Vintage Non F5 Gibson Mandolins and Truss Rod Q

[firsttrain]

This thread is just basically seeking opinions on different vintage Gibson mandolin models... i.e., which model or models you love and why (particularly based on playability and tone). I exclude L. Loar era F5s, because most people can't afford them. I realize this is a very open, subjective and broad question... just interested in people's thoughts. I've never played a pre '45 Gibson, so I really don't know much other than from vids I've watched, I really love the look and sound of early F4s (I actually think the sound hole with that shape is great looking).

One specific question: I read or saw somewhere that 1921 was the first year for truss rods (may be remembering that incorrectly). Q: how much does this affect playability in pre tross rod mados?

[Jim Garber]

I played a Loar era snakehead A4 at Mandolin Brothers earlier this year that was to die for IMHO. I have also liked the few A2Z mandolins I have played. In general of the pre-truss rod mandolins 1921 seems to be an excellent year. I have played a good nuch of those and they haven't yet failed me. Main difference in the pre-truss rod models is that the neck is chunkier.

[stevem]

Adjustable bridge with the Loar eras as well. I am no sonic expert, but I suspect that impacts tone more than the presence of a truss rod.

I have a 22 F4 and 23 A1. Love them both. The A1 is a bit softer and sweeter, more harplike and tons of sustain that gives it an otherwordly tone. The F4 has ample sustain as well, but a fuller, brighter sound with more volume. Both sound pure and clean; not gravelly or throaty. I unfortunately have to sell one soon probably--trying to figure out a way to keep both.

I've owned a teens A3 and F2 as well. The A3 was sort of a dog with a slightly bent neck and weaker tone. Loved the F2; great all around mandolin with a very classic oval hole sound.

[pefjr]

IMO, I prefer the pre TR, but any of those ovals are great mandos, with a few exceptional sounding. I have an A4 that has that exceptional sound, a 1917. I have had two A models that also were great, different years. I wouldn't be afraid to buy any teen model, if the price is reasonable. I also had an exceptional F2. The F4 is a different wood, so............, still never heard a bad one.

[allenhopkins]

Considering "bang for the buck," some of the postwar A-50's are real bargains. And I've gotten much mileage out of my c. 1910 3-point F-2.

[BradKlein]

The adjustable truss rod doesn't really affect 'playability', if that is part of your question. Teens A models are usually OK with medium strings. The neck is not that long and is 'reinforced' with a maple or cherry reinforcement (triangular in cross section) beneath the ebony or rosewood fingerboard. It's pretty darn solid. Neck shape and width does vary from the teens through the 1930s, with the Loar-era bringing slimmer necks for the most part. But there is substantial variation.

Gibson made so many - 50,000 or so by WWII - that they remain very reasonably priced to this day, when you consider the cost of buying something of equivalent from a contemporary builder.

[mandroid]

I have a '22 paddle head A4 with a TR, and a nickel plated TRC,

I suppose they wanted to highlight it's addition.

got a plain brown non TR A 0, its just different.. aluminum upper bridge,

and wider grain on the spruce on the top. it's from '22 too.