Mandolins in progress

[Darryl Wolfe]

I started to put this on "mandolin backs"...but why not just show some thing in progress

[Darryl Wolfe]

Another shot

[Darryl Wolfe]

Red spruce tops

[Darryl Wolfe]

No. 1 along with "Lloyd". Lloyd is the one with a neck!!

You making mandos now Daryl?

[Darryl Wolfe]

Certainly trying to. Let's not say "making" until some are done. I have done two dobros and about 6 "Fender" electrics from scratch though

dgw

[Mike Handley]

Not a mando, but a lap steel, 25" Dobro scale. Shouldn't every instrument have a scroll?

[Mike Handley]

Full view:

[mandopete]

Now that looks truly bizzare (and I mean that in a good way).

[Mike Handley]

Ummm .. Thanks?!

Keep your instruments in your cases. This is what happens when cousins marry.

[Magnus Geijer]

My #1, first stringing up tonight, and no imploding tops or anything. I'd say I have about four million work hours left on this thing, but I just couldn't help stringing it up when I realized it was possible.

/Magnus

[J. Wiens]

My latest two F-5 s prior to fench polishing..Western bigleaf maple on the left and Michigan Red on the right......Jamie

[J. Wiens]

The bigleaf one getting french polished.......Jamie

[mandoluthier1]

Magnus,
Aaaaaaaaaand...........?

[Michael Lewis]

Good looking stuff guys!

That red maple has a sort of wiggly figure that I like (Darryl and Jamie). I have a bunch of big leaf that has similar figure and I can make 1 piece backs with much of it. I got it for making archtop guitars mostly, but there is enough short stuff to make a dozen mandos, it will be fun going through this wood.

[Darryl Wolfe]

Jamie...really nice looking work..keep it up

[Bret]

Very nice work gentleman.....you've got me thinking about trying to build.

Very nice stuf..

[Russ(String-Alley)]

I play steel and Must have a mando styled steel like that, Awsome Idea!!!! when, how much, that is the freaking coolest!!!! nice work!!
Russ

[Mike Handley]

Russ,

I've been itching to build a mando for a couple of years, but I know I need to build my woodworking skills. I've carved a couple of top plates out of scrap pine for practice, and I've done re-frets, refinishes, and some major repairs on cheap instruments. I play Dobro, too and I go the idea of making a lap steel because it seemed like one of the easiest stringed instruments to make. I bought Tele hardware and pickups and planned to just build it up on a 2 X 6 slab. As I was making a full scale drawing, I got to thinking that I wanted to give a little shape to the body, like the old Oahu models. Then, I ran across my plexiglass mando template, and set it on top of the drawing. I was just going to use the shape without a scroll, but one thing has led to another, and I figured that I'll just go ahead and give it everything I've got.

The headstock inlay is actually 1/16" maple. (I'm cheap) I actually found that flamed maple for the body at Home Depot. (I'm really cheap) I'm going to use more 1/16" mahogany, maple and cherry to do a vine inlay on the fretboard. (Did I mention I'm cheap?) I figure I'll be done by the end of August, making this a three month project, working evenings and weekends. I'm having a ball and it's coming out better than I expected.

This is instrument #1. When I'm done, I'll have to decide what I'm going to do next. CAUTION: Building is addictive! I've got about $200 in material and supplies. (We won't count that drill press!) I didn't plan on making this to sell, and I haven't kept track of the hours. Even at minimum wage, I'll bet I couldn't make and sell another to get much of a profit. You can buy a new Gold Tone lap steel for less than $400 - but ... it doesn't have a scroll!

Thanks for the encouragement. Someday I'll make a REAL instrument.

[Russ(String-Alley)]

REAL NICE! good to hear man, I have a few steels and one pedal steel, ( Roy Smeck, no-name oldie supro?, a morrell 8, and a Sho-Bud) But that one would be awsome to play out with. The Finish is real nice too.
Keep on building!!
Russ

[oldwave maker]

Sharons guitar shaped octave, Rays 2 point with mesquite burl martin bowlback style peghead, on a bed of fresh creamy delicious engelmann tops, in the 103 degree shade the ol black walnut

[Kent Barnes]

Here's my first attempt at building: #Harlan #1 waiting on my lacquer order to arrive so it can shine!

http://www.kentium.net/mandolin/mandopics/harlan1.jpg
http://www.kentium.net/mandolin/mandopics/harlan2.jpg

[MandoMonster]

First attempt? very very nice.

[mandopete]

I'm with you MandoMonster, this stuff kills me. I can't even nail two boards together. I am absolutely floored by the talent out there when it comes to building an instrument as difficult as a floretine style mandolin. This is just another factor that makes being a mando-head great!

[tope]

Lordy Lordy, fine herd folks.

Gary

[mcmando]

kyswede,

Very nice #1 there! I like!

[resonant68]

Nice work indeed,fellows.
Here is my current project.Still working out the details.I plan on building two like this and two with rounded points.

[Brier]

#3 in the white and # 2 to keep company.

Peter

[Magnus Geijer]

John,

I honestly don't know what to compare the tone to. It's loud and mellow to the point of missing som clarity in the treble. I attribute some of this to my desperately bodged quickjob of a bridge though, so the jury is still out, somewhat. Need to take it apart and get back to working on it or I'll never finish it now, so bridge adjustment/replacement will have to wait until the rest is finished.

McMando: Thanks!

/Magnus

[mandomick]

Thanks Guys, Always great to see new instruments in different stages of being.

Kyswede, excellent looking #1 and real cool sound holes. I love Fs but it's nice to see something different.

Jamie and Oldwavemaker what can I say? Only in North America.

[mandoluthier1]

Just finished, heading to NYC

[J. Wiens]

Wild stuff!! Looks great..........Jamie

[oldwave maker]

Red or yellow? the 'ripe' with biteaways on the upper bout, larger seeds, f style peghead, in the white has a bit nasal chop, irritatingly screaming up the e string, not as sweet as the 'sweet', not as juicy as the 'juicy', but hey, its early in the melon season here, and these hot nights make for ideal growing conditions!

[oldwave maker]

the 'ripe' peghead detail, mammoth tusk nut (thanks leon)

[oldwave maker]

the 'ripe' bridge detail, inspired by Red's experiments, rainbow gardens roller rink salvaged rock maple topped with fossil walrus tusk (thanks Kurt), drilling the holes brought out a bit fatter tone to the low end

[Brier]

Bill,

Pleaseeeeees bring it to Wintergrass!!!

Peter.

[mandoryan]

Here are two of my latest. The one on the right was just strung up two days ago and is still in the white. It has a Western Red Cedar top and rock maple back and sides. The one beside it is a Stew-Mac kit that I finished a while back. It's opening up quite nicely and is turning into a loud cannon. The cedar one has a very cool tone so far. Bright and loud but very thunky lows. Can't wait to get a finish on her.

[John Jesseph]

Just got done leveling the linings and boring the truss rod pocket. Will lay out the dovetail after lunch, cut it today or tomorrow.

[Skip Kelley]

Here is the back of 007 in the white.

[levin4now]

old wave,

aren't mammoth's hard to come by these days?

(Is that really mammoth tusk for a nut?)

levin4now

[johnwalser]

Not being a builder myself, I still thought you might like to see my Schwab under construction (October ETA). Ready for gloss coats to be applied.
Picture of Front

[johnwalser]

And back

[Sellars]

Just finished, heading to NYC
I really like the pickguard on this one! very classy!

[resonant68]

Here is my work in progress at this point.Been working kinda slow.Trying to get in as much summer fun as I can before it's gone.Anyway,I call it my "S" style.At this pace I should be done next year!

[J. Wiens]

Very Slick Resonant! Love the sensual peaks and curves. That peghead is similar to one I drew up a few years ago but never used. Keep us posted............Jamie

[oldwave maker]

Starting the building cycle once again, this weeks wood bending: 2 octaves, 2 f5s, a C#, a mandola, 10 a's, all maple except for 1 mesquite rim.

[ira]

that 's' style looks great. what a unique design. i have a builder right now making what he calls his p2 design mandolin, originally designed for his citerns, so i love something a little different. he is working on it now, and i will post as he sends me pictures.

[Magnus Geijer]

Getting very close now. Tru-Oil has been a miracle to work with for me.

http://www.geijer.k-image.com/albums/album01/PICT0494b.jpg

/Magnus

[ethanopia]

wow magnus cool sound holes
I like alternate sound hole shapes.
I'm a big fan od DAquisto etc so good work let us know how she sounds...

-e

[J. Wiens]

Looks great Magnus!.....Jamie

[Mteresko]

Jamie, how about some pictures of your current work in progress? http://mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

[Jim Hilburn]

Looks like an ad for Quik-Grip clamps.All this to glue on an ebony overlay on the back of the peghead.

[Darryl Wolfe]

Three of the six A-models and two F's I have in progress

ftp://ftp.f5journal.com/pic_day/a_5.JPG

[cloyd]

darryl, for some reason your pictures never come up on my computer. I wonder what I'm doing wrong?

[ira]

hey folks- really interesting stuff. i am not a builder, but am lucky enough to be working with a luthier (doug dieter) who posts up pics for me as he goes along in the building process. it has been extremely cool watching my instrument in the making (though the waiting is killing me).
thought folks might have interest. i am getting the first of what he calls the p2 design mandolin, modeled after his p2 cittern.

enjoy
www.kennaquhair.com/sn174/

[ira]

sorry- in case it wasn't clear, the link i gave is where you can find pics.

[Greenmando]

darryl, for some reason your pictures never come up on my computer. I wonder what I'm doing wrong?
His pictures usually lights my firewall up, I think he hosts his own pics. Or something, I don't know why I get the same problem.

[Darryl Wolfe]

All, #See if this link works on your browser. #If not it is a firewall issue in your internet security. #You should see a directory full of all the pictures I have posted

ftp.f5journal.com/pic_day

or

My Webpage (ftp.f5journal.com/pic_day)

[Marty Jacobson]

http://martinjacobson.com/process/pix/0dramatic-1.jpg

Modified GA-inspired F in progress; a bit more aerodynamic and obnoxiously retro than Monteleone's classic original.

[Marty Jacobson]

And a concept for a custom celtic mandolin... still in the works, and this is a few revisions back. But I think it gets the idea across... Cheers!

[jasona]

nice stuff!

[Keith Newell]

Maybe another future lil Golden Delicious? Not sure what color yet.
Keith Newell

[ira]

go for the gold . the last one was goooooooooorgeous.

[Yonkle]

Final Product http://mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/laugh.gif JD

[Yonkle]

http://mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/laugh.gif STARTING Scroll and F Holes... http://mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif JD

[Darryl Wolfe]

Five of the six A's and one of two F's

[Scotti Adams]

..Daryl..thats some mighty fine lookin wood..have you got any pics of a completed F5 of yours?

[Darryl Wolfe]

I hate to admit that I haven't gotten there yet. I'm close, but having trouble with the neck. That's why I backed off and did this..and am now going to fit all of the necks, including the troublesome F5. Will post some pics of the body and overlay (well maybe I won't post the overlay..Gibson may think I sawed it off of a Loar)

Here's the body (2 years ago...I move real fast)

[Scotti Adams]

..looks real good ...so far....:0).....cant wait to see the final product...thanks!

[Darryl Wolfe]

Two more

[Darryl Wolfe]

another

[mandoluthier1]

The Scottish.
European Maple and Spruce.
Cocobolo bindings.
For Sale.

[mandoluthier1]

The Scottish.
Back plate.

[Darryl Wolfe]

Looks fab..keep up the good work

[neal]

John, that's some scroll! I like it.

[WJF]

Wow!!!!

John was kind enough to send me the Scottish to check out and I am blown away by it. Volume, punch, tone city, the thing pretty much plays itself and looks like a museum quality work of art. I was really impressed by one of his previous efforts but this one leaves it in the dust!

I'll say it here so I can be among the first to climb firmly on the bandwagon. You may not have heard a lot about John at this point in time but if he keeps turning out instruments like this, that will change *very* soon! Hey kids -- keep your eyes (and ears) on this guy!!!!

WJF

Disclaimer ... I have no financial interest in John or his mandolins besides being on the waiting list for one ... can't wait http://mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mandosmiley.gif

[Jim Hilburn]

Here's a new look I'm trying. This instrument will be amber-honey-blonde with all black highlights ,tailpiece cover ,tuner buttons ,etc.

[Jim Hilburn]

Wow ,that came out big! I think Scott's increased the allowable size. Here's another angle. I inked in the loops and dot on my name. I have to engrave and ink that yet.

[Darryl Wolfe]

My now defunct peghead overlay/inlay

[f5loar]

Defunct? I would think you fall into the "grandfather" clause in legal terms since you did this years ago before
the new copy laws were made public to you. You can always have two peghead overlays. One for the privacy of your
own pleasure, pop it out and put on your second one for
public appearances with the "Wolfe" logo at the top. Make
it so it's as easy as changing a pickguard.

[Magnus Geijer]

Doing my best to get in over my head here.
#2 (poplar with mahogany blocks)
#3 and #4 (curly maple)

[Darryl Wolfe]

Looks like my shop..just a little dust and spider webs missing

[ira]

http://www.kennaquhair.com/sn174/sn174_page3.htm
check it out.
the binding is on the body and it looks maaaaaaaaaavelous.
thinking of leaving it natural as it looks so nice.

[John Bertotti]

Mandoluthier1 The Scottish looks great! How do you keep the maple so white? Is this one of your deflection tuned models? If so the review states much about your process. Innovative and incredible, I wonder whats next on your R&D journey. John

[Mikey2]

Jim Hilburn

Your new inlay is such nicer and more artistic than the so called gibson "flowerpot" that any buyer/customer would opt for it, in my opinion. Don't look back and regret not ever doing the old flowerpot, which to me, was nothing special to begin with. Your mandos show real craftsmanship.
Mike in OR

[johnhgayjr]

I don't have pictures but I do have a mandolin in progress.

Sim Daley (www.simdaley.com) is building his Standard model for me. Its similar to the F5G as far as binding, inlays, etc...

Sim invited me up to check it out while its "in the white" before he finishes it. I went up to his shop in Nashville (actually Goodlettsville) from Memphis and gave it a test drive Saturday morning.

Its a fantastic mandolin. Great chop, awesome low end (which is what I was really after), great tone and volume.

Sim couldn't be easier to work with and has made sure that the mandolin winds up being just what I want.

Also had a great time jamming with Sim and his wife Missy later that day at a festival in Ridge Top, TN.

It was really a great Saturday - I'll try to post pics as soon as I get it.

John Gay
Memphis

[ira]

getting toward the home stretch-check it out!

http://www.kennaquhair.com/sn174/sn174_page3.htm

[bobz]

Thought you would like to see my method of cutting the mandolin neck dovetail. This photo shows the modified cutters for my three cutter moulding block used on my saw bench.

[bobz]

Here is the neck jig. The jig is used both ends to cut both neck shoulders. This is not my invention, it can be attributed Don Macrostie, as he demonstrates it on his Making a mandolin video set.

[bobz]

Here are a couple of test pieces. I`ve made the body routing jig and the neck in the foreground is the right size but has a little too much taper. I can rectify this by reducing the layers of masking tape on the jig. The curve of the neck shoulders are spot on. I had to creep up on the profile in three grinding sessions making tests after each grinding.

[Chris Baird]

bobz, Where did you get the cutters and how much $?

[bobz]

Hi Chris,
The cutters came with the moulding block set, ( they were originally straight rebating cutters ), but I`ve reground them myself. I purchased this cutter block about 15 years ago when I was building furniture but never used it because I had a two cutter block with many more profiles, so I kept using that instead. I now have a use for this block after all these years, and the three knife block is better for cutting across the endgrain of a mando neck.
Incidently, we can`t buy a block like this in the UK anymore because of EU ruling that does`nt allow moulding blocks to be mounted on saw benches, deeming it an unsafe practice. Sawbenches sold in this country now have too short an arbor to mount a block.

Bob Deacon

[ira]

http://www.msnusers.com/7havonv8g85pagmahrsfpg4266/Documents/Pictures%2Frosette.jpg

[ira]

sorry, forgot to write- probable rosette for my mando- rosewood with maple and sunray inlays made of recycled ivory keys.

[ira]

can't seem to get pic posted- you can check out rosette at:
http://www.kennaquhair.com/sn174/sn174_page3.htm

[oldwave maker]

heres what happened to those bent sides in the sept 5 pic:
sweet 16!

[Albert Whiting]

my mandolin "The Scot" # 7 . it will be finished this week.

[Albert Whiting]

the front

[Albert Whiting]

peghead inlay

[Darryl Wolfe]

a little progress over the weekend...no I didn't use my planer on them

[Jim Hilburn]

My hat's off to Bill B. and Daryl. I have enough trouble trying to do these one at a time.
I'm on the verge of finishing the binding on my latest ,and here's a couple of shots.

[Jim Hilburn]

One more miter to go!

[ira]

final rosette design

[bobz]

Jim Hillburn

I must say I`m impressed with your work Jim, very tidy neat construction. It looks like you`ve applied some finish on the mando back prior to doing the binding.

I`m building my very first mandolins, ( I`m building two F5s ). I glued the S rib to the neck block seperately because there was too much light showing through when cramped in the outside mould. I used a strip of cork floor tile which really pressed the rib to the neck block with no light showing through. Looking forward to the best part, the plate carving.

[bobz]

And here is one of the completed rib assemblies.

[oldwave maker]

Bob- I cut thin wedges from leftover spruce to wedge the sidewood against the block during glueup.
Jim- this severe MBS is what happens when a luthier is left at home with no adult supervision!
this week: home alone necking.....

[Darryl Wolfe]

A nice $51 mando neck off ebay put to good use

[Darryl Wolfe]

a little more

[Jim Hilburn]

Bill ,I hope those fingerboards aren't glued on yet.
Bob thanks for the encouragement. It looks as though your going to do well in the mando world.
There's nothing but bare wood with a little construction grunge on the mando.

[doanepoole]

Wow...that is one of the most beautiful back and sides I have ever seen on an insturment!

[dixiecreek]

it absolutely amazes me that you guys actually MAKE mandolins... wow... :D

[bobz]

http://mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif Arrrrggggghhhhh. I`ve made a mistake when machine planing one of my two curly maple mando backs. I surfaced the bottoms and then jointed the gluing edges. I then ran them through my thicknesser to bring them down a shade over 5/8" because I can`t run them through my planer after joining, ( too wide for my thicknesser ). I thicknessed one side of a set the wrong way round. They`re now not book matched. Nothing I can do about it now I`m afraid. Please tell me it`s not too bad.

I wonder if you guys can help me with some info ?
What is a popular fingerboard radius for a mandolin ?
Any tips about finishing inside the body scroll. I normally spray my instruments with an airbrush and compressor, but it will be mid winter here in the UK by the time I`m ready to finish my two mando`s so I`ll most probably use brushing lacquer. Any info, tips, tricks etc would be most appreciated.

[Magnus Geijer]

I wouldn't worry about the non-bookmatch thing at all. Looks like you've got some very nice looking wood there in its own right. Seems to me the most commonly mentioned radius for mandolins is about 12", but you might want to get some second opinions on that.

/Magnus

[bobz]

Thankyou Magnus

It`s not that bad after all. I squared up the ends on a miter saw and the grain of the maple is almost vertical. The only thing is the curly figuring will be at a slight tilt on the finished instrument instead of a slight herring bone pattern. I can live with that. http://mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

Well I have a 12" radius sanding block, so I`ve got that base covered. I have the adjustable radius block on back order from Luthiers Mercantile. With this tool it`s possible to easily sand a compound radius because it`s 13 1/2" long so it will cover the complete mando fingerboard.
Hope that arrives when I have need of it.

[oldwave maker]

Still home alone, still no adult supervision! 3 on left have board hideglued on, 6 on right have them pinned with g string cutoffs in #60 drillhole. 12"radius except flat for blackie, in the background the alligator juniper body and birdseye neck of a lektrik geetar Im donating to the silver city blues festival

[Darryl Wolfe]

Great lookin' stuff buss

[Mikey2]

OldWaveMaker

Your style and use of amber stains is what prompted me to buy two other mandos but I have to admit I love your use of flamed/curly, fancy woods! Your "whiskey before mando" has always been a favorite!!!!!

[Steve Stahl]

I will try to post a picture of three red spruce tops that are in various stages of the carving process. This first picture is of a top with the steps carved with a Wagner Safe-T-planer. The red spruce billets came from Spruce (Bruce Harvie).

[Steve Stahl]

The next step is to start the recurve and general shaping with finger planes.

[Steve Stahl]

And the final shaping is done with scrapers and micro-mesh.

[Kent Barnes]

Steve, What are the numbers on the stair-stepped top? Is that in inches (.20-.65) ?? I did a similar process with my first mando, but didn't take as many "steps". I like the way you did it!

[Steve Stahl]

That's right KayBee, the numbers are hundredths of an inch. I also did fewer steps on my first attempt (0.10" intervals), although I would do each step removing 0.05" increments. I found it was much easier to control the Wagner Safe-T-planer than I thought it would be, so I did the next two using 0.05" steps.

[ira]

nut is set up and bridge set up, intonation is next, and the custom case is on it's way.........
....
i am getting miiiiiiiiiiiiiiighty excited!!!!!
mantra: i am patient, i am patient, i am patient

http://www.kennaquhair.com/sn174/sn174_page4.htm

[Keith Newell]

Mighty fine looking mando there Ira, you have to let us know how it sounds when you get it (like I thought you wouldnt hehe).
Keith

[ira]

keith, i generally am a tad shy about sharing my feelings, and certainly am loathe to sprinkle the board with my joy in playing, and about my soon-to-be new instrument. but if you insist.............. http://mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif

ira

[bobz]

Here`s a picture of one of my first mandolin tops.

[bobz]

And one of the tops completed. I`ve started carving one of the backs and my fingers are sore using the small Ibex plane for the recurve.

[bobz]

I thought you guys might be interested in my home made carving plane design. The large one in the background is for carving archtop guitars. It`s ideal for the rough carving stage as it removes thick heavy shavings. I then switch to the Ibex Sloane plane for refining. You don`t have to spend mega bucks to get into luthiery, there`s lots of tools you can make yourself.

[bobz]

And a top view.

[Jim Hilburn]

I started into the buffing process this morning ,and it's not even noon ,and I'm spent. My carpel tunnels have collapsed ,and my elbow ran out of grease.
So I thought I'd take some photo's of the progress ,and I might as well share them.
This is my take on the black top. But I went blonde everywhere else instead of sunburst. I found that when I take photo's of sunbursts ,I'm always trying to get the reflections out of the shot ,but I found on a blackie ,the reflection is the star of the show. In this pic ,you can see my wifes upright bass in the top.

[Jim Hilburn]

After 2 weeks of having this one look like a bowling ball ,it's pretty exciting to see it with the shine.

[Jim Hilburn]

And here's what the back looks like. When I get it strung up next week ,I'll post some more.

[Chris Baird]

Very nice Jim. What do you use to make the top black?

[Jim Hilburn]

A Sharpie....
No ,I used Valspar tinting colors in lamp black. Its a pigment ,not a dye ,meaning it's a solid color. The difference is bigger particles held in suspension ,while stain is smaller particles in solution..I think.
It mixes into lacquer ,and sprays on nicely. Then there are several clear coats on top.

[Michael Lewis]

That's very attractive, Jim. Nice job.

[Sellars]

Wow, what an instrument! I love the black top (and the way you photographed the reflection btw), and I really like the binding, the black and white really stand beautiful against the color of the wood!

[levin4now]

Jim,

That is truly an exceptional looking mandolin. I am not one to usually really like blacktops but this has singlehandedly changed my heart. What a beauty. I actually just love the wood (and the color of) the back. i suppose it has a happy and anxious owner waiting for it?

levin4now

[ira]

i love the contrast of the blonde with the black and white binding- stunning work!

[Jim Hilburn]

I installed the machines today ,so I have to add this pic.
Levin ,this one is destined for Cairo ,the one in Egypt.

[zeke]

Gads that's beautiful, Jim. One of the ones I'm finishing is going to be a blacktop as well, reenforced inspiration by you (once again&#33http://mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif. I love the black edge on the top of the headstock to match the points, very cool and tasteful in the extreme. Did you use a maple headblock to accomodate the blond open scroll?

[fmspinc]

Beautiful !!

[Jim Hilburn]

Hi ,Zeke.
I think your mostly only able to see the maple top in the scroll in these pictures ,but I did use basswood for the blockset so you didn't see mahogany down in there. Tomorrow ,I'm going to be trying to match the color down in all the scrolls. There's polishing compound and lacquer overspray in there now ,so I will go in there with kerosene and get all that out I can and then make some tinted lacquer with retarder to make it more hand-paintable and see if I can make it look alright.

[oldwave maker]

Another blackie, off to florida after polishing compound removal, the top was sealed with a thin coat of shellac, then 1 thin coat mowhawk black lacquer in the can, just enough to blackout, binding scraped, 5 clear, sandback w/220, 2 thin clear to fill the 220 scratches, rubout a couple of weeks later.

[mandoryan]

Here are some pics of my latest. Almost done. Just have to put the frets in and make the nut. Drill the tuning peg holes, final sand, and finish. So close I can taste it. This may be my Christmas present to myself. ;)

[ira]

i love the shape of the headstock.

[mandoryan]

Thanks Ira. I wanted to do something different than a snakehead but incorporate some esthetics that a snakehead has. The curl on the top of the peghead, for instance. I like bigger pegheads though.

Also, I saw that you got your mando. Must be all smiles around your house http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif It looks great! Enjoy.

[Kent Barnes]

Harlan #2 is underway. #Here are a few pictures.
http://www.kentium.net/mandolin/mando2pics/neck1.jpg
http://www.kentium.net/mandolin/mando2pics/top1.jpg
http://www.kentium.net/mandolin/mando2pics/back1.jpg
Wish me luck!!

[MTaylor]

Here is a nice pair......

[MTaylor]

Here is the front view....

[oldwave maker]

Thanks to mr hilburn for the blackie rubout tips!

[oldwave maker]

And thanks to mr harvie for providing the raw material for the next whiskey before breakfast!

[Randolph]

Good Heavens! Who would have ever thought so little whiskey could go so far? I'm glad to see the color continues, and I have no doubt the incredible tone and playability will follow.

[Michael Lewis]

Very cool Bill. http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/cool.gif

[oldwave maker]

Last ovalhole back for the year, super lightweight quilt also from Bruce Spruce

[PhilGE]

Whew! Bill, that quilt back is breathtaking!

Best,
Phil

[Jim Hilburn]

It's also a great example of the positive-negative aspect of bookmatched wood. you can see that what's light on one half is dark on the other.
That blacktop photo AND the mandolin should both be in an art museum.

[Spruce]

I remember that tree...

Bill...beautiful work. I have only had the good fortune of playing one of your mandolins(David Long's) but really was impressed with it. Old world tone to die for.

[oldwave maker]

Seasons greeting to all mandonuts, gotta love those hollidaze colors!

[Eugene]

That's some fine, flamey rind!

[RI Jim]

Finally crawled out of the cellar long enough to post some pictures here.... I didn't take these and i think they might be enitrely way too big, but here goes:

[RI Jim]

A HUGE thanks to John Garrity, Spruce, Daryl, Jim Hilburn,and Michael Lewis. When the humidity got too high , you all came through with tips and info to keep the mind moving !

[RI Jim]

I might be biased, but this design makes the traditonal Gibson look dated. http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

[RI Jim]

Finally, that sexy scroll !

[resonant68]

Here is a shot of the "S" model Silhouette with stain and sealer coat.I'm waiting for the humidity to get right before I spray it with lacquer.Can't wait!

[resonant68]

And the back

[Dedian]

While not from scratch, I've been overly enjoying building this Stew-Mac A kit. For the most part all the pices just seemed to go together without much fuss, and its definately a good way to ease into building, without knowing much woodworking skills (as I still don't have!)

Here's a pic of its first stringing up. Without much first hand experience with "real" mandos, I have to say that it just sounds better than what I'm used to.

Edit: oops, forgot to add: My building process is on my website, at http://www.obfus.com/gallery/mandolin

[ira]

resonant- love that s style. truly unique!

[Mikey2]

Dedian
You did great! Looks really nice, kit or no kit!!!!! I like the light color.

[mandoryan]

Here are some pics of my a style that I just strung up. I haven't decided on the color that I want to do yet. I really would like to recreate that whiskey before mando color if I can. Mr. Bussman seems to get that beautiful amber tint to his mandos. Anyhow, here goes...

[mandoryan]

Another pic of the back...

[mandoryan]

Better pic of the top

[oldwave maker]

Mandoryan- I use stew-mac vintage amber (and maybe a microdrop of medium brown or red mahogany )colortone in alcohol airbrushed directly on the wood, then a yellow or amber shellac 1.5 lb cut sealer coat, then nitro with more of the colortone (3-6 drops per 16 oz nitro)mixed in, helps to experiment on scrap or maple pickguards, good luck, nice looking mando!

[mandoryan]

Thanks Bill for the advice and the compliment! I really appreciate it.

[Kent Barnes]

Harlan #2 is well under way. #Here are a couple of pictures of the progress so far.
http://www.kentium.net/mandolin/mandolincafe/neck2.jpg
http://www.kentium.net/mandolin/mandolincafe/top4.jpg

The second goes so much faster than the first. #I just have to remember to take my time and not get rushed and sloppy!

[Bob DeVellis]

This whole thread is really remarkable. I'm totally blown away by the creativity and artistry of the people putting together mandolins, from those with the courage, skill, and patience to build their first kit to the pros who keep pushing the boundaries of mandolin aesthetics. My hat's off to all of you.

[Keith Newell]

hmmm, I cant attach an image

[Keith Newell]

Well, its almost done. Just a few coats of varnish to seal in stain, nothing polished out yet. Top is one piece Sitka from Bruce Harvie at Orcas Island Tonewoods. The sides, neck and back (one piece also) is Big leaf maple from John Griffon at Old Standard Woods. The wierd spot on the back is a reflection or something because its not in the finish.
Keith Newell
http://home.comcast.net/~mandolinkgn/wsb/html/view.cgi-home.html-.html

[Keith Newell]

Side.

[Keith Newell]

Top.

[Keith Newell]

Neck joint profile.

[Mike Handley]

How about an 'F-Paul?'

[Jim Hilburn]

What can I say? It's the initials of the guy who's getting it. Hope I don't hear from a barrister.

[Darryl Wolfe]

Jim, just a gentle suggestion (if you didn't know or even care) Stew-mac fingerboard blanks (it looks like one) do not have the fingerboard extension cut in the right place with respect to the frets.

There's nothing wrong about it, just if you want it to look like the way Gibson did it, they are way off.

I fretted and bound 2 of them before I noticed it. I'll certainly use them, but not on the "clone" of my Loar

[Darryl Wolfe]

Great work..I love the triple binding on the face

[Jim Hilburn]

Thanks ,Darryl ,but I make my own ,and I'm actually trying to keep the whole thing shorter than an actual Loar-style.
I did get in trouble with an order from a classical player. He said he played things up to the 24th fret. I never thought anyone ever played up there.

[Darryl Wolfe]

Thanks Jim, I figured you had a good answer..'just needed to go there "in case"

I really like the look of that piece of spruce..should be a Hoss

[chris]

What I found wrong with the Stew mac F5 kit is the neck. The neck is a 1/2" longer than a Loar. So it looks like the added length ends up between the the nut and the tip of the headstock. Major Bummer

[Jim Hilburn]

How do you clamp those pesky point protectors on ,anyway? Well ,here's one way.

[bobz]

And here`s another way of glueing those point protectors. #http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

[Jim Hilburn]

I like it. You could use those clamps even with the plates on. I've been doing the flaired point thing ,even though I guess the Loars never had it. Thats why I wait till it's binding time

[Magnus Geijer]

Doesn't get any easier than doing it like this.

[Magnus Geijer]

Of course, you end up with rims that aren't exactly Loar specs.

[Darryl Wolfe]

What I found wrong with the Stew mac F5 kit is the neck. The neck is a 1/2" longer than a Loar. So it looks like the added length ends up between the the nut and the tip of the headstock. Major Bummer
[QUOTE]

Yep..and then I turned around and bought one without the peghead cut...ended up throwing both away

[sunburst]

Re corner protectors:
Did you notice the picture David Mclaughlin posted of the "dovetail" of the corner protector into the binding? It's in the Loar picture of the day thread. Ever since he pointed that detail out to me about 12 or 13 years ago, I quit trying to clamp them. I put the binding on first, cut the "dovetail", cut the protector to fit, and when I push the protector into its place, it's clamped! For the duration!

[boboshoes]

Here's my next one. Claro walnut f5. Coming up will be a Brazilian Rosewood. All will be natural.

[Magnus Geijer]

My first two-piece back beginning to look like what it's supposed to.

[oldwave maker]

Fresh experiment with super lightweight mottled redwood top from Spruce, adirondack tonebars, texas mesquite sides/1pc back, mahogany neck, red henry bridge, bison femur nut, arizona ironwood peghead veneer/fretboard/fingerrest- lively and loud, not used to the redwood tone yet.

[oldwave maker]

peghead detail of the redwood mesquite experiment-arizona ironwood burl peghead veneer, flowerpot made from catlinite (pipestone) from the az mine. I'm not suing anyone who uses this flowerpot design, tho I might sue myself.....

[mandolooter]

oldwave maker...I love your fresh and sometimes humorous approach to building and hope to one day own a custom oval-holed A from ya when finances permit. I love the Flower pot, I'd say from 20' it wouldn't look like the Gibson's either. Nice job once again!!!!
Jeff

[mandoryan]

Very cool Bill! How is the sound with the mesquite back? I'm curious how that wood combination would affect the tone. Very tasteful and neat as always.

[Jim Hilburn]

Here's #29 ready to go to the spray booth.

[Darryl Wolfe]

Very nice Jim...I think you're ready to give the big boys a run from what I see.

[mandoryan]

Very nice Jim. What number is that one? You're definetely doing top notch work!

[Kent Barnes]

I finally got some quality "sawdust" time today. #Here's the back of Harlan #2. #This piece of maple is nicer that I first thought!
http://www.kentium.net/mandolin/mando2pics/back2.jpg

[Jim Hilburn]

After the warm reception I got for my blacktop, I've decided to attempt some other color statements that you don't see everyday. I decided to make a blonde with sky blue binding. Let me know how you like it.

[Darryl Wolfe]

I'll bite. It's 3M blue masking/striping tape right?

[Jim Hilburn]

busted!

[Kevin K]

Jim,
Will this one be a black top as well???

[Jim Hilburn]

No ,back to sunburst's for a while.

[Darryl Wolfe]

Jim, I've never bothered masking the binding. I guess that stuff works well/saves time? (or you wouldn't go to the trouble)

[Kevin K]

No ,back to sunburst's for a while.
[/QUOTE]

Shucks, hoping to see another black one soon.

[Jim Hilburn]

In '81 ,I sat in Nuggets shop and watched him go from an i.t.w. mandolin to the first coats of lacquer (back when he did lacquer) in about 8 hours. He taped off everything.
Now since I shot the above photo ,I got up this morning and the tape around the scroll had contracted and was on the wood ,so I just took it off the scroll.I try different things ,but it's easy to tape off the sides ,and not too hard to do the face on the big sweeping stretches. In the tight turns you have to stretch the tape to the contour, but it still has wrinkles and will get more bleed than the rest.
Now,I sprayed the color this morning ,and I still have to scrape up to the inside line on the whole thing even after taping.But thats mostly just to get a real sharp line and theres a lot less work than having to scrape stain off the whole thing. I'm always quoting Bob Bennedetto ,but he said he tapes what is easier than scraping and leaves the rest.

[Gavin Baird]

Jim,
I tried the auto body plastic tape with the same problems you describe. As I mentioned on an earlier post, I now use regular masking tape. You have to get the best quality. That is the one with the best adhesive and the thinest material. I then apply the tape to a vinyl drafting board cover and using a sharp scalpel blade, cut the tape into 1/16" wide strips for going around the scroll. To build up the width I overlap the next course. On the body I cut the tape to the desired width and apply using my magnifying glasses. To insure a fine line apply a very thin coating of lacquer to the edge you want defined. Once this is done the colour finish can be applied. When going to clear coating a very thin coat of lacquer is sprayed around the tape perimeter. Remove the tape touch up where necessary and continue clear coating. I believe the secret to good masking is a fresh cut edge on the tape and the correct width for doing curves..Since I use only wood bindings[Holly] this is the only way I have found that works well...G

[resonant68]

Finally got some lacquer on my mando!
My spray equipment is very low tech. I've got a little orange peel going on.But I can sand it back as I apply coats and the final polishing out will be fine.Hope to get some better equipment one day!

[resonant68]

You can see the orange peel good in this pic.
The same happened on my last two mandos,but polished out fine.

[Chris Baird]

Don't be afraid to experiment with you spray setup, even a cheap gun can usually produce a fair coat.

[sunburst]

RE taping bindings:
I only know one person who can mask bindings with tape faster than scraping them.
I was taught finish work by Kim Breedlove who told me: "don't bother trying to mask the bindings. I've tried that, and scraping them is much faster after you learn how".

When I finally got to quit working in the finish room at the company I used to work for, (after 6 years straight of finishing every instrument that came through http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif) ), I was replaced by Mark Dalton. He had been running an auto body shop and had worked there since he was in his early teens when it was his dad's shop. I showed him how to stain an instrument and clean the bindings, but he thought he could mask them faster and easier,....and he was right. He had so much experience with tape and so little with a scraper that it worked better for him.
I still scrape mine. After 6 years of doing it almost daily you can get pretty fast and accurate!

[Lee]

Here's the rear of a 2-pt oval hole built by Pavel Sucek. The lacquer has just finished drying.

[Lee]

And a frontal shot of the same

Well....i'm not very objective but, i love the organic vibe Mr. Sucek has presented with your mandolin. i can't wait to see the report on how this little Two point sounds. Congrats.

[Lee]

Thanks! Maybe we'll get some more photos once he's buffed out the lacquer. Somebody should be posting photos of his new 2-pt f-hole mando too.

[Dru Lee Parsec]

I just started mine. Here's the fretboard. I decided to use progressivly smaller abalone dots as i went up higher on the fretboard. I like the proportions better that way. Some of the fret dots I've seen look pretty crowded onthe higher frets.

http://www.brouelette.com/dulcimer/images/mando1.jpg

[Km1000seth]

Hey,

I noticed Jim and Sunburst both got to learn a bit from some well know luthiers, Ive been thinking bout going to school for lutherie but apprenticeship seems to be the better deal.
Does any body know some real good luthiers around North East Texas I could talk to?

Seth

[pathazzard]

After 2 weeks of having this one look like a bowling ball ,it's pretty exciting to see it with the shine.
Jim I saw your pix of that black topped beauty you did in '02'. Have you posted any pictures of the way you do that double black binding that shows on the top and sides? You and Jamie Weins do the best binding I've seen yet! -Pat Harrell

[daikon]

Thanks! Maybe we'll get some more photos once he's buffed out the lacquer. #Somebody should be posting photos of his new 2-pt f-hole mando too.
Here are some pics of my Pavel Sucek f-hole 2-point in progress.

Delivery is scheduled for next week. Can't wait.

[daikon]

Sucek two-point f-hole back

[Chris Baird]

Here is an Arches A drying in the sun. This is a new varnish recipe, I hope it dries.

[Skip Kelley]

Chris, thats a beautiful mandolin. Nice flame and I love the recurve in the back.

[Yonkle]

a month ago , a week ago Today....almost there! 3-15

[Magnus Geijer]

Geijer #2 getting closer. Man, this stuff is addictive.

[Keith Newell]

Ready to bind the top. This is a custom one for somebody that wanted a curl without the button on the end of the scroll.
Keith
http://newellmandolins.com

[Keith Newell]

The holes are to lighten it a bit. I use the thinned hide glue and gauze around the f holes, thats what the shinny stuff is.
Keith

[Jim Hilburn]

Here's my next one in the process of getting inlay.

[oldwave maker]

mo' ovalholes: rosewood, mahogany, quilted maple, mesquite, the rosewood and mahogany have nearly identical (4 pages of a bookmatch!) engelmann tops braced and voiced the same, as per customer request.

[MANNDOLINS]

This is the latest addition to the MANN clan. curly redwood tops, quilted mahogany backs and sides. one piece neck/neck block.

[ShaneJ]

oldwave, those look nice. Living in Texas, and in Abilene in particular (got to be the mesquite capital of the world), I've wondered if mesquite would sound any good as an instrument. How does it sound compared to the other woods you have there? It's certainly pretty wood.

[PCypert]

Hello fellow Abilener. What are you talking about mesquite in Abilene? http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif

Paul

[Jim Hilburn]

Hi, all you Abilene guys. I was born there, but moved out west when I was 8.
Here's what it looks like as the binding is going on.

[Jim Hilburn]

I like to do frets at the same time as the binding because it's something to do as the glue is drying.
I've bought a lot of the Stew-Mac specialty tools for fretting, but if you are interested in getting into using a press, be aware.. Stew-Mac sells this same press for $100. I got mine at Harborfreight for $20.

[bobz]

Like you Jim, I was able to purchase a press machine from a company here in the UK. It cost £18, a lot cheaper than StewMac. I have`nt used it yet. What radius do you apply to your fingerboards ? I was thinking of a 10" radius for mine.

[bobz]

Here`s a handy little tool I made to cut a binding line in the body scroll. The cutter is made from an old jigsaw blade which happened to be just the right thickness for the reverse binding I`m doing on one of my mandos. To mark for .090" binding, I add a .020" and .030" feeler gauge between the cutter and the body of the tool.

[bobz]

Here it is being used.

[bobz]

Here`s how I`m getting on with binding. I`m having to use a diffrent glue to what you use over there in the states. It`s called Bostik All Purpose, and it does the job but it`s really messy to work with. The sqeeze out does`nt wipe away with a tissue like Weld On, although I can wipe some off with a rag. It sticks and builds up on my fingers and I`m biting off glue from my fingers at the end of a glue up.

[bobz]

The other mando I`m making is getting a reverse binding.

Jim, What is that blue tubular thing on your workbench ?

[Jim Hilburn]

Nice work, bob.
The blue tube is the main cross piece of the Terrco duplicator. I remove the extensions that hold the router and guide when not in use so I have more bench space.

[boboshoes]

Here's my latest claro walnut,red spruce,with curly maple and ebony binding and one coat of shellac

[boboshoes]

Here's ashot of the side

[chris]

Nice!! Show us more.