Questions for the experienced pickers...

[BrazAd]

I'm a guitar flatpicker for 12 years. I got MAS about 10 years ago, and ordered a custom A mando from Ron Cole. He did a great job, the only thing that ruined it for me was something I requested - a 1-1/4" nut width. I messed around with it for a year or two, sold it and went back to guitar picking.

I've got MAS again, but with a more limited budget this time. I've got a lead on two different Eastman 505 models... one a couple of years old with the larger headstock, the other a new one with the more streamlined headstock.

1) As a guy with big fingers who prefers a 1-3/4" nut on his guitars, will the 1-1/16" nut of the Eastman be too small? Or should I hold out to find something with a 1-1/8" nut?

2) As a lefty player, would I be better off to go after an older mandolin and convert it to lefty?

3) A minor geek question here... does the different headstock shapes make a whit of difference tonally?

Opinions/suggestions/criticisms welcomed... :)

Thanks,

Gary

[Steve Ostrander]

I'm not sure I understand, did you not like the 1-1/4" nut width? I think you should try to play an Eastman and find out for yourself if it's too narrow. There are a couple production mandolins that come with wide nut--Collings comes to mind--but they may be outside of your budget.

There are many more left-hand models available now than in the past, so your chances of finding an older lefty and converting are slimmer, I believe, and with your budget in mind I would go for a more recent mando.

The headstock question is debatable, but I personally believe the shape makes no difference. However, mass probably does. But since most headstocks are similar in mass, it probably makes no difference. Others may dissagree.

[Folkmusician.com]

would equal a 1-3/4 guitar nut based on the amount of strings. 1.75 divided by 6 = 0.29 Times 0.29 by 4 and we have 1.16it by

Eastman mandolins tend to run just a hair over 1-1/16". They also space their strings closer to the edge of the nut. The MD505 may have wider string spacing than a particular mandolin with a 1-1/8" nut. The Eastman does have a very slim feel to the neck.


2) As a lefty player, would I be better off to go after an older mandolin and convert it to lefty?

You can get great results converting to lefty. Even though most mandolins have the bracing offset, a converted lefty versions doesn't seem to sound much different. You will need to make a new nut and bridge saddle, if not just replace the whole bridge (requires fitting the foot). If you end up paying someone to do a good conversion, you might not save money over buying new.


3) A minor geek question here... does the different headstock shapes make a whit of difference tonally?

When Eastman first changed the headstock, they were shipping both versions at the same time. I didn't notice any difference. Now, there have been minor changes to the model over the years, so there may be difference based on the year rather than the headstock. For the most part, the Eastman's have steadily improved.

[BrazAd]

Steve, correct, the 1-1/4" nut was too wide for 4 finger chords, even for my thick fingertips! I now live in Albany, GA (3 hours south of Atlanta) and trying the Eastman out in advance of buying isn't an option, especially considering that I play lefty. Oh well...

Robert, the reason I asked about the older mandolins is that I'm wondering - would an older mando, converted to lefty, sound better than a newish Eastman? I read with relish the recent thread here from the editors about the inexpensive, older mandos like Strad-O-Lin, some old Gibsons, etc. - great sounding mandolins that don't kill a budget!

Gary

[JeffD]

What do you mean converted to lefty? I don't think you can just put the strings on the other way, can you. On some mandolins the bracing is not symmetrical left to right.

[Jim]

What do you mean converted to lefty? I don't think you can just put the strings on the other way, can you. On some mandolins the bracing is not symmetrical left to right.
Actually you can, though I change to a homemade saddle compensated the other way when I do it.

[ambrosepottie]

I recently bought an old oval hole Stradolin which I had converted to lefty. I had a new left compensated top made for the 2 piece bridge and the nut filed, recut and shimmed. All in all cheaper than making a new nut and buying a new CA bridge which would have to be fitted. CA is one of the few companies that make lefty bridges. The mandolin is sort of ladder braced so it's symetrical. I left the pickguard on because it looks nice and doesn't get in the way. So you would have to factor $100 or so into the price of an older mando to lefty-ize it. Which is about what the popular online shops that sell lefty's charge. They seem to do the conversion to Kentucky's Loars etc... Eastman does make true lefty's I think.

[stevejay]

Have you considered a Big Muddy mandolin? Mine sounds as good as many others I hear, although it is not "beautiful" to look at. But for messing around, hang on the wall type instrument, you can't beat it. Lots of sustain, which I find desirable, BG players may feel it's not "punchy" enough.

Mike Dulak will convert any BM lefty for a minimal amount, and it comes back just like you like it with extra bridges.