View Full Version : Adding an abbreviated pickguard
JimRichter
Jan-25-2005, 5:33pm
I've gone through the message board archives and haven't quite found the answer to my problem
When you drill 2 pin holes for an abbreviated pickguard, are you drilling completely below the fingerboard/binding, through part of the binding, or entirely within the width of the binding? I know that the pickguard needs to be below fingerboard level and the tip starts at the 15th fret. Main problem is making sure I drill the pin holes at the right height/area of the neck.
If someone could post a picture of the holes in the side of their mando neck, I'd appreciate it.
Jim
Scotti Adams
Jan-25-2005, 6:48pm
Jim..I believe your holes should be drilled below the binding in the fingerboard extender block...thats the way I have always seen it done....well..at least on the mandos I have owned...
Rob Grant
Jan-25-2005, 7:21pm
Here's where I drill the holes with my own instruments and the abbrivated pickguards that I make...
(Happy Australia Day!!!)
Gail Hester
Jan-26-2005, 12:22am
Methods vary but I drill and tap two holes in the extension and mount the abbreviated pick guard with two screws. I line it up so that it’s level with the scoop on the fret board so that it’s a little lower than a standard guard but out of the way.
Gail Hester
Jan-26-2005, 12:25am
Showing the orientation. This seems to work real well.
Loars were drilled right through the fingerboard, look for the other Monroes mandolin in the Mandolin Archive, there is one pic that shows the pins. I personally always drill below the board to the extension and only into the piece glued to the bottom of the pickguard.
thistle3585
Jan-26-2005, 9:13am
What diameter of rod do people use? #Steel or brass?
Darryl Wolfe
Jan-26-2005, 9:21am
Loars were drilled dead center on the black line of the triple bound fingerboard..this place the 3/32" dia pin right on/tangent to the neck surface. 3/32 is the size of a certain size of finishing nail. The Loar pins were of this soft malleable steel. I use 3/32" SS dowel pin..no fuss no cutting, no rust
sunburst
Jan-26-2005, 9:26am
The Gibsons were steel. Often, just brads or small finish nails from the hardware store. That's one of the reasons those things can be so hard to remove - rust.
I use 1/16" bronze rod (for brazing, from a welding shop). I would use stainless steel if I could find it.
And I like to drill the holes in the extender, under the fingerboard.
Also, the Gibsons were drilled at an angle, down into the extender, and the nails were bent. I prefer to drill straight in.
[EDIT]
Aha!
Darryl, we were typing at the same time. Where do you get your SS?
Darryl Wolfe
Jan-26-2005, 11:13am
I go to a place in Augusta that is a big bolt and screw supply store. They have the "dowels" or drift pins in many sizes and lengths..I use 3/32 x either 1/2 or 5/8..either works fine. They are nicely machined with chamfered tips
The Loar era instruments used a 3/32 pin which was a cut off nail...I have seen the earlier ones though (as you mention) with the whole nail type deal of smaller dia that is bent..and usually rusty
Okay... this might be a goofy idea, http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif but what about embedding some rare earth magnets in the fingerboard or extension and a couple more in the pick guard. Those magnets have some serious holding power, but removal would be quick and possibly invisible. I wonder how much force it would take to bump it off. http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/rock.gif
I like the idea of SS dowel pins too... no rust, already cut to length, pretty precise diameter.
Paul Doubek
sunburst
Jan-26-2005, 1:46pm
Paul, I might steal your idea and try that on a mock-up and see how well it works. It might be an option for some people if it stays put well enough.
I suspect there would have to be a padded "leg" extending to the top of the mandolin to keep finger preasure form levering the guard loose.
thistle3585
Jan-26-2005, 2:52pm
Wouldn't magnets interfere if you wanted to put a pickup on it?
sunburst
Jan-26-2005, 3:05pm
Come to think of it, those magnets are pretty strong, they might interfere with the steel treble strings. Might try to fret those notes on the extender only to have the strings stay down! http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/laugh.gif
John... I was going to steal your Dremel base design, so we're even! http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif If you try it, let me know how it works out. I had actually considered whether they would be strong enough to dampen the treble strings... I doubt it would have any effect if the magnets were in the fingerboard extension. Magnetic fields weaken exponentially with distance (IIRC) so I think they would be far enough away, but wouldn't really know unless I played with it. http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/rock.gif
I had also thought about the "leg" to keep the pickguard from being levered off... I guess you would want a leg to land on the rim so as not to deaden the top. In fact, I considered that you might plant another magnet or two underneath the top at the rim for a removable full sized pickguard. That could really puzzle someone using a steel blade to remove the top later.
Then you sell a line of picks with RE magnets in them so they can stick to a magnet in the peg head, and RE magnetic capos, and... sometimes I get just a little carried away! http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif
Paul Doubek
Yonkle
Jan-30-2005, 10:35am
I added a Steve Cumberland Abreviated guard to both my F5's. I think Steve use's a 1/16 nail for the pin. I mounted mine almost level with the "Scoop" in the fingerboard extention. I made it a hair higher than the scoop, thinking over time the weight of my hand and banging on the guard would maybe make it bow a bit downward and end up level with the "scoop" over time. The pin's however are very strong and it looks like it will not sag or bend much if any it all. If you don't have a scoop it is just put on slightly lower than the fingerboard. I drill right through the binding. I had to find a long extension for my drill at (HOme Depot) because the drill gets in the way by the points on the mandolin. With the extention I had plenty of room to work with. JD
Yonkle
Jan-30-2005, 10:38am
Another angle (I see I need to Dust my mando) YOu can see here it is a hair higher than the scoop, the weight of my hand does bow it down a hair but my hand is not resting there much, just touching a little.
Yonkle
Jan-30-2005, 10:41am
LAST SHOT
jim simpson
Jan-30-2005, 11:26am
Yonkle,
You were smart to get a long drill bit to do yours. I didn't and found that I had to drill mine down at a slight angle. This then required me to bend the nails to level out my pickguard. It seems very secure so I think I'll be all right but next time I will get the longer drill bit.
Jim