Building a case

[Bluemando]

While I was carving my plates last night, I started thinking that since I am making the mandolin I should make the case as well. I am not sure what materials to use. Has anybody here done it, and would you explain how it was done?
Thanx
Terry Sebastian

[sunburst]

Yes, I have done it. I wont do it again. Too many hours.
This topic came up at least once before, and there were some people who had built cases and recomended the experience. Perhaps a search will still find the thread, or perhaps some of them will chime in here.

heres the thread (http://www.mandolincafe.net/cgi-bin/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=7;t=11597;hl=build+and+case )

I got curious and found it.

[grsnovi]

Terry,

I would ask what you want from the case?

You could build a very solid, solid wood, carved top, bent sides, etc... that would make people stop and stare. The technique for doing so ought to be somewhat apparent if you are also building an instrument.

If the question is: how do I build a case similar to something I might get from TKL, thats another question. I have never crunched such a case, but they won't withstand THAT much. The top/back and sides are likely a heat-pressed composite board (like Masonite). They could also be a made any number of other ways.

You would form a curved sided case in a manner similar to forming the sides of an instument - in a mold (you were planning on tooling up to make these by the 100's right?)

I would assume that top/sides are glue joined using bent "stays" which would serve to add surface area to the top edge of the sides.

This would all then be upholstered with your choice of "Tolex" like fabric-backed vinyl. Into which you now glue additional "velour" upholstered sides/backs which may have been padded with foam inserts or cotton batting.

Add hinges and clasps and voila!

As sunburst says above, it certainly can't be "cost effective" if your objective is to simply create a suitably strong device for carrying/storing your instrument. If your objective is to create a wooden piece of functional art, there's that as a goal. If your goal is to replicate what case companies like TKL do for a living, you have a project ahead of you!!

[grsnovi]

To illustrate:

http://hometown.aol.com/bobdtown/case_build.jpg

Step 1 shows the three basic pieces of a case design using composites
Step 2 shows the sides formed with the "stays" bent
Step 3 shows the bottom glued in place
Step 4 shows the outside upholstery with black "Tolex"
Step 5 shows a plush insert glued in place

The combination of the bottom glued in place coupled with the formed insert give the structure some stability. The further assumption is that the sides would be bent in a mold and the curve would give them some stability too.

[Bluemando]

Thanx Gary, the illustration is helpful.
As far as what I want from the case, I would like to build something eye-catching (hopefully the mandolin will be also, but I'm going for sound first), but functional. The main thing I am worried about is the weight.
I want it to give the instrument a good deal of protection, but not to weigh a ton.
Terry

[grsnovi]

Which would lean you towards the lighter-weight of a TKL-style fabrication rather than the easier to build solid wooden case. You could easily build a "tank" in gorgeous solid wood, that would weigh a ton! The problem with building the lighter weight case would be making the effort economically feasible. As in: why should I spend time doing this? I'd rather perfect my mando building skills by doing Bluemando #2 rather than invest tons of time into building a light-weight, sturdy functional case cheaper/better than what you could buy.

At one point I seriously was considering doing a laid-up fiber glass and resin rework of the dry-rotted "clown boot" for my old Vega. So, a fiber glass shell case would also be pretty easy (relatively).

[Bluemando]

Good point about saving the $$$ for the next build. Maybe Ill give it a shot though. I am probably thinking way to far ahead of myself. After all I've only just finished carving the plates for the first mando I've ever built. Guess I will cross (or burn) that bridge when I get there.:D

[grant_eversoll]

I have been thinking about building a case also, Myself...I would go with a rectangel outter shell. Maybe build it anvil case style.

I have not really gave it much thought but that design would be eaiser than trying to form one...for mr it would anyway.

[Rob Anderson]

Hi Terry,
I make cases for a living for instruments such as mandos, lap steels, and violins. All custom and one at a time. It is not terribly hard and I really enjoy it, but I would not tackle case making with the intent of saving money- my cases cost $50 in materials and that's with all hardware at really good wholesale prices.
I use 1/4" birch plywood and finger-joint the corners. You could use rabbet or even a simple butt joint would be fine.
Cases are wrapped with any of the tolex or vinyls attached with contact cement. I do alot of real lacquered tweed and other fabrics, in that case I use Super 77 spray adhesive-really expensive but you don't have to wait a half hour for it to dry.
Here's one tip that will save you alot of hassles.Make the box and then cut it in half rather than making a separate top and bottom.
Well theres a few ideas to get you going, if you are serious about building one I'd be happy to walk you through it in detail or make whatever you need.
take care
Rob Anderson-Dunamis Designs

[JiminRussia]

If I were going to do it, I believe that I'd try to build it the way fiberlass boats are built. First a male mold is made. I doesn't have to be anything special, just something that will support the weight of the fiberglass cloth, matting and the rosin. Cardboard would work just fine. Chicken wire works prety well also. Just make an exact copy of the ouside of what it is you want to make, then stretch somethng over the mold to make a flat surface. It shouldn't be anythng like cloth or anything pourous that will absorb the epoxy hat you are goin to put on, but it should be able to acept the parting compound that comes next. Next comes a parting layer. This is something that you can get at a good marine supply house. It is sort of like a wax that will allow the mold to separate from the finished hull, or in this instance a case. Next comes the itchy part. It is a layer of fiberglass cloth. There are several diferent weights of cloth o choose from. I would guess that the lightest weight cloth would be just fine for a case. Next comes the epoxy. That's the sticky part. Just paint it on with a disposable bush and then roll it in with a paint roller to be sure that the epoxy penetrates the cloth all the way through. The heavier the cloth, the more rolling required. Mix the epoxy carefully following the directions and choose an epoxy that has a long cure time so that you don't have to roll the whole thing out in 15 minutes. Next comes the matting. Matting is similar to the cloth except that it is courser and not a pretty. It is designed to add mass to the stucture. It costs about 1/3 as much as the cloth and after the epoxy dries is just as strong. Add as many layers of matting and/or cloth as you want. you can make it as strong (heavy) or as light (not so strong) as you like. The last layer should be cloth and roll it out nice and pretty. Don't leave any voids in the cloth (roll out all of the bubbles). Let it cure for a day or so. Sand it down nice and flat, pull the male mold out of it (this is where the parting compound works) And, VOILA! you have half of a fiberglass box. If you already have the foam insert, you could just skip the parting compound and fiberglass over the ouside of that for a quicker job, but the male mold is re-usable in case you want to go into production. If you want to really get fancy, use very thin strips of wood instead of the fiberglass and matting. It will be stronger than steel and look good as well (the epoxy is transparent). Want it bullet-proof? Use Kevlar cloth instead o fiberglass. Want it light and strong and have a lot of money to spend? Use carbon fiber cloth instead. It is messy as hell, but it is realy prety easy to do. Be prepared to throw away whatever it is you are wearing while working with the epoxy and wear a long sleeved shirt while working with the cloth and matting. Oh yes, a big box of those disposable plastic gloves too.When it comes time to clean the rollers between layers, don't bother. just let them set up and then set fire to them. Steel doesn't burn, but epoxy does.