Thanks Michael! 
Michael Pastucha wrote: "JL277z, is that electric a six string with just five strings on it?"
Yes, regular 6 string Strat-copy guitar, but only 5 strings used.
Capo is at 5th fret, for 19-inch scale length (slightly longer on bass side, I have the bridge saddles moved all the way back on several strings). The capo pretty much lives at the 5th fret permanently, seldom any reason to move it. I used to use 3rd fret capo instead, but advancing arthritis makes the 5th fret shorter scale more attractive.
I could easily go for an actual 19-inch scale 5-string neck & toss the capo, but it would have to be a custom build (eek, $$$) 
and I'm too cheap to spend that kind of money. I wouldn't know how to graft an existing peghead onto a shortened neck, especially with truss rod etc. What I have works ok as-is, at least for my casual uses.
Michael Pastucha wrote: "What string gauges are you using for the various strings?"
I put together a set of strings mix-and-match from two different sets of stock Fender strings: Fender 3250LR (09-11-16-26-36-46) and Fender 3250R (10-13-17-26-36-46). I don't remember exactly what I did there, I'm going to eventually have to buy a dial caliper to measure the strings that I have on it right now, so I'll know what to put on it at next string change. I had that written down somewhere, long lost of course. These strings are over a year old 
(I just looked up the email receipt to check when I bought them), doesn't seem like it's been that long, no wonder they seem harder to tune now, duh! I dislike changing strings, I put it off as long as possible... if it still plays, I play it. 
Surprisingly, I haven't yet broke an 09 1st string, that high "B" (capo 5) 'feels' really tight both at the tuning peg & also how the string feels under the fingers. I probably ought to get an 08 for that, but I haven't got around to it yet.
The rest of the strings get more and more slack/loose as you go towards the bass side of the strings. I actually *prefer* the slack strings, because I like to bend notes. 
Once, a few years back, I actually put on properly gauged (heavier) strings suitable for GDAE without massive bridge-saddle adjustments, but I found that I didn't like them! The heavier strings just sounded too 'tight'. I took them off after a fair test run, and went back to using the much looser strings.
The reason I'm able to get away with using such slack strings, is because of the stock individually-adjustable bridge saddles that many (all?) of these Strat-style guitars have, even the cheap ones. Very convenient! The equivalent of sliding a mandolin bridge back towards the tailpiece, but customized for each individual string. Without that, some of the strings would fret way too sharp.
I originally had the 6th string tuned to a low C, for full fifths CGDAEB, but found that (at least on this electric) the low C would "ring"/sustain too much all the time which sounded clashy, so I damped that entire string with a little piece of foam rubber wedged underneath the string at the end of the fretboard. So there are 5 playable strings.
If anyone's thinking of doing this on an electric, you can start (at first) with just your existing guitar strings to see if you like it, for the capo-at-5th-fret GDAE part (but don't try for a high B with anything bigger than an 09, even that is pushing it I think). But especially on the 5th, 4th, & 3rd strings you will need to move those bridge saddles way back, to play in tune.
The other adjustment I eventually made (not right away), was to adjust the pickup height (another simple adjustment) - I moved the treble side of the pickups closer to the strings, and the bass side further away from the strings. Otherwise, the bass strings were way too loud in comparison to the treble strings, for flatpicking fiddle-tunes where the melody is usually on the treble strings. These cheap guitar pickups have non-adjustable pole-pieces, with weak 2nd string because its pole-piece sets down lower than the others. So I just slant the pickups. If I were more motivated, I'd swap out those pickups for some better ones, and/or take a chance on disassembling them to modify them. But I've gotten used to the weak 2nd string and adapted my playing to it, just pluck the neighboring bass strings extra-lightly.
I do like having the high "B" string, 
not only for what would ordinarily be the 7th fret of the E string in GDAE, but also for some of the fretted notes on the "B" string. Once in a while I do an octave-higher run or variation up there just for fun. Seldom go past the 5th fret though.
(Hope that's not too much info, couldn't think how to condense it down without omitting potentially useful info.) 
