Mandolin Bridge- Your Opinion please...

[empire]

My Bowl Back Mandolin buzzes when I play cos the strings are too low due to tired old bridge that is non-adjustable in height.

I'd like to be able to control the height with something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ADJUSTABLE-ROSEWOOD-MANDOLIN-BRIDGE-GOLD-HARDWARE-/190462378247?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c58714107

1) Is this a good replacement bridge?
2) Will this sit neatly on my Bowl back top?..or it thsi particular bridge meant for flaptop Mandolin?
3) What other bridge(s) should I consider?

[Bill Snyder]

That bridge is meant for a carved top mandolin and it will not fit the top of your mandolin as it is. You might be able to modify the base so that it would but even then my concern would be that it would be too tall even when screwed all the way down.

[Jim Garber]

That probably would not work. Is this a vintage bowlback or a newer one? Most bowlbacks have relatively shallow neck angles.

This would work better, but you would have to fit it to the top: http://elderly.com/accessories/items/MA5.htm

Or you could contact Dave Hynds (http://mandolinluthier.com/mandolin-bridges.htm) in France who makes custom bridges. Unless you were in france, tho you would still have to have it properly fitted to you mandolin.

I would go with something like his Poggeli bridge (http://mandolinluthier.com/Poggeli.htm) where you would also have some room to adjust the bone insert.

[empire]

That bridge is meant for a carved top mandolin and it will not fit the top of your mandolin as it is. You might be able to modify the base so that it would but even then my concern would be that it would be too tall even when screwed all the way down.

Thanks Bill. I think you are right. It will be too tall even at its lowest point.

[empire]

Jim...thanks. You are a Mando-Accumulator? Wow...how many Mandolins you have?

Mine is a Aria Pro (Japan) bowl back made in the 1970's. I guess it's a vintage design then?

[Jim Garber]

Jim...thanks. You are a Mando-Accumulator? Wow...how many Mandolins you have?

scary... I am not sure...

[EdHanrahan]

As a purely amateur proponent of $0, fully-reversible, "enlightenment-only" temporary fixes before plunging ahead, may I suggest Post-it Notes? The sticky paper (which actually IS processed wood fiber) may be layered as thick as you need to shim things like bridges and/or nuts before deciding on a more permanent solution.

Hope it helps!

[Big Joe]

You can add a bit of material to the bottom of the bridge you have possibly to get a bit more height. Of course, assuming the bridge overall is in good shape. Another option is having one made that will be a bit taller. You can get nice clean new saddle slots that way and that may be a good option as well. Either of those would be no more problematic than trying to fit a bridge that is not designed for your mandolin to it.

[Jim Garber]

I used some iron-on veneer (http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xlb/R-100585395/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053) I got at Home depot. I used 2 layers but it sort of depends on how high it needs to be. I ironed on each layer separately and, since it was an ebony bridge, darkened it with a Sharpie pen. Seemed to work fine and the veneer kept the curve of the bridge fine. I imagine that if you used multiple layers you might have to refit the bridge.

[empire]

As a purely amateur proponent of $0, fully-reversible, "enlightenment-only" temporary fixes before plunging ahead, may I suggest Post-it Notes? The sticky paper (which actually IS processed wood fiber) may be layered as thick as you need to shim things like bridges and/or nuts before deciding on a more permanent solution.

Hope it helps!

Ed...hey...that is a very good advise! Thanks. I will try it.

[empire]

You can add a bit of material to the bottom of the bridge you have possibly to get a bit more height. Of course, assuming the bridge overall is in good shape. Another option is having one made that will be a bit taller. You can get nice clean new saddle slots that way and that may be a good option as well. Either of those would be no more problematic than trying to fit a bridge that is not designed for your mandolin to it.

Thanks Big Joe. My...the people in this forum sure are a helpful bunch :):mandosmiley:

[empire]

I used some iron-on veneer (http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xlb/R-100585395/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053) I got at Home depot. I used 2 layers but it sort of depends on how high it needs to be. I ironed on each layer separately and, since it was an ebony bridge, darkened it with a Sharpie pen. Seemed to work fine and the veneer kept the curve of the bridge fine. I imagine that if you used multiple layers you might have to refit the bridge.

Jim...if you are not aware...I am in Malaysia. There are some things we dont have here that you have over there..and vice versa. Thanks for the input and advise! :)

[mandroid]

Malaysia has tropical hardwoods? and you should be able to find a strip of veneer,
lay some beneath the bridge ,
if too thick , action too high, glue the veneer to the base of the bridge and sand the veneer thinner.
sandpaper face up on a flat surface, is the adjustment tool
a rubber cement for paper will be a bond that would hold as well as the glue on postIt notes
if the paper shim technique appeals to you, more..

[empire]

Malaysia has tropical hardwoods? and you should be able to find a strip of veneer,
lay some beneath the bridge ,
if too thick , action too high, glue the veneer to the base of the bridge and sand the veneer thinner.

Thanks Mandroid:)