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View Full Version : Radius Bridge Suggestions?



jeffyork
Jan-22-2005, 12:40pm
Thinking about replacing my bridge with a radiused one to match my fretboard. Any suggestions (brands, pitfalls, experience)?

Thanks,

Jeff

Chris Baird
Jan-22-2005, 1:20pm
I can't play a bridge with a radius tighter than 16". But, some go 12" and have no problem. The easiest bridge to play, imo, is a flat one. But unless you have a compound radiused board the outside strings get high up the neck.

diamond ace
Jan-22-2005, 4:08pm
Is the bridge on you mandolin the original? Because if it is then the bridge should be radiused to mathc the fingerboard. If it is original then the builder should have known better. As for the suggestion part I hade a "traditional" Brekkee and I loved it! I will be ordering one for my new mandolin soon. If you go to webers website and just call the number Paula Jean will take your order over the phone (with credit card) and shipp very promptly. You will need to know what degree of radius your fingerboard is and how tall your bridge is. The hight measurment will be from the center of the top to the bottom of the strings. You will however have to hand fit the bridge to the top once you get it but thats no problem.

acousticphd
Jan-22-2005, 4:09pm
Jeff,
Greg Boyd's website sells a couple of radiused bridges and bridge saddles. I thought I remembered seeing another source, but can't recall it now.
Another thing you might try is to carefully deepen the string slots so that you have the action you want toward the edges of the fingerboard.

Lefty&French
Jan-23-2005, 1:11pm
You can try this one :
http://www.cumberlandacoustic.com/index.html

mandroid
Jan-23-2005, 8:22pm
Altering the radius was part of the setup work that was done by my friendly, local instrument tech's repair shop.
adding a bit of curve; sanding off some wood and recutting string slots is a modest task.
adjustment to the arch on the bass side, lowered the 'G's action rather than the other approach,just cutting the slots deeper.
If you feel the original bridge sux, too,thats another issue. http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif
http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mandosmiley.gif

mandough
Jan-24-2005, 1:01pm
I second the bridges at Cumberland Music. Just bought two radiused bridges and fretboards from Steve. Great workmanship and accurate. He'll also slot the bridges for you for an extra $5.

Mando Medic
Jan-25-2005, 8:13am
Here's another vote for Cumberland Acoustic bridges by Steve Smith. They are great. I try to keep them in stock at all times. Kenc

Steven Stone
Jan-25-2005, 9:54am
[the bridge should be radiused to mathc the fingerboard. If it is original then the builder should have known better.]

I must beg to disagree.

Using a flat radiused bridge with a curved radiused fingerboard can be a superior way to go.

Radiused bridges put strings on a curve where your pick strikes them. this can be a major problem for your right hand.

I much prefer flat radiuses at the bridge, as do many fine pickers I know.

Different strokes, girls http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

Doug Edwards
Jan-26-2005, 10:38pm
Well I'm confused, if not just ignorant. What would be a flat radiused bridge? Are they not flat or radiused or are you referring to the difference in the degree of radius?

Steven Stone
Jan-26-2005, 11:21pm
[What would be a flat radiused bridge? Are they not flat or radiused or are you referring to the difference in the degree of radius? ]

My reference to "flat radiused" is a bridge that has no radius.

But a bridge's radius can range from flat to noticeably radiused. I prefer flat, but it's really a personal matter. http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif