I'd have t adjusted. reason is that if the base has already been correctly sanded to match the top of your instrument and it is a good tight fit, then taking something ff the top may be better. Have a local luthier just drill out another few millimetres and as long as it doesn;t go below the two screw holes, you should be OK.

Best to be 100% certain it is not the neck which has moved in any way. Maybe a pull on truss rod would be in order. Odd that it was correct originally and now gone wrong?

good luck

"Making deeper string depths on the bridge" is not an ideal solution to a high saddle. You can introduce string buzzing if the slots are cut too deep. It's better to reseat the base of the bridge or get a shorter bridge altogether and have it properly seated by a skilled luthier. Jimmy's advice to have your luthier eliminate any neck issues is also rather savvy.

Len B.
Clearwater, FL

Thank you. Neck seems rather straight. Good information about avoid the deeper slots. The brekke bridge is rather unusual - there are these two sort of triangular pieces of wood in the middle of it. - it seems that if they were shorter that this could solve it. Also the wood saddle could be sanded underneath. But as I think there is a consensus - I need to get this to a good luthier! Thanks!

You could try altering the pitch of the triangular pieces of wood and also the angles on the base of the saddle that sits atop the triangular pieces. There are plenty of plan B's here.

Len B.
Clearwater, FL

Thanks Len! I thought about those things but was not sure. It makes perfect sense!
Best,
AB

I have dropped the height of these brekke bridges by removing/reshaping the triangle wood pieces, and removing wood from the bottom of the wood saddle that works with the 2 angular pieces.

It is possible to shorten the wedges to get a lower saddle height if the saddle has not bottomed out at the lowest position of the wedges. It is also possible to sand the bottom of the saddle to get a lower height. Either of those solutions may be problematic. I don't recommend sanding the angled edges of either the saddle or the wedges. The wedges can be made shorter by sanding the straight edges that face the adjustment screws. The saddle may be sanded on the flat bottom edge. Either of these solutions may reduce the contact area between the saddle, the wedges and the base. If the intonation cuts are deep enough, you can also shorten the top of the saddle without having to redo the compensation.

The preferred solutions would be to replace the saddle with a shorter saddle or get a shorter bridge. When I sell a bridge and when Weber sold instruments with that bridge, a second saddle was sent with the instrument or bridge. The bridge was fitted with the saddle that was closest to the preferred playing height, at that time in the instrument's life. The other saddle was/is intended for use if the instrument changes over time. Unfortunately, the other saddle is often lost or discarded.

In your case, AB, do you have the second saddle. It's possible that your bridge has the tall saddle and the short saddle would solve your problem. Normally, this should be a warranty problem. Have you contacted Weber? In any case, I can send you a shorter saddle - custom if necessary.

Vern Brekke
Bridger Products