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I strongly favor the lower one in the picture; the narrower one.
Why?

-It has plenty of figure that will show up under a finish, the grain runs straight through the piece, and it is exactly...

Choose aesthetically. For one thing, you'll probably break or damage the set you want to use unless you have a lot of experience. For another, as long as they're 1.5mm or thicker, you have plenty of...

The old Forum software has been reinstalled. But I wasn't done meddling just yet. I saw some things in the other version and decided they had their place here so changes have occurred in the...

Have a look at this video of mine- rosewood sides with maple bindings- similar problem.
If you skip to about 5 mins in, you'll see the bit that you want.

https://youtu.be/-6H3pQbei2Q

Hope it...

Whenever I notice lifting splinters (during pulling frets) I glue them bac with drop of CA immediately after fret removal - making sure I won't lose them. Missing splinters get filled with drop of CA...

If you've got some ebony sanding dust, you could put it in there and wick a little super glue over it. Leave it proud of the surface. Do this after the fret is set in place! Then take an utility...

I usually bend the wire not as a long piece but after I have cut it to slightly oversize, Derek. I grip the tang gently at one end in flat-nosed pliers (or even my mini cutters, taking care not to...

It is nearly impossible to install frets without some distortion of their shape. Seating them fully and securely into well fit slots goes a long way toward making them level and even, but getting...

The first one is too tapered to really work for bushings. If you are reaming a hole for an end pin or peg you need the peg to be the same taper as the hole that will be reamed. These are usually...

I bought a $50 reamer about 30 years ago and I still use it at least once a week for guitar related repair. It was a lot of money, but I've more than gotten my money's worth. I was at Harbor...

I cut it with a jig saw before going on. Unlike everyone else I put the full overlay on so it looks like a paddle and cut the peghead shape with the overlay on, then rout for binding.

I also precut the hole. I like to use allen head nuts so that the pocket can be made as small as possible. I just made 2 mandos with no truss rod, just 2 glued up 1/8" x 1/2" carbon fiber rectangular...

I cut it out before I attach the overlay to headstock.

Simple. I set the depth of cut to just a tiny bit more than the thickness of the overlay, and since I know where the pocket is, I can draw the cut with a pencil, then route around the edge of the...

I can't think of any structural reason.
Other than simply aesthetics, however, there is the glue joint to consider (actually a structural reason in a way) I want side grain at the glue joint...

Not really, just good glue joints.


Any appropriate and good quality glue is fine, the quality of the joint is much more important.


Probably, a little bit.

I found that acrylic templates speed up the process of redrawing the contour lines after each carving/scraping/sanding.
150996

I use a marking caliper. It looks like a light duty violin caliper, it can be set to a predetermined thickness, it has a soft lead (like pencil lead) so that it can make a mark, like a contour line,...

Whatever your process is for gauging as you work, you really need to measure with some kind of deep-access calipers frequently. There are too many ways to misjudge your thickness, and taking the...

This may help you if you study the photos carefully.
http://www.apitiusmandolins.com/A-Model%20Top%20&%20Back%20Plate%20Carving%20page.html

I have found that a 1/2" thick soft foam pad on a quality 5" random orbital sander is very handy when you get to that stage. The soft foam conforms to the dome contour while evening out...

But yeah... lots of sandpaper... no matter how good you are with a scraper, there's still sanding you have to do. The scraper, on a carved top, just eliminates the need for 80 & 150 grit and you get...

Id also bring the center to 18mm to start but would try to plan on finishing things out closer to the 15-16mm mark depending on stiffness. Just don't start the inside until all is final on the...

There's no problem with using wedge shaped wood. The distortion is actually smaller than you think. You won't be able to drill the holes or route the steps as precisely as you mark them over the...

I make the center thickness just about where it needs to be - 18mm. So sand it down in the middle some more and the contours won't be so distorted.