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Hotwing
Mar-12-2010, 11:20pm
Hello everyone,

I'm interested in getting my first mandolin to play folk and bluegrass music.

I've been reading other posts on the forum about an affordable mandolin to get started with. Kentucky appears to be the company of choice for quality mandolins at relatively low price points. I am currently considering two Kentucky models that seem to be very similar: the KM-380S and the KM-250 (http://www.folkmusician.com/Kentucky-Artist-A-Model-Mandolin/productinfo/KM%2D380S/ , http://www.folkmusician.com/Kentucky-KM-250-Mandolin/productinfo/KM%2D250/). I am hoping to get some informed opinions.

The only difference that I can identify is the "hand carved" front and back on the KM-250 model. I like the finish on the KM-380S better but I am more interested in the better sounding instrument.

Also, has anyone had any experience with ordering from folkmusician.com?

Thanks for the advice in advance.

rgray
Mar-13-2010, 5:49am
I see two other potential differences - the 250 has a radiused fingerboard and a bone nut. But both are the same price, both at Folkmusician and the manufacturer's price (Saga Music). I have a feeling that the concept of "better sounding" between these two will be the listener's personal choice and getting your hands on both before purchasing will be your best option. Folkmusician has a good reputation here on the Cafe and Robert from there is a frequent contributor to the forum. You may just want to call and ask some questions about sound and construction differences. Question - a decision between such similar instruments seems difficult. Have you considered the Kentucky 505?

Hotwing
Mar-14-2010, 10:08pm
Thanks for the input Bob. I have considered the KM-505. Again, I didn't see much of a difference between it and the KM-250 and KM-380S so I dismissed it since it was significantly more expensive. Why would you suggest it over the other two models?

Eric F.
Mar-15-2010, 8:21pm
The KM-505 is the new "It Girl" of the cafe. If you search the forum threads on it, you'll notice that a number of people who play instruments that cost several times more are impressed with the KM-505. I'm sure Robert at folkmusician.com or Dennis at The Mandolin Store will be happy to tell you what's different about it, but in my opinion it's worth every cent it costs more than the 380 and 250. The 505 is probably the best value in a carved-top mandolin right now.

Earl Gamage
Mar-15-2010, 9:31pm
I have the 380S. It is a very good mandolin. I have played a 505 next to it and I thought my 380S sounded better. The 505 was brand new and I had already been able to tell my 380 had opened up compared to when it was new.

There don't appear to be many differences between the 380 and 505. Bone nut on the 505, not sure on the 380 and radius fingerboard on the 505. Maybe other differences someone more expert might notice.

I think you would be happy with a 380. I like mine a lot.

Hotwing
Mar-16-2010, 8:06am
Eric, I think you're analogy of the "It Girl" is fitting... I did notice a lot of chatter on the forum about the 505. I will take your advice and call folkmuscian.com to discuss the options.

Earl, thanks for the input. It's nice to hear from a happy owner of a 380S. Since I'm a guitar player I'm thinking that I would prefer a flat fingerboard as opposed to a radius fingerboard anyway. I'm planning a visit to a music store so I can try both.

rgray
Mar-16-2010, 9:21am
Thanks for the input Bob. I have considered the KM-505. Again, I didn't see much of a difference between it and the KM-250 and KM-380S so I dismissed it since it was significantly more expensive. Why would you suggest it over the other two models?

My decision to get a 505 was based on 3 different ideas (not one of which was listening because I did not have access to one):
1) the "It Girl" factor cited by Eric (not just to have "It", but I was receptive of advice given to a newbie),
2) a comparision of features, both higher-end and what I just liked (ebony vs. rosewood, hand-carved, "select" maple, bone nut, hardware type/finish, wood finish, inlay) and,
3) I could afford the 505.

I know I like it and, since I have had it, I haven't found another mandolin in any store I like as much, probably due to a great setup and just accustomed to its sound.

Capt. E
Mar-16-2010, 9:40am
Keep in mind that on most radius'd fretboards the curve is not terribly great. The difference between most of them and a flat can be on the subtle side. To me width of the fretboard is more important than the contour, though both have their effects.

When first going from guitar to mandolin you may think the fretboard is impossibly narrow, but the fingering techiniques and angles are rather different. I find the mandolin to be easier.

I have played the Kentucky 505 and the 1000 as well which has a flat fingerboard. Both are perhaps the best available is their respective price-points.

Cheryl Watson
Mar-16-2010, 10:02am
I've played that specific "The Loar" in the classifieds. It sounds good, plays easily and looks pretty good too. Nice beginner mandolin.

Hotwing
Mar-17-2010, 7:25am
Bob, thanks for your candid response on the reasons you picked the KM505. I can definitely relate to being receptive to advice of others due to being a newbie.

Capt. E, thanks for the clarification on the radiused fingerboard and advice on transitioning from guitar to mandolin.

I still haven't made a decision and I still need to call folkmusician.com to ask some more questions. I'm getting super excited about my first mandolin!

Randy Smith
Mar-17-2010, 9:18am
Hotwing,

Both the 380 and the 505 are joined at the 15th fret (the 250 is joined at the 14th). The 15th is more common though I'll let others tell you what difference, if any, that might make in your playing. Also ask if the 505 truss rod (2-screw) is an improvement over the 380's truss rod. Any difference might not matter if the mandolin's truss rod never needs to be adjusted--but just learning about any possible difference might be something to find out.
You've gotten lots of good advice already from the other posts. I think either a flat or a radiiused neck will work for you since when you start playing you'll be working on getting used to the narrower mandolin neck-but you'll do that fairly easily anyway. If you have a chance to play either the 380 or the 505, do that. But ask questions. Ask the simple question why the 505 is more expensive--you might find out something none of us have noticed. One thing that looks very promising--folk musician gives a detailed description of what it does to setup each mandolin, so I think you'd be dealing with a good place if you buy from them.
Post a message letting everyone know what you finally get!

Cheers,

Randy S.