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Km1000seth
Feb-18-2004, 8:05pm
I just finished sending off my order form for a siminoff. So i been lookin real close at my km1000 to try and figure out how certain things go together. anyway I started lookin at the scroll, and I'm tryin to figure out how in the heck do you rout out for the binding on the inside of the scroll.

Thanx
Seth http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mandosmiley.gif

Greenmando
Feb-18-2004, 8:33pm
You go as far as you can with the router than finish with a carving knife and chisel.

MandoViking
Feb-18-2004, 9:31pm
I made a miniature Purfling cutter tool out of a carpenter's pencil and an exacto knife blade screwed to it. You have to notch out about half of the end of the pencil up to about an inch from the end so that from the attached blade to the inside of the pencil [which extends about 1/2" further down than the end of the blade] is .090"- the width of the binding. So the pencil extention rides all the way around the scroll while the exacto blade is scoring the spruce top. Do the same on the back. Hope it wasn't too confusing. H. Bruun

crawdad
Feb-19-2004, 12:14am
I am in the middle of this very operation right now. I am using a 1/8th inch chisel, a heavy exacto knife and a mill file a little on the approach before the scroll turns at the bottom. I am finding this all to be very slow going and the biggest test of my patience so far. The spruce was not too bad but the back scroll, being hard maple, is really hard for me. Its coming along but I will be relieved when this surgery is accomplished. So far, I only cut myself once with the chisel, so I call that a good thing!

rmoss
Feb-19-2004, 12:44am
I rough route this area with my dremel tool leaving only a little hand work with a chisel and small file to smooth things out. usally takes under an hour for each side.

Yonkle
Feb-19-2004, 1:02am
I just finished my scroll a few days ago. You just dremel or router as far around as you can get, and the rest I used a razorblade to cut a line and a micro chisel and a dental bit in my dremel to finish the rest by hand. It takes a long time, the hardest part is right in the area where the two piece of binding meet the upper little circle. The scroll crease that runs part way down the body is cut with a gouge and sandpaper that part is fun. JD

crawdad
Feb-19-2004, 1:09am
rmoss--Do you Dremel the area before you actually carve the scroll "s" curve? I was looking at how much work doing it all after the fact is and I thought that a small router or Dremel would be a great way to do it before I got into the scroll shaping. If I had a good router template I could flip it over to do both plates. There would still be some hand work to do, but a lot less. Hey, these are the things you think about AFTER you've tried it one way...

rmoss
Feb-19-2004, 1:40am
Yes I a big part of the scroll is flat so I can use my dremel base. I don't use a template if you take off just a little at the time you can route around the button area perfect. the rest of the scroll usually takes a little more touch up work with the chisel and files.

rmoss
Feb-19-2004, 1:46am
I don't use a template for the routing I do it freehand. I do use a template for tracing out the curves on the scroll. Thought I better throw that in there.

crawdad
Feb-19-2004, 4:00am
rmoss--thanks for the reply. As I have been carving these difficult spaces and curves, I thought there was a better way to do it all, and I think your approach makes a lot of sense...for mando #2 anyway! There will still be some final carving and tweaking, but I think I could get cleaner and more accurate rabbets for the binding using this approach. This definitely goes into my keeper folder!

Jim Hilburn
Feb-19-2004, 9:09am
Here's a couple of ideas. one is right out of McRostie's video. Use a medium curved gouge that fits the curve of the binding. You can do larger sections with that than trying to chip away with a small straight chisel. to make the shelf , or bottom of the channel on the raised button section, you can draw it on, then use a flush cut saw, one thats just a free blade protruding from the handle, and cut the channel a good way around . You have to flex the end of the blade up to miss you carved scroll, but once you've made the cut,you have a place to chisel down to from the top.

Darryl Wolfe
Feb-19-2004, 10:50am
That's exacury how I do it Jim...keep that chisel sharp