View Full Version : Ozark 2001 'portuguese' mandolin
fender3491
Jun-22-2010, 1:13pm
Hello,
I'm a classical guitarist hoping to learn classical music on the mandolin, and I have seen this cheap mandolin on ebay which i am considering. I realise it is cheap and therefore won't be great quality, but for beginner etc i was wondering how good it is?
Thanks for your time.
fender3491
fender3491
Jun-22-2010, 1:19pm
Ooops forgot to link...
http://www.fretmusic.co.uk/ozark-2001-portuguese-style-mandolin-c-538-p-1-pr-16908.html
Martin Jonas
Jun-22-2010, 6:44pm
These are made in Romania by Hora and sold under a fairly wide variety of names (and with a variety of designs of scratchplate) -- most commonly discussed here on the Cafe in their "Troubadour"-branded incarnation. The name "Portuguese" is a bit of a mis-nomer, as the connection to actual Portuguese instruments is remote. This style of mandolins was introduced in the 1920s in Germany, and was called "Portuguese" because they looked a bit more like Fado gitarras that a bowlback mandolin does.
The Hora (Ozark) mandolins I've seen are pretty good for the money, and they are solid-wood. However, they urgently need a setup (and ideally a new bridge fitted) to reach their full potential. The stock bridge is junk and should be replace for an ebony/bone compensated one. As you are an experienced guitar player, you may well be able to deal with those issues yourself, in which case I'd say go for it.
Martin
fender3491
Jun-23-2010, 1:59pm
Thanks a lot for your reply Martin, you've told me everything I wanted to know! Cheers!
Very old thread, I know...but since I've just bought one of these mandolins, and the bridge actually dips down in the middle so the strings aren't all in the same plane, and the feet of the bridge don't sit completely flat on the soundboard, I'm wondering if I should ask the retailer to find me a better bridge rather than a replacement for the original? If so, what kind of bridge should I look for? Would one of these be OK http://www.touchstonetonewoods.co.uk/products/mandolin-ukulele-105/mandolin-bridge-flat-top-1461.aspx ?
I've already asked the shop to replace the original strings with what I believe are better ones (d'addario J74) which I've purchased myself since they didn't carry any!
Martin Jonas
Jan-29-2013, 3:03pm
That one should work, and probably better than the original. However, you may prefer an ebony flattop bridge with compensated bone saddle, such as these made by Dave Hynds:
Link (http://www.mandolinluthier.com/modern.htm)
Any replacement bridge will need to be fitted to the top, which probably involves planing about half the height of the bridge blank off (Dave's bridge blanks are very tall to fit the widest possible range of instruments).
Regarding strings, I would strongly recommend J62 strings rather than J74, which are way too heavy for this mandolin.
Good luck!
Martin
That one should work, and probably better than the original. However, you may prefer an ebony flattop bridge with compensated bone saddle, such as these made by Dave Hynds:
Link (http://www.mandolinluthier.com/modern.htm)
Any replacement bridge will need to be fitted to the top, which probably involves planing about half the height of the bridge blank off (Dave's bridge blanks are very tall to fit the widest possible range of instruments).
Regarding strings, I would strongly recommend J62 strings rather than J74, which are way too heavy for this mandolin.
Good luck!
Martin
Thanks for the link. But I don't understand these "compensated" bridges ...what's the point of that design?
Annoying about the strings, since I've already purchased the J74s (actually on the recommendation of a Scottish luthier) In what way would you think them "way too heavy"? What would be the effect of putting them on?
Martin Jonas
Jan-29-2013, 3:48pm
The purpose of compensated bridges is to adjust the string length for the fact that strings of different gauge stretch to a different extent when you press them down on the frets. Therefore the correct bridge position is slightly different for each string. If you have a straight uncompensated bridge, you have to live with less accurate intonation.
J74 are very good strings, but more appropriate for an archtop (carved) mandolin which will be more resonant with higher string tension. On a fairly lightly built flattop like the Hora, that amount of string tension is likely to make the mandolin less responsive and with a somewhat strangled tone, as well as unnecessarily difficult to play because of the higher finger pressure needed during fretting.
Martin
Thanks Martin. I'm beginning to understand, I think. The original bridge is at a slight angle - is this some kind of compromise "compensation"? But you're saying that it's less about the length of the string, as the amount of stretch when they're played?
If the J74s aren't such a good idea [and I was only following the advice of another forum member (in a private exchange)] then I guess I could see if I can swap them...bought them on Amazon, so it should be possible to exchange them for the lighter strings. Good job I haven't been able to get back to the shop yet to have new strings fitted.
Dusepo
Feb-01-2013, 4:29pm
I own one of these (mine was built in 2007 in the same factory) and I'd certainly reccomend it for a begginner. :)
Finally got back to the music shop and had them fit D'addario J62s (Amazon did a straight swap with refund!), and they replaced the bridge, as it happens with a solid bridge like the one Iwas asking above. It seems OK.
I might experimanet with an even better bridge, as advised by Martin, at a later date - through this and the UK mandolin forum, I've found someone who will make me one if required.
So, with an improved set-up, and knowing a lot more than I did when I bought the mandolin about three weeks ago, thanks to this Forum, I can get on with learnng how to play it!
I own one of these (mine was built in 2007 in the same factory) and I'd certainly reccomend it for a begginner. :)
That's good to know. Thanks!