Binding cement $$ vs quality.

[Keith Newell]

For a long time now I have used the binding cement that Stew-Mac sells because I buy binding, fret material, stains and tuners from them. It is a bit expensive. Does anybody know of a place I can get it cheaper, or one that works as good? I used to use some Duco long ago but heard they changed their formula or something and just started buying the Stew-mac stuff because I already had supplies coming and saved on shipping.
Keith Newell
http://www.newellmandolins.com

[Jim Hilburn]

Duco is basically acetone with some kind of plasticizer in it and works fine on Stew-Mac binding. There's also a brand that I've seen at Hobby Lobby and Michael's called Bond cement that seems to be about the same thing.
I found out the hard way that you can't order binding from LMI and interchange it with Stew-Mac's. Theirs is vinyl and Duco doesn't touch it.
You can also thin Duco with acetone. I do this to laminate bindings, but also if it gets old, you can rejuvenate it.But if you get it in the tube, it's just right for binding the instrument.

[sunburst]

I used to use Duco right out of the tube, but something did change, and I started adding some acetone all the time. It makes it more like it used to be.
I put it in used superglue bottles, and add a little acetone. I don't measure, just eyeball it.
I find that Sigment(sp?) works better for non-celluloid bindings.

[Hans]

I used to use Duco, but switched to Weldon #16 a number of years ago. I find it has a sort of "contact cement" property to it, a better tack.

[Desert Rose]

Some production factories (no names) often use clear non colored strips of celluloid melted in straight acetone for binding cement.

Other production shops use straight acetone alone.

Still others use a Duco style (model glue style) cement disolved highly with acetone.

Scott

[tortispik]

Hi,
#Just wanted to say for the past 6 or 7 years I've been using a product called WeldBond for plastic,celluloid,and wood bindings on my guitars with excellent results.Non-toxic,dries clear,no fumes.Check the webite,www.weldbond.com
Thanks

[Michael Lewis]

A few years ago I found DUCO to be inconsistant from tube to tube. Some were clear, some were yellowish, some were milky and a bit brownish. It makes me wonder if they contracted with different manufacturers. Lately it is nice and clear, works very well especially with celluloid bindings. Remember that the directions are to apply a coat to bare wood and let it dry first before applying the glue for the binding. It makes a big difference in the bond strength. The trick with DUCO is to apply it quickly and evenly, then get the bindings in place and taped. The quicker and cleaner you can do this the neater job you will have. Any of you watch the Benedetto video about making archtop guitars? It shows Bob putting binding on, and he doesn't waste any time. I often have my wife put the tape on as I put the bingings in place. 4 hands are better than 2 in this case, because I usually use multiple bindings, not the pre laminated stuff that Stew/Mac sells. I do use their bindings, just not the Gibson style stuff. (usually)

[Chris Baird]

I've never put it on the wood to dry first. Do you wipe it on then wipe it off real good? I'd be afraid of gaps,letting the glue dry on the wood.

[Jim Hilburn]

The Bennedetto video changed my life as far as installing binding. When I first started building I got instruction from Mike Kemnitzer. He used strips of innertube to wrap around and hold the binding and I did that for most of my early instruments, but now I think taping is the only way to go and I wouldn't be surprized if Nugget doesn't use tape now also.
I haven't noticed any discolored Duco, and I think it works good enough that I've never even ordered any Stew-Mac glue. I can get it at Lowes 1/4 mile from home.
I do 7-8" sections. Fill the notch with glue so it squeezes out everywhere. I let it sit that way for 20-30 seconds, the wipe up all the excess. thats the most important part. Any excess will melt the binding in place.If you are doing blk./whi. stripes, you don't want that.
Then you can immediately move on to the next section. I remove a couple of tape strips and pull the already glued binding away to start the next section so there are no unglued gaps.

[Keith Newell]

This is what I do, first I take whatever binding cement Im using and thin it 50% with acetone and use a fine paint brush and coat the binding channel. Then when I do the binding I use the Stew-mac binding tape working as fast as I can then wrap the instrument with the luthier rubber bands that I think I got from LMI. I've never had a problem with binding coming loose or with it not fitting well.
One other thing I use is a good 1500 watt hair dryer to heat and bend the binding prior to gluing. I used to use a heat gun but that can cause problems with some binding...:)
I started this thread because the Weldon #16 I'm using is kinds spendy so was wondering what others were using. Duco worked good for me but I also found yellow to light brown mixes of the stuff then would find the nice clear stuff.
Keith
http://www.newellmandolins.com

[Michael Lewis]

Chris, when you apply DUCO directly to the wood and let it dry it nearly disappears as it drys up. If there are any lumps in the ledge just take a file to them. Just try it and see for yourself. Once I got used to following the directions I really like DUCO. This stuff drys up to nearly nothing, so I slather it on as I apply the binding and quickly wipe up the squeeze out.

[Chris Baird]

Thanks, I'll try it.

[Luthier]

[QUOTE]Remember that the directions are to apply a coat to bare wood and let it dry first before applying the glue for the binding.

This is the key...

Don