is it difficult to change the nut?

[meveral3]

I have an old fender "baby strat " mandolin that needs to have the nut replaced or lowered . What problems can expect ? How best to avoid them ?
Any advice will be greatly appreciated .

[Audio Artillery]

Unless you have nut files of some sort this is basically impossible. But are you sure the nut needs to be lowered? Or does it just need a refret?

[kkmm]

meveral3,
Can you post a photo of the nut area ? This will show the problem more clearly and others can help more effectively (and some can learn from your experiences as well).

[Mandobart]

No it is not too difficult. Check out Stewart-McDonald for info (http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Nuts,_saddles/a-nuts.html) and tools (http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_saddles/Special_tools_for:_Nuts_and_saddles.html). Working up a new nut is one of the best DIY projects to take on, as once you have the tools, even a botched job only costs you the price of a nut blank (http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_saddles/String_nuts.html) and a few hours time.

[blueridgemandolin]

Might want to check out Frets.com for some more info on replacing the nut
Dan

[almeriastrings]

A really good set of graduated nut files really, really helps. You only need 4 for mandolin and they run around $13 each. They are well worth it, as they will cut clean slots with a round bottom very quickly and accurately. I have a complete 16 piece set from 0.09 right up to 0.135 (electric bass). One of the most-used tools I have. I also find a dremel tool very useful for blank preparation and final polishing. I know you can do it with home-made files converted from feeler gauges, but in my opinion, they make it pretty hard work compared to 'the real thing'.

[Ivan Kelsall]

My first question would be - 'why do you think the nut needs replacing or lowering in the first place ?'. I'm assuming that the instrument has played ok in the past. Have you had it for a while or is it new to you ?.If it's a question of the strings being too high off the fingerboard,it could be possible that the truss rod needs adjusting to straighten the neck out. I've never heard of nuts 'gaining height' so much that they need to be lowered,it's usually the opposite,the slots wear down & a new nut is required to bring the string height back up - usually on very old instruments.
To answer your basic question - replacing a nut is relatively simple - if you take care & 'think before you do' anything.The nut might simply need removing,the base sanding down by a tiny amount & re-fitting - if the current nut slots are ok that is - you don't say that they're 'not'. A visit to Frank Ford's 'Frets.com.' website would be a good place to look for advice,
Ivan;)

[bmac]

Nope, it isn't difficult.... As suggested above, all necessary info is in frets.com

Just do it!!!

[Rob Meldrum]

I just finished an ebook on how to set up a mandolin. I'm in the process of setting up places to buy it, but if you would like a copy for free, email me at rob.meldrum@gmail.com. It will sell for $9.95. I have given away 96 copies to mandolin cafe members and the feedback has been really good.

You'll learn how to accurately measure the action at the nut and bridge/saddle, adjust them both, including filing ( lowering) the nut, and a whole lot more. Looking forward to hearing from you,

Rob
PS To see before and after samples, go to YouTube and search robsterinedmonds.

[PT9Baja]

I am a ignorant newb but with the great free information on line I converted a KM 160 to left handed. I bought a lefthand Cumberland bridge and fit it with free online info. I Bought 3 nut blanks and used 2 to get it right. At the same time I had a vintage Gibson worked on by a great local pro . She did a refret , repair , conversion to lefthanded, and setup for a fair price and I love its sound and how it plays and I think she got it to its potential. I think I have come close on my own to getting the KM to its potential.I would never attemp a refret and I think the Gibson deserves professional care but I am happy with the work I did on the KM. I spend parts of the winter in Baja Sur and need a mandolin to travel from our damp NW to the dry desert of Baja that I can work on. frets.com was really helpful. I am not an expert and have not been a long term member of this forum but personally I am tired of robster promoting his e book. My guess is he did the same process of searching online free info and packaged it to sell. Maybe I am wrong, just how I feel.

[Dick Hutchings]

He's offering it for free?:confused:

[pefjr]

I would solve the problem by taking the nut off(you might have to pry it a little), and sanding the bottom of the nut the measured bit you need to lower it. Put it back in with a touch of glue. Don't mess with filing groves.

[bmac]

By the way... Refretting is normally not difficult... Check frets.com for info. Certainly if the neck is bound then the refretting is more time consuming. I have mostly lower end instruments and refretting professionally would sometimes be more than the instrument is worth so refretting myself is a matter of economy.

[PT9Baja]

The tools and stuff. 10 mm backsaw from finewoodworking stuff to start slots. a scale to measure with. A Small piece of granite counter top and sand paper in varied grit for flat sanding. A gas welder tip cleaner file set to finish slots. The real files would be way better but cost to much for my limited nuts. A half pencil ,I made it on the sanding flat, it marks slot depth. A micrometer, it makes you feel scintific. A small bench vise to hold the nut. Fine tip pencil for marking slot spacing. The hard part is using the cheap gas welder files effectively. They do cut but it takes some touch. Be patient,go slow and have some extra blanks. The halved pencil is key to success. I am not an expert but play one on the internet. With some experience in woodworking and models I found making nuts fun and felt good about doing it myself and only wasted 1 blank.

[bmac]

Stumac sells pre slotted fretboards which makes life a lot easier if replacing the fretboard and installing new frets.