Upgrade to a Loar 600?

[GuyIncognito]

My parents said they'd go half on a new mandolin for me at the end of the fall semester. Would a Loar 600 be a significant upgrade from a Korean made Kentucky KM-675 or would it be worth it to save up for a 700 instead? I like my Kentucky but it's not as loud or 'woody' sounding as I'd like I mostly play classical and folk but I am currently learning jazz and maybe some bluegrass down the line. Though with college I’m not afforded much time to play with others I do enjoy ensemble playing. What would be your opinion or if there’s another good f style mandolin in the $1000 or less range?

[Ray Neuman]

I have no experience with the 600 or 700, but I DO have a 520. What I can say is, I am throughly in love with my mando! Its loud, deep and plays like butter. As I understand the Loar line, the higher the number, the fancier they get. Mine is a workhorse and I love it that way. It started out as a medium sound and volume, but I play it a couple hours a day and after 5 months, its really impressive. I played it at a 400 seat church last week with NO amplification and everyone heart it and loved it.

[billkilpatrick]

my loar LM600 is probably all i'll ever need, but if you have a sound in mind, i suggest you put your money in the bank and wait till you find it.

[CavScout]

My first mandolin was a Morgan Monroe. I upgraded to a Loar 600 and it was a major improvement (and the MM really wasn't too bad). The Loar has a nice deep bass and a woody bark. I have since upgraded to a Collings MF...and believe it or not...sometimes I do go back to my Loar. I don't think you'd be disappointed, its a really decent mandolin for the money.

[Ben Milne]

I suspect either would be a good choice... I've not played an LM600 but I bought an LM 700 at the right price, and i think the lack of tonebars gives it a slightly rounder/mellower sound - perhaps more suited if you want to play a range of music including classical. - (not saying the 600 wouldn't suit).
With your budget, I would trawl ebay for one going cheap, and pay someone local to do a setup on it. I managed to get mine (albiet with minor finish flaws) delivered to Australia from the US for less than $700.
I was happy to do my own setup and happy with minor finish flaw, since it gives me something to work on and reason not to be heartbroken when I ding it.
I

[f5loar]

I would wait to get up to at least the 700. Also look at the KM 1000 Kentucky for about same price.

[GuyIncognito]

One thing I have noticed is that I prefer a slimmer neck like a Big Muddy. Does anyone know any 1 1/4" nut width mandos in the Loar 600 to 700 quality and price range?

[Ben Milne]

Perhaps try and trade in your 675 for a 1000?

[almeriastrings]

I agree. I don't see much (if any) "upgrade" in your original suggestion, more of a "crossgrade". The KM-675 is an all solid wood, nicely made mandolin that sounds comparable to others at a similar price point. I would instead be looking at a KM-1000 or one of the plainer Webers, or Lafferty US made instruments. As a general guide, you rarely gain much by "upgrading" to something just a few hundred more. You really need to think it terms of around twice as much to see significant gains. I'd also keep any eye on the classifieds as some well played in instruments come up there getting you even more "bang for buck".

[billkilpatrick]

One thing I have noticed is that I prefer a slimmer neck like a Big Muddy. Does anyone know any 1 1/4" nut width mandos in the Loar 600 to 700 quality and price range?

nut length on my LM600 and mid-missouri M-4 is 1 1/8"

[trevor]

Impossible to say without playing both and then different folks might have different opinions..

[guitarpath]

One caveat. I don't think the 700 Loar is an upgrade over the 600. They are different (the 600 featuring tone bars, the 700 not having them). Thus, the 700 has a different sound. It is not necessarily better (or worse) or an upgrade over the 600.

To me, the 700 is more mellow and perhaps more versatile. The 600 is more of a bluegrass mandolin. Of course, they each can be utilized in a variety of musical settings. It is ultimately player-dependent.

[trevor]

Just an observation.. it seems that when they are right they very right. Wouldn't it be a good idea if they made less models and sorted out the glitches..

[f5loar]

Never heard about the 700 not having tone bars. Why would they leave them out of the best model? Generally it is known that the Loars have thicker necks than the upper end Kentuckys which are more in line with a real Loar in terms of thickness and width.

[Ben Milne]

Yep, 700 has extra bling, but no bars. Great all rounder mandolin, I wanted a 600 when I got mine but this particular one came in at the right price.

[GuyIncognito]

nut length on my LM600 and mid-missouri M-4 is 1 1/8"

According to the Big Muddy website my M2 has 1 1/4 nut width. Do you notice a difference between at all between your Muddy and your Loar? I'm not sure if it's the nut width but I do enjoy the skinnier neck of my Mid-Mo compared to my Kentucky. Does anyone have any experience if the Loar neck is much 'chunkier' than a Kentucky?

[billkilpatrick]

Never heard about the 700 not having tone bars. Why would they leave them out of the best model? Generally it is known that the Loars have thicker necks than the upper end Kentuckys which are more in line with a real Loar in terms of thickness and width.

are there any specifications comparing a lloyd loar "gibson" mandolin and a "loar?" regarding the mandolins lloyd loar had a hand in making - were they all uniform in dimensions?

[SincereCorgi]

I agree. I don't see much (if any) "upgrade" in your original suggestion, more of a "crossgrade". The KM-675 is an all solid wood, nicely made mandolin that sounds comparable to others at a similar price point. I would instead be looking at a KM-1000 or one of the plainer Webers, or Lafferty US made instruments. As a general guide, you rarely gain much by "upgrading" to something just a few hundred more. You really need to think it terms of around twice as much to see significant gains. I'd also keep any eye on the classifieds as some well played in instruments come up there getting you even more "bang for buck".

+1 for this... sound advice. You can get some pretty great used A models around the $1000-$1400, but I don't think anything south of that is going to be much of an improvement on your Kentucky. You'd be wasting your money. Maybe your parents would be nice enough to 'bank' that $400 until you've saved enough a little bigger step-up?

[billkilpatrick]

According to the Big Muddy website my M2 has 1 1/4 nut width. Do you notice a difference between at all between your Muddy and your Loar?

in terms of comfort, no - they're both very easy to play - mid-missouri in particular.

i just checked again and both measure 1 1/8 at the nut ... perhaps mike's mid-missouri mandolins were just a tad narrower than the newer big-muddy's.