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FLATROCK HILL
Sep-29-2012, 1:16pm
Please forgive me if this is something that has been discussed to death in numberous earlier threads. I searched at lengh and was unable to find anything directy addressing my question(s). So, here goes....

The bridge on my Japan made KM-1500 has somewhat 'wallered-out' holes. The steel adjustment posts will tighten up as though the hole threads are not stripped, but the posts tend to lean toward the front when the strings are tightened.

I would guess that replacing it with a nice new ebony Cumberland would be the best solution. However, there is no one nearby that I would trust to fit it properly. Also, I'd like to keep the cost down if possible.

Maybe I've already committed a stupid mistake, but I attempted to remedy the situation by reversing the direction of the bridge (not the saddle of course). The feet seem to fit the top just as well and the 'lean' problem has gone away, at least temporarily.

The frets.com site that I refer to often, gives some tips on how to repair hole using toothpicks and wood glue etc. Can this fix be used on a bridge? How about if I try fitting something like a 'heli-coil'. (yeah, I know this isn't a lawn-mower engine block, but I'm just wonderin') etc.

One other thing. Why, if the bridge material is so critical (ebony, rosewood etc) isn't the sound-transfer from the saddle to the bridge comprimised by those metal posts?

I know these are probably inane questions. Although I've been doing my research on this forum for quite some time, this is only my second post... please be gentle.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

billhay4
Sep-29-2012, 1:21pm
Not a mistake, but the fit of the bridge to the top may not be very good any more (if it ever was). I'd recommend a new bridge (even a cheaper one) and fitting it yourself. It's tedious work, but not overly complicated. You need to be careful.
Go here (http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Mandolin/FitBridgeFeet/fitfeet.html) for technical details on fitting a mando bridge.
Bill

Paul Hostetter
Sep-29-2012, 3:06pm
The bridge on my Japan made KM-1500 has somewhat 'wallered-out' holes. The steel adjustment posts will tighten up as though the hole threads are not stripped, but the posts tend to lean toward the front when the strings are tightened.

This is fairly common, especially with rosewood bridge bases. You're right, a better bridge, well-fitted, would be best, but in the meantime, you can glue those threaded posts into the base of the bridge with CA. Make sure they're straight up or even tipped a little backward, and of course do this with the bridge entirely off the mandolin! Just glue the posts in firmly, and save your pennies for a better bridge, like a Cumberland, down the line.

FLATROCK HILL
Sep-29-2012, 7:34pm
Thanks for the link Bill, I never found that page on the 'Frets' site before. I think I'll check the fit on my old bridge and practice fitting it before I mess up a new one.

Thanks Paul, Sounds like something that's worth a try. CA...that would be contact adhesive I'm guessing?

sunburst
Sep-29-2012, 9:21pm
CA...that would be contact adhesive I'm guessing?

That would be superglue (cyanoacrylate).

Paul Hostetter
Sep-29-2012, 10:39pm
That would be superglue (cyanoacrylate).

Medium viscosity.

mirwa
Sep-30-2012, 8:47pm
One other thing. Why, if the bridge material is so critical (ebony, rosewood etc) isn't the sound-transfer from the saddle to the bridge comprimised by those metal posts? .

A very good point, I believe it makes a difference, when we cut dbl bass bridges I do not fit adjusters into the newly fabricated bridge for this exact reason, I can here the difference made from a solid piece of maple to a solid piece of maple with two buig screws fitted inside.

Solid wood bridges transmit the sound better IMO, however adjustable bridges are a good compromise for adjustability and flexibility to suit the player

Stephen Perry
Sep-30-2012, 9:14pm
One can also remedy saddle tilt somewhat by differentially cutting the seating surface for the adjuster nut on the saddle. A high quality bridge is a nicer way to do it.

Mike Snyder
Sep-30-2012, 9:53pm
I understand the need to keep costs down, believe me. You have a very nice instrument. Money spent on a good bridge and professional fitting and set-up is a bargain. Music is my lifeblood, my instruments are more crucial to my wellbeing than anything other than food, shelter and clothing. With two instruments, it's a yearly expenditure for frets or set-up. Bite the bullet and have it done right. Call Stephen Perry or Big Joe or research someone nearer. Worth every cent.

Paul Hostetter
Oct-01-2012, 11:33am
One other thing. Why, if the bridge material is so critical (ebony, rosewood etc) isn't the sound-transfer from the saddle to the bridge compromised by those metal posts?

This has come up so many times, and it's been shot down every single time. I, for one, have humored many players by making them one-piece bridges (even on two real Loars) to satisfy their curiosity about the difference. None could ever be heard. If there was any preference, it was slightly toward the two-piece adjustable. The only further benefit from all the bridge experimentation I've done over the years is that players definitely prefer ebony to rosewood for a mandolin bridge material.

I've also installed thumbwheels in somewhere between 800 and a thousand or so bass bridges and those players said the same thing. If there was any appreciable difference, it was more than offset by the flexibility they gained.

FLATROCK HILL
Oct-01-2012, 3:06pm
Thanks to all of you for your responses. I guess, like most every other mandolin owner, I want to coax the very best sound out of it as possible.
As I said, I'm relatively new to the mandolin and also to this forum. I really do try very hard to look through the old threads to find an answer before I jump in and start another thread.
I don't understand the word-search function on this site. Some days you can type in the very same key-words and get an entirely different set of threads to come up. Even on the search-thread-titles-only mode, the results aren't always predictable.
For instance: I read a thread entitled 'E string or Weight Lifting' (or something to that effect). I tried to re-find it and no matter what combination of those words I typed in, I had no luck. I tried again a few days later and it came up first time!
At any rate, I apologize if I'm asking questions that have already been beaten to death.