What constitites a damage indent

[jk245]

Under normal use a finish might show an indent, say 1/2 mm deep x 3-5 mm around. If there is no break in the finish, would a maker consider such a 'flaw' to be acceptable. Or, would makers consider such a dent to be un- acceptable? ie: is the goal to release only a mirror bright finish?

I realize, like every other manufactured product, that the quality issue is related to the price range of the instrument.
I am not considering so called 'distressed' models.

[sunburst]

I'm not sure I understand the question, but if it's something like; 'how much of a defect is acceptable on a new mandolin', it depends on the maker, the type of finish, where the imperfection is on the mandolin, and so forth.

There is no perfect finish, so we all have to draw a line somewhere as to what is 'good enough' and what is not. It varies considerably from builder to builder depending on experience, ability, eye sight, age, and simply the builders choice as to what is or is not good enough.

[Stephen Perry]

Some customers accept nothing but crystal like perfection even on inexpensive instruments. Others like distressed, whether intentionally or otherwise, or don't care. It's really a buyer's choice, not a builder's choice.

"My soft, mellow varnish finish isn't super glossy shiny like the cheap mandolins and I can see buffing marks. It even looks as if a person built this. It's all wrong."

Gentle education is in order for those folks. Oddly, NJ seems to specialize in them!

[Hans]

At 1/2mm x 3-5mm it's a bit large, but as John said a lot of factors come into play. Price is a consideration, you won't get a lot of high finish quality on a 1K instrument. It'll probably be thick and shiny though. On high quality instruments a flaw that large is not likely.
Type of finish also makes a difference. Lacquer is more forgiving than varnish, and flaws can be drop filled easily. Varnish shrinks so much more than lacquer over time and so do the drop fills, so flaws show up in time.
A lot depends on the drying time of the finish before final leveling and buffing or the French polish topcoats, and that in turn has a lot to do with the final thickness of the finish. A finish that is sanded and buffed right after finishing can be made thinner than one that dries for a month before leveling. The former dries and shrinks after the instrument is completed and minor flaws or "maker's marks" will show up in time as the finish shrinks and will look more like a violin finish with the grain quite visible. The latter shrinks before leveling and therefor must have more finish to accomplish the leveling and buffing process and ends up more like a car finish or a piece of glass.
My personal preference is to make the finish as thin as possible and get the instrument playing as soon as possible. I've seen flaws and French polish "swirl marks" in some of the finest mandolins. Overall look of the instrument is important, but most important are the tonal qualities. Every builder has his or her own "look".

[MikeEdgerton]

....Oddly, NJ seems to specialize in them!
There's nothing odd about it http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

fuhgetaboutit.